Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 16, 1999 08:12pm | #1

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   Billy,

   You have to replace the glass. What has happened here is that the seal that holds the gas or vacuum between the two panes of glass, has failed, therefore allowing air moisture to enter the space between the panes. With that air, came moisture/humidity. That is why you are seeing the condenstion inside the windows.

   Pete Draganic

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 16, 1999 09:04pm | #2

   *And to add to Pete's reply, if the windows are new you should look for your warranty information.Greg

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   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 05:12am | #3

   *Billy,You might find this thread from the archives interesting (not necessarily helpful, but interesting). It might not seem to be concerned with your problem at first, but as you read down, there is considerable discussion about the failure of double pane windows. Anderson WindowsRich Beckman

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 07:20am | #4

   *billy, definately check warranty info. you need to know when windows were purchased. sometimes there's a code no. on the dividing strip between the glass. you should be able to pick up a pair of no.s like 92 or 88. it might be in the y2k system. better quick make a claim, store water and shoot a deer. best of luck to ya.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 08:00am | #5

   *Rich - Thanks for the link. I recently have started becoming concerned about putting double pane windows in my jobs. We used to build sunrooms with double and triple glass and recently replaced several pieces we installed about five years ago. It got me thinking about regular windows, too. I'm about to start building a timber frame addition, and it bothers me to think about a structure that should last hundreds of years with windows that probably will need to be replaced after 20. Not to mention we are in the middle of rehabbing a house full of 90 year old windows that work great except for a little rot and too much paint. Fortunately we use Kolbe & Kolbe windows and they offer a standard single pane window with an integral interior storm that works very well. I think I'm going to start using them a lot more.

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 08:06am | #6

   *How does the price of the K & K single pane with storm compare to the standard K & K insulated windows?Rich Beckman

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   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 08:17am | #7

   *Rich - I'm not sure I have a side-by-side price comparison, but I think the single pane w/storm is cheaper. Not a huge amount, but maybe $50-100 a window. I might be mistaken. The single pane is nice, though; it is true divided lite with either 7/8" or 1-1/8" muntins, and the storm (which they call an RDG) is rabbeted into the interior side of the sash. It is fairly unobtrusive and eliminates having to install the storms seasonally. We have probably installed an equal number of each type, but I think in the future if a client wants insulated glass I am going to advise them of the possible limitations on its life span.

4. 
   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 06:48pm | #8

   *Thanks. Sounds like it is worth looking into.Rich Beckman

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   Guest_ | Nov 17, 1999 08:49pm | #9

   *I was director of maintenance for a hotel with approximately 280 double pane windos. Building was about 8 years old. I was replacing about 6 windows each year for this problem. Not bad. I have no idea who the mfr. was.

6. 
   Guest_ | Nov 18, 1999 03:27am | #10

   *Interesting -- I've been buying essentially the same product from Marvin, but they put the "energy panel" on the outside. R-value is the same as, or slightly more than, double-pane. Real muntins, IMHO, look great. I've only seen one instance of fogging, and it was a casement we left open in the rain... I need to look at K&K some more.

7. 
   Guest_ | Nov 18, 1999 03:41am | #11

   *Andrew - We have seen some isolated instances of condensation appearing between the energy panel and the window glass... but rare and temporary. I think a minor problem compared to permanently fogged insulated glass if it fails... which it inevitably will. Another possible problem is that in some windows (K & K calls them Simulite), the insulated glass is a one piece unit with dividers inside it. If it fails the only recourse would be to replace the sash. The question I ask myself about anything I install... would I put this in my house? At this point I think I would say no to insulated glass.

8. 
   Guest_ | Nov 18, 1999 04:16am | #12

   *WoW ! I read the post about the AndersenArchives and that certainly hasn't been my experience. Here's what they spec around here.Tract houses: new construction vinyl with welded corners.Semi Custom and Remodeling: Andersen, sometimes Pella.Architectural Specs for custom homes: Pozzi and MarvinNow I've used Andersen, Pella, Marvin, Vetter, Crestline, Hurd, Weathershield, Peachtree, and Brosco, some god , some so-so, and some should be burned at the stake.My favorite window is Hurd, great window, real energy saving, good maintenance features. But when it comes to backing me up with warranties and service no one holds a candle to Andersen. I've had them deliver new sash for sliding doors 20 years old, NO CHARGE. They have their field reps that come out on warranty calls, They have repair kits for their vinyl. They have vinyl exterior and clear wood interior (double -hung). I can get factory finish interior in white. Their test data backs them and me up in energy claims (the new fenestration test results finally take a lot of the mumbo jumbo out of comparing one to another).I like the way they stand up to the elements, in this salt air enviornment with lots of wind, we can install Andersens, add the trim details we want to the exterior and interior and get great results that we don't have to come back and replace in three years.Yes, we have to be careful that the jambs don't pinch the sides of the units, but so does any mfr. that has a good tight window. My first recomendation to my customers for windows is Andersen vinyl clad double hungs and casements, and their Frenchwood hinged doors arn't bad either, just a little pricey. If they are looking for an architectural repro. with a higher budget, I'll probably steer them to a local window supplier like Horner millwork, they use a Hurd sash with custom cedar frame and trim, called their Nantucket Cedar series.In terms of energy conservation (don't you have to comply with the energy code ?) I don't see how you can use anything except insulated glass units, energy panels inside or out just don't get close to what a modern High Performance glazing system can provide.We have a 6000 degree day winter and a wind off the ocean that will test any flashing system you've got, so they have to perform.If you want to find out about windows ask the mfr. if they warrant their product for installation on the seashore. A lot of them DON'T !Next week we'll discuss what to say when your customer wants to install an exterior door WITHOUT a storm door . Stay tuned.

9. 
   Guest_ | Nov 20, 1999 05:16am | #13

   *I agree with Mike in regard to Anderson's warranty response.Is the question actually, "Who is fabricating the glazing units?"

2. 
   Billy_Bussey | Jan 04, 2000 11:36pm | #14

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   We have double pane insulated windows in our home. Moisture has started building up in between the panes. Is there a simple way to take care of this?