I’m planning a renovation that includes the master bedroom. I have yappy dogs and traffic on the front and boat noise on the back. What can I do (including the windows) to block as much sound as possible?
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google for soundproofing to lead to other sites with extensive info.
total is expensive to do - involves special materials and design.
Need to include mass to absorb sound and soft surfaces tro baffle sound plus design to isolate sound from transmittion.
Use dense fibreglss insulation - or better yet, spray foam in walls and ceiling
Triple glazed windows
furr out with strapping under sheet rock or plaster. Double layuer the sheet rock.
Soft surfaces such as carpet do more to prevent your noise from leaking out than outside noise getting in but can help some.
vegetaion outside to baffle noises before getting to the house.
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What you are trying to achieve is a higher decible (Db) rating for your bedroom walls. For an example normal conversation is around 20 Dbs, 2 people arguing with each other is around 45 Dbs. I could easily build a 25 Db wall that could stop me from hearing normal conversation but it would cost me a heck of alot more money to build a 50 Db wall to stop the sound of 2 people yelling.
Sound does not only transfer through walls, it also transfers itself through floors, ceilings, and it sneaks in like water through holes, gaps and elecrical boxes. Windows and doors are the worst for sound transfer, putting a window or door in a high Db wall is like wearing a down filled jacket and leaving the zipper open. To lessen sound transmission, you have to think about the whole package.
You can obtain a reasonably cost effective Db rating by doubling the drywall ( 2 layers) on walls and ceilings. Use narrow windows. Triple glazing in windows may help. Use acoustical caulking to seal the gap where the wall meets the floor and latex caulking around electrical boxes (less messy). Insulate between the joists under the floor and use a heavier underlay under carpet.
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While making it completely soundproof is rather difficult and would require special materials, using logic in your design at the beginning of construction can help a lot. one thing you can do is minimize openings on the wall that you want the sound blocked from. That would include windowss, doors, outlets, etc. Don't put outlet openings back-to-back in the same wall cavity. Use different wall cavities for each outlet opening.
Carefully choose the location of you closets in the room. This can do wonders for sound transmission and if done in the plannig stage, doesn't cost anything. Also try to keep plumbing out of any wall that you're trying to soundproof including plumbing for heat and any ductwork. Another thing in regards to any ducts entering the room, don't give them a straight run in. Try and design the ducting similar to a sink trap so that sound would be "trapped" before going in the room. Also install larger diameter ducts so more air can flow slower thus reducing sound.
From a construction standpoint, an easy method that helps a little is to cut a split in the middle of a 2x4 with a circular saw. stay about 4 inches from either end and don't use them in a bearing wall. Another method would be to stagger 2x4s 12"oc on 2x6 plates. what you have is a 24"oc nailing wall for the inside drywall and a 24"oc nailing wall for the sheathing. you can then run insulation unbroken between the staggered studs. Ultimately, you can build two complete walls back-to-back much like they do in super insulated construction.
Floors and ceilings present a different problem. Block off any openings to the source of the noise. That would include solid blocking above the wall frame, between the roof rafters at the outside soffitts besides just covering the soffitts with trim or plywood. Stiffening the ceiling with larger beams and doubling the drywall can help as well. Installing drywall on resilient channels helps isolate the ceiling and helps to keep it from transmitting noise.
For the floor there really is nothing you can retrofit other than carpeting to reduce sound transmission. Some have tried homasote as an underlayment under carpeting, but I'm not too crazy about it. If you're building for sound, step up the joist size (stiffening the structure) and install the subfloor using construction adhesive and screws. This will really stiffen the floor and make it more resistant to movement that can transmit sound.
Edited 5/14/2003 10:46:48 AM ET by nino
Landscaping is the most effective method to reduce traffic noise. Build some dirt berms (2-3' high is all you need) between the traffic noise and your house and talk with your local nursury about schrubs that are effective at absorbing noise.
Windows are all double-paned these days, that does a lot for noise. You can also buy a soundboard insulation at HD pretty inexpensively, just layer it on top of your standard insulation (the soundboard is about 1/2" thick). I've used this and it works quite well. Floors and ceilings transmit a lot of sound, do those as well.
The ultimate soundproofing is to use the above techniques (along with staggered block walls at irregular angles outside), and design the room in something other than the standard square box shape. Sound bounces off of things, if you use irregular angles it gets dissipated.
If you are doing and extensive remodel, striping the drywall and/or removing the studs, the double wall and all of its details is the answer. But, if your trying to get a significant noise reduction for little expense and effort, 5/8" drywall on one side, on both sides if possible, of the offending wall/walls provides surprisingly significant results.
Based on my original thinking and with the input I've gotten here, this is what I'm thinking...... The room has only one wall with windows, unfortunately, they face one of the noise sources. The drywall will be stripped back providing a fresh start. So, I think I'll fir the 2X4 walls out to accept more (2X6) insulation. I'll double the drywall. Pella says their hurricane glazing has the lowest sound transmission in their line, so I'll use them for windows. I'll also insulate the floor cavity below. Thoughts?......
Sounds like a good plan. I would think dense pack cellulose or spray foam insulation would dampen sound better then fiberglass (just a guess, don't take my word for it, but I'd consider both).
You may want to do a search here on Pella windows. I know nothing about them other then to remember they've been called absolute garbage, waste of money, crap, ect. many times in several discussions I've seen by many different people here.
May have even seen a positive comment about them once, but I'm not sure of that.
I'm not fond of Pellas either, but the rest of the house has them and I'm a believer that mis-matched windows is a dead giveaway in a remodel. Since this rooms is well seperated from the rest of the house, maybe I could get away with it. Any opinions on favorite windows; especially where sound dampening is involved?
I'd agree on the mismatched window thing.
You'll have to ask others on the windows. I've only installed a few windows in my life. Some I bought used for a workshop I built, nice, but have no idea on brand. And some others have bought, again no idea on brand.
I was just passing on what I'd heard here. I'm sure there are many discussions on what windows to buy in the archives here.
Finding them is another thing.<G>
The spray foam will do wonders for you on sound insulation. My customers buy it for the increased thermal efficiency but I find that their loudest praises come in reference to how much it dampens noise.
I'm not fond of Pella windows either. .
Excellence is its own reward!