still trying to make invisible splice in crown moulding. i usually stand work with back to fence and make 22.5 cut, i think that is better than compounded mitre. i debating weather a butt joint w/ biscuit and joining plate on back done on the bench is a better way.that may be good for short scabs but what about longer ones?i sometimes work in finished spaces where the saw is far away. the material is usually paint grade
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Often times I'll use a 30/30 cut.
A biscuit or sometimes two, depending on the size of the crown, to help register.
I have pre-glued to make long enough pieces, but I never found it to be worth the trouble, thus I don't use plates to span the splice anymore. I also so a lot of built-up crown, 7-9 pieces, and with the nailers fo the crown there's usually not room for a splice reinforcing plate to fit between the back of the crown and the nailer.
I make my splices the same way I make my cope cuts ...
upsidedownagainstthefence ... at a 45 ...
why bother with a new "detent"?
I tried one big crown job doing the biscuit and preglue deal ...
fought me more than it was worth.
I can get them just as tight ... if not tighter .... up there on the wall.
glue it and nail her off ... she ain't going no where.
paint grade .... pick the "point of entry" and just do it ...
stain grade ... a little grain matching goes a long way.
it's crown .... not exactly eye level stuff.
if it looks good from up on the ladder ...
..... it is!
hey Mongo ... you're a Collins guy ... U ever use that Bunny Plane?
looks kinda cool .... thinking stain grade crown ....
Jeff
Used to do 45 as well, but found that occasionally I'd get a little creep or sideslip in the joint. I do tend to snap crown in place tighter than your average bear, though.
Still, I agree with you in assembling as you go, right up on the wall. Works well for me.
Never used a bunny plane. Don't do much stain-grade, either. Most everything here in Colonial CT is painted.
Dam(n) Steelers!<g>
Almost every time the two pieces will move differently and the paint line will crack slightly, either pretty soon or sometime later. Butt joint with a biscuit is easiest to align, and some poly glue does an OK job of gluing endgrain to endgrain. Grab a couple different sizes of pipe scraps from the plumbers and wrap paper around them to sand the joint.
I believe that Gary Katz uses the biscuyit and back scab for stain grade prefinished pieces out west. We do mostly paint grade, cut and fit with glue at 30° and then let the painters hide it
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