Replies

1. 
   bd342 | Apr 30, 2003 02:21am | #1

   Is there anyway you could sketch it out with a full profile of what you have done ?

   I'm a little unclear on your total span and roof pitch.

2. 
   JohnSprung | Apr 30, 2003 02:27am | #2

   Yikes -- Pay somebody who knows what they're doing to look at this in person.  I very much doubt that you'll get any more specific advice than that.  There's just no way that plain text descriptions over the internet can transfer enough information for anybody to say what would be a safe and adequate fix.

   -- J.S.

3. 
   xMikeSmith | Apr 30, 2003 02:41am | #3

   john.. you lifted the roof peak back into line.. but what is going to keep it there..?

   it sound like you are going to install a cathedral ceiling.... this should require a structural ridge.. ..

   but really you're doing a trayed ceiling, right ?... i mean it slopes on the eaves.. but there's still a flat ceiling.. and you're going to but vertical ridge supports from the center of the new collar ties to support the ridge..... maybe...

   if the free portion of the bottom of the new rafters is sufficiently strong enough not to bend..and the fastening detail at the plate/rafter connection is not going to allow any movement....

   and the collar tie doesn't allo any deflection .. it might work ... might....

   but it seems like you could turn the roof/ceiling into a scissors trus and get a better job... i'd pay a structural engineer to design you a fix... it may be just what the doctor ordered

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   JohnCA07 | Apr 30, 2003 05:29am | #5

   I drew up the layout in hopes it will better explain my situation. I've attached the drawing in pdf and gif formats.

   I appreciate you assistance.-John

   PS. 1. Yes I'm in CA & no snow (nice detective work)2. The drawing is to scale but sorry no exact details I just wiped it out in Visio3. I believe the reason for the South walls movement was due to my removing the ceiling for several months. 

   Edited 4/29/2003 10:42:09 PM ET by john m

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Apr 30, 2003 01:21pm | #6

   should work.. have someone spec the connections and lumber sizesMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

4. 
   Piffin | Apr 30, 2003 05:24am | #4

   These guys are all right about having an experienced person scope it out on site.

   but a simplistic answer to what i think was your question is - "Yes Virginia, Rafter ties do keep houses from falling in on themselves."

   The amt your walls and ridge were moving in a short time, tells me that something more is going on here that we can't see. If you can take a series of digital photos, there might be more help.

   PS - Are you in California?

   Redwood rafters and obviously low load design indicates no snow load and west coast.

   Reason for Q is that seismic design criteria may apply to you - another reason for a qualified local person to assist.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   BossHog | Apr 30, 2003 01:52pm | #7

   I tend to be pretty danged conservative with design stuff. (Just ask anyone here) But I don't like your situation much.

   That seems like an awfully long span for 2X6 rafters. This may or may not work on paper depending on your loading requirements. But I still think they will sag considerably.

   The lumber you've added might help some. But you'd need some pretty substantial connections to make it all work.

   I honestly thing you need someone on site to look it over and come up with a recommendation.

   Nobody in the game of football should be called a genius. A genius is somebody like Norman Einstein. [Joe Theisman, former quarterback]

1. 
   FramerJay | Apr 30, 2003 02:12pm | #8

   Boss,

   It's not unusual to have 2x6 rafters over 30' long here in coastal Alabama, which has similar lack of snow loads and high wind requirements in place of seismic requirements. As long as some type of roof bracing is installed; i.e., purlins and or bridging, it would be adequate. Personally, I would use larger rafters however.

1. 
   JohnCA07 | Apr 30, 2003 05:54pm | #9

   Two additional notes I should add to my information:

   The drawing I posted did not include my intention to add upright and diagonal roof bracing.  (Sorry if that threw anyone)

   This ceiling system is installed along 24’ of the house run.  The rest of the house (14’) has the more standard 8’ flat ceiling.

   There is room for a ridgeback(s) as another option if necessary.  

    

   I’ve also recently read that rafter ties need to be bolted in place rather than nailed to achieve the greatest benefit.

   -John

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Apr 30, 2003 07:24pm | #10

   john....<<<<<

   There is room for a ridgeback(s) as another option if necessary.  >>>

    

    do you know if that is one of the traditional rhodesian ridgebacks.. or one of the new socially engineered zimbawe ridgebacks ?Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   GHR | Apr 30, 2003 07:29pm | #11

   Unless you can do the math, pay an engineer.

3. 
   booch | Apr 30, 2003 11:41pm | #12

   Bolts, nails whatever is used you gotta take into account what the fastener does to the rafter. The plates that rafter manufacturers use to fasten together the members have wonderful structural properties.

   I don't want to get you down on the project or disgusted with my suggestions but it may be time to step back for a moment. If this is your place, and you really care what it turns out like, then consider this plan. Get a cup of coffee and a jaunticed eye . Look over what you have done and consider it a sunk cost. (unrecoverable time & money) Then think about alternatives.

   1. You could rip off the roof salvage the rafter material, then replace the rafters with premade scissors rafters. You probably would be time ahead and certain of your result. Use the old materials as stock to make the ceiling match your drawing.

   2. Same as above, but get custom offset scissor rafters. That would make the room ceilings more as you are drawing.

   3. While you are at it consider a hip roof or some other roof line as long as you are raising it. Prebuilt truss work is inexpensive and really quick to install by comparison to your effort here.

   with all of the left over 2x6's you could build a deck.

   I only suggest it because I visualize punky pine sheeting for roof boards with multiple layers of roofing weighting down your structure. Sometimes a bigger mess is the quickest way to an easy solution. Best of luck.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

1. 
   JohnCA07 | May 01, 2003 02:40am | #13

   Sounds like a consensus to me.

   Thanks to all who replied for taking the time to assist

   -John