I’m in the process of replacing some really old, old old/nasty, nasty, nasty french doors.
It’s a older house (circa 1921) and I’ve measured the jack studs. To my dismay, the opening between the studs is 3/4 too small to fit in a standard set of Anderson French doors.
My options at this point:
1. Step up to a set of custom doors = $$$$
2. Get out my power planer and shave down the jack studs.
I’ve got a good sense of what the feedback will be but I’ll ask anyway.
As another piece of info, the house is balloon framed.
Thanks,
JNF
Replies
Seems pretty straight forward. The old jack studs are full 2", right? So you support the header with whatever works, remove the old jacks and replace them with new studs (1 1/2"). You gain one inch of opening.
PS: Assuming that the old studs are larger than today's standard in both dimensions, you'd be ripping a pair of new 2X6s down to fit the 4" dimension.
Edited 3/21/2007 2:52 am ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
I concur with Hudson Valley. Replace the jacks with something narrower. This may mean chewing into some lath and plaster but that's par for the course. Since you only need to gain a little bit, maybe you can get away with just replacing one stud, if the centerline is not critical. If this is an interior door (without an intergral threshold)can you order a standard size unit, knock down and rebuild the jamb, then shave the doors a hair? This approach would be trickier with an exterior unit.
Heck, you don't need jack studs anyway!
I'd do exactly what you suggest. Plane them down. Why temporarily support the header? Why replace them? Why monkey with it at all for 3/4"? Plane 3/8" off each of them.
I'd do exactly what you suggest. Plane them down. Why temporarily support the header? Why replace them? Why monkey with it at all for 3/4"? Plane 3/8" off each of them.>>
Good idea. So those are jack studs, right? Hand the man your jack plane. Don't worry about those old cut nails either. Don't mean jack.
We're not talking about my jack plane. We're talking about his jack plane. No way I'm lending him my plane, he might ruin it.
The reason I wasn't keen on replacing the jacks is that there is a good chance that everything is nailed to them. The shiplap sheathing on the exterior, the lath on the interior and god knows what else. Maybe I'm just unlucky, but every time I open up an old wall the problems seem to multiply. If I were doing it, I'd put on some safety goggles, put an old blade on my circular saw, keep the guard back and plane them with the edge of my blade. I'm sure I could take 3/8" off both sides in 20 minutes. Nails be damned.
Worst case, get out your grungiest wood chisels and have at it. If clearances allow, make a few shallow saw cuts across the face first.Be sure to leave yourself some wiggle room -- the thing's not apt to be square.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I understand what you're saying but that's why God invented the sawzall. Put a four inch metal blade in it and, after pulling all visible nails in the jack, start between the jack and the stud at the top, inside or out. Cutting both sides should free up the jack in about five minutes. If the ballon framing goes into the floor, he can use the sawzall to cut off the jack at floor level. Then it's an easy job to rip a 2X6 to fit.
Since I'm getting so descriptive, I'll add that supporting the header can be easily done with a short piece of 2X4 on the floor and another one, cut about 1/4" longer than the actual measurement between the header and the piece on the floor. Place them about one foot away from the jack that you're working on, until you've replaced it. If you want to be super careful, double up the standing 2X4 support.
Edited 3/21/2007 7:17 am ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
IMHO, Hudson Valley Carpenter gave you the best solution...pull the existing jacks and install slightly skinnier jacks in their place. Regular sized studs may very well work, but if not, take a little off each stud on the tablesaw before installing...3/8 difference on each stud should not cause you any significant structural loss.
Most times, I deal with custom made vinyl French Doors by Therma True..they have some excellent doors; believe it or not. But , and, please someone correct me if I'm wrong, I thought Anderson made a couple of different sizes...one to fit a 5FT opening, and another one made 4ft-8 ...to be used as a retrofit in those 5ft openings that are not quite 5ft ( like your situation.) And , I believe Anderson makes a few additional sizes larger than 5ft ( ie...5ft-6, ...6ft etc.).
Davo
Set your circular saw to 1/2" deep and make a cut across the stud every 1 1/2 ".
Chip out the little blocks inbetween the cuts. Very little disturbance to the building this way as in hammering and bumping leading to cracking things.
After reading the thread, I'd say your pretty well covered. I just want to add that I had a similar situation and used 5/4" p.t. decking for the new jacks. They are 1" actual and I needed the space.
Don't use PT decking for the jacks... the new stuff (ACQ) is corrosive and that presents too many problems.
One good way to shave them down is like others suggested about cutting to the desired depth across the grain with a circular saw. The sections between the cuts should knock out easily.
FYI, there is a good chance that the studs are NOT a full 2"X4" even though it is balloon framed.... depends more on the age of the home.
You can remove the entire jack stud, if need be, by cutting out the center with a circular saw. then pull the remaining outer faces into the opening, off of any nails that may exist. If you have diablo blades in you area, they cut well through nails and wood.
Then, you might even want to replace the jack studs with hardwood to account for the loss in dimension. Unless the home is very old, that jackstud is only 1.5"X3.5".
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
Edited 3/21/2007 9:14 am ET by PeteDraganic
Thanks for the heads up on the P.T. .... except,, now I'm worried about the ones I've already put in. What am I looking at,, corrosion on the fasteners? Think it will bleed through? Its been almost 2 years and I haven't heard anything, but I would think this would be something that wouldn't show up for quite a while.
Cheque cleared, moneys spent, say a prayer and hope?
I'm sorry... yes, fastener corrosion is what they say.
It is recommended that Stainless Steel fasteners be used. Some say that various galvanized fasteners are ok but others argue that point.
Being that your usage is contained in a dry enclosed wall, the problem may not be cultivated as well as if the situation were exposed to the elements which surely help the condition of corrosion along.
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
Thank you, I have said a prayer and we will never speak of this again.
LOL....
You are forgiven, my child.
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
ANDERS "E" N.... PULL THE JACKS THEY ARE NOT THE LYNCH PINS OF THE HOUSE. YOU CAN RE ATTACH THE SHEATING AND ANYTHING THAT WAS NAILED TO IT. HOW MUCH SPACE DO YOU HAVE BETWEEN THE JACKS ANYWAY??? (FEET/INCHES)