Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 06:33pm | #1

   *
   I have seen a very nice piece on laminating curved and tapered beams in the West System epoxy free magazine. Each lamination is tapered with a thickness planer and jig that hold the workpiece with a gentle curve in it. Go to http://www.westsystem.com for more info and to get a free subscription to Epoxyworks. Be warned - once you use the stuff, you will feel the need to use it everywhere, which is why I have spent about $250 on it in the last couple years...

   did

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 07:56pm | #2

   *Taunton has a "Best of FHB" book on roof framing with a chapter on pagoda roof framing that shows a technique for flaring the corners up. Let me know how it turns out if you do it as I'm considering a similar project.JonC

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 25, 2000 10:49pm | #3

   *I seem to remember an article here or there about this type of architecture. Check the FHB archives for a back issue and order it if it's there.It seems to me these "swept up" rafter tails are created by the addition of lumber rather than the sawing down of a rafter to leave the curved up end. I am sure this would be a rather simple project if you had a chance to look at what it takes and get that basisc understanding. (this is assuming you have constructional aptitude).Pete

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 2000 12:11am | #4

   *Pete is right. This was discussed here about a year or two ago. If I remember correctly the consensus at that time was to go and rent one of those portable band saws. Then cut the desired pattern in the end of your ceiling "joists".

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 26, 2000 06:37pm | #5

   *yup...I remember that thread too. My vote for the big beams was a bandsaw on casters. For upto 4x6 the PC Jigsaw does well...the blades are available thicker and longer for just that kind of animal. You may however want to stay well away from the lines and take the rest down with a file or rasp then sand to get to where you want to be. L

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 27, 2000 04:15am | #6

   *Several years ago I worked on a building with exposed rafter tails with an ogee we cut into each one (40 some total).I used a Bosch jigsaw and it cut the 2x 12's easily.If you are using more than 2x material it may be tougher. I agree with diddidit on the west system to. Great stuff. Skip

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 29, 2000 07:47am | #7

   *b TVMDCFinding a way to shape the beams is only the first problem to solve. The next is to preserve the end grain from dryrot and termite infestation. Picture opening a box of soda straws at the end. You will see a bunch of holes opening into long hollow tubes. The structure of the cellulose in wood is a microcosm of this image. In fact, it is these micro tubes that allow the tree to feed itself.Next, start looking around your city for buildings with large exposed ridge beams or rafter tails. Chances are you will find a bunch of them that are decayed from water wicking into the end grain allowing dry rot to start and then continue spreading into the tubular structure. You need to seal the end-grain with an epoxy primer and filler and then paint or stain the wood from there. It would be a shame to spend as much time as you seem to have in front fabricating your rafters only to have to start repair them in five years.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 30, 2000 10:45pm | #8

   *Thanks for the info. I remember reading about the West system years ago. I'll look into that!Karl

5. 
   Guest_ | Jul 30, 2000 10:48pm | #9

   *Thanks to all for the info, I have several ways to approach this project now. I am looking foreward to getting started!ThanksKarl