Can anyone point me to a good “how-to” article on interlacing a hardwood floor?
…I think “interlacing” is the right word… extending an existing hardwood floor into a new room, etc, without using a header board. You need to tear out every other board and slip in a longer one.
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Here you go:
http://quittintime.infopop.cc/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=Const&Number=4301&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hmmm.. I'm not finding what I need there.... This seems to provide a thread on repair, but I need something more comprehensive on interlacing. I am coming in from another room and need to deal the boards lining up.
NCLaquaer,
you should start at the point where the old floor ends. not the opposite end!
Whelp, there's a flooring forum...........whose name escapes right now. Someone might stop here with the info.
You wanted to know weaving a strip floor. I did the one in the link. You are going through a doorway and running into another room? The link might help explain on how to get out the "everyotherboard" and then the next part is easy. Straight line the existing floor through that door into the other room. Take a dryline and two helpers. One holds the line in the old room, the other gets in the other room and moves it back and forth at your direction till you line up the line at the doorway. Make a mark in the other room, chalk line it to the doorway board and lay the floor.
Or, use a straightline laser and run the beam through the doorway and make the mark.
Now, you can either take a chance and measure off that line to where you want to start that floor at a far wall..........lay up to that doorway and hope you meet your mark.
Or, you can start a board in that doorway run, spline the groove and run the floor both ways from there.
or did I just succeed in confusing you?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
floormasters.com
Thanks man.
Maybe you can help out this poster. You've no doubt done a slew of these.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
A search for "interlace" or "interlacing" yields nothing.
No, that helped some... I think what I should accept is the idea of laying the floor in two directions.
I am laying floor in two rooms. I will run the floor parallel to the doorway connecting the two rooms. Near the doorway, in the second room, is a perpendicular rounded section of existing hardwood flooring into which I want to interlace.
My past floor laying experience would have had me starting the floor in the first room at the opposite side from the doorway. My concern was that when I reach and then go past the doorway, I'll have no way to assure lining up with the existing floor. I consider back-measuring, but there is no way it would remain sufficiently accurate to interlace after a room's worth of variances.
Based on your suggestion, perhaps I should start by interlacing and then move in both direction from there.
I suspect I would just make a spline to put into the grove, or is this something I should purchase?
Yes, make up your own spline, remembering to not make it so big that it bottoms out in the other groove. Make it stick out as much as the tongue on the flooring. Glue it in to the groove.
That quittintime post should help you in understanding some steps in weaving the old with the new. It deals with toothing out the old floor which is what you do b/4 you run the new into it. Start at the old toothed out section and move away from it, ending at a wall.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin, that's an interesting baseboard on the floor you repaired. It looks very angular, lots of shadow lines. Perhaps its just the rectangular bead instead of the typical quarter round. Do you happen to have another shot from this old job or perhaps just describe it a bit? Is it three pieces? And BTW excellent matching of the wood, would never have guessed it wasn't like this all along.
eric
Splat, thanks for the complement.
The base is in a 1930's house in NW OH. It is 2 pc and a shoe if I remember correctly. The shoe was standard on high base around here. A close match is Bullnose stop/ about 1-1/4'' tall. The main (lower) part of the base has some slopes and angles, the top part starts with the sort of panel mld similar to # 465 in the M&M trim chart ( http://www.mouldingandmillwork.com/ ). I managed to salvage and pc together all that is up there by removing pc's/parts from the room and a couple-3 closets in the house. I replaced the top cap with either the number 465 or I modified the number 357 casing profile in the same Moulding and Millwork trims. The bottom base I guess could be replicated on a table saw with a tall fence and a steady hand.
Previously I had "salvaged" (robbed) the base from a closet in this room when I did there kitchen and we took out all the 60's teardrop trim.
I got lucky.
The scrap on this job you could put in the palm of your hand. A little (lot) of pc'ing and puttying and sanding made the multitude of joints disappear. They were very pleased.
They used some casing with the backband detail similar to the top cap on the base. Nice stuff, haven't really seen this style except in this house.
Here's the best I can do with a shot of the base.
View ImageA great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks, that's a lot of detail from a job a couple years back.
eric
Well, just don't ask me what I did yestdy.........
I had the trim chart in front of me and because I've worked there from day one of them purchasing the house, it is somewhat ingrained in my mind.
Pity you can't still find a whole lot of trim possibilities available......at least in NW Oh. There's only a small bit to choose from and I'm not finding too many folks that want to search out a match $.....
However, there's an old millwork 45 mi. south and if you want to pay the set up charge, they do still have some of the old knives used around here. Again, haven't found anyone willing to shell out the $'s.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
If you are close enough to Columbus, Village Millwork has a very low setup cost. They bought all the knives from somebody that went out of business, plus they will grind custom ones for about $45 an inch (I think that is the price). 614-291-1653
Thanks Bryan, I'm about 2hrs from the northside of Col. Would you happen to have an email address or link to a site if there is one?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I don't think Tim has a web site, but when he calls me back with my quote, I double check. But you could just call and ask him (Tim Fiske is the owner). It's just a two or three person operation, but Tim does it specifically to fill the void left for small special orders. The trick is they don't have all the existing knives cataloged yet. Sometimes it takes hunting, or they just cut a new one. I got lucky and he is doing a run for someone else of what I need 4' of!