Kitchen cabinet backs and hanging strips
Most of what I have read about cabinets shows the back stapled on (not set in a rabbet) and the hanging strip on the inside of the cabinet. I don’t really care for either approach. My question is – can I have my cake an eat it too? Im envisioning setting the back in a 1/4 deep rabbet. No great mystery there. That leaves me with the hanging strip. Cant put it on outside unless I increase the depth of the rabbet to accommodate thickness of hanging strip. This scenario leaves me with a loss of depth but no hanging strip on the inside. Not really happy with that either. WIll probably comprimise and go with rabbet and strip on inside. But now I have birch case with poplar hanger. not to excited about that? Should I get birch and use that for hanger?
Chris
Replies
Build the backs out of 3/4" birch ply and you don't need a hanging strip
Sounds like you want to use an 1/8" back in a 1/4" rabbit.
Rip a strip of 1/8" same width as your hanging strip and add it to the back at the top of the cabinet, put your hanging strip inside.
Or use a 1/4" back.
We used to use 3/8" backs in a 1/2" rabbit and added the 1/8" shim as I described.
I agree with Redford -- make the backs out of something substantial, and you don't need hanger strips.
I don't like how heavy they end up for solo work (I compromise and use 1/2") But in a bigger shop, 3/4" is great, actually saving you time and money in the long run through more efficient use of material, and simpler stocking and storing.AitchKay
I use 1/4" backs installed in a 3/4"x3/8" dado. Then 1/2" ply screw strips. I then screw a 3" rip of 1/2" ply to the wall. The unit 'hangs' on the wall and I screw the cab into the studs.
Easy solo installation. Here is a link to some photoshttp://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=79773.378 Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
I agree that the 3/4 backs makes them heavy, and for solo installation work, it's a challenge.But I have this vision of a cabinet full of heirloom china -- stuff that can't be replaced because they don't make it anymore. Stuff that looks just like that set that was on Antiques Roadshow where the guy appraised it for a jillion dollars.And in this vision, the cabinet comes apart, and off of the wall.....As even more assurance. I've been known to put some pocket holes in the top and bottom panels -- and any fixed shelves -- with 3" screws going into the studs. At a customer's request, I once built and installed a cabinet that had a back panel that was a full sheet. With sides, top, bottom, shelves, and face frame, the thing weighed just about as much as my pickup truck. I built it as a kit, and assembled it while I installed it.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
About a year ago, I built 18 4x8 cabinets, 14 of them 2’ deep, for a local antique/specialty store. I added it up to about 6,000# of materials, 375# each for those 14 big ones.But that’s ‘cause I cheated, and used 1/2” backs to lighten them up.So I can relate to your Jumbo Cabinet story!AitchKay
I route a 1/4 inch rabbet 3/4 inch in from the back edge that the 1/4" back slides into. Then I rip 3" strips of 3/4" plywood that is joined with a simple glue and screw butt joint at the top and bottom on the back of the case, I also use one in the middle if it's a tall cabinet. You could angle the bottom of the top strip and create a french cleat . That would help you hang the upper cabinets.
A hanging strip (nailer) on the inside should be adequate but, yes it should match the rest of the exposed material. Plus, if you don't trust nails and glue, use screw pockets and and face frame screws.