Continuing on with our slow kitchen remodel…. What type of screws so I need for installing the kitchen cabinets? The cabinets are all wood construction — no MDF/no particle board – all wood. And, since we took the room down to the studs, we added 2×4 blocking within the walls so we would be able to mount the cabinets easily. The 2×4 blocking is at the top and bottom of where the cabinets will be installed. The cabinets are white painted cabinets, and since I live in humid Florida, I think I would like stainless steel screws, so there is no chance of rust 10 years from now. So, what type of screws? How long? What type of heads? Wood screws? Thanks so much for any suggestions.
Footsox
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GRK cabinet hanging screws. For me, there's no alternative.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/cabinet-hanging
GRK cabinet hanging screws. For me, there's no alternative.
Then why the link to McFeelys cabinet hanging screws?
woops! thought I was linking to GRKs.
McFeely's probably work fine but here's GRK http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/PHE_0_CAB_information.htm
John,What do you use for screwing cabinets together?Most people I've worked with use a 2-1/2" coarse drywall screw in the stiles, or a 1-1/4" coarse drywall into the sides in they're frameless.I just know there's something better.Sounds like a song lyric.Glenn
Anything but DW screws. I've even used some deckmates in a pinch. Trim head screws work good as well. Worst experience was some SS screws from Ace that had a very soft head and snapp3ed off just shy of flush. Latest experiment on a shop project taught me to not use Spax from HD (was looking for something reaily available w/out ordering on--line or waiting on my preferred yard to get them delivered).
Faceframe to Faceframe I use 2-1/2" GRK trimhead screws:http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/TRIM_0_information.htm
Wow. Those GRK screws make me drool. Thanks for the link.
I forgot to post that I also need advice on what screws to use to screw the face frames together. Any thoughts on those also? I am new to this and would also welcome advice on how to do the face frames. I believe I saw a special clamp somewhere, that clamps the face frames together and then you can drill a hole through the center of the clamp or something? And then I just countersink those? Is there some countersinking bit that makes it easier? Thanks for all your help. I am a little wet behind the ears.
Footsox
The clamp you are referring to is called a "pony clamp". I think they're a bit expensive. I have used them before. They seemed a little cumbersome to me, but since you don't know any other way, you might like them (??). I prefer hand screws (aka big 'ol wood clamps with the screw things in them) for hanging cabinets especially with framed cabinets (the kind you are describing). They're not always perfectly straight in the front because the wood frames bow and even crown sometimes depending on quality. Anyway, to each his own, but I can't imagine paying a bunch of money for those pony clamps if you don't intend on using them except for your one project. I am sure people will disagree with me on this - but again, everyone does things differently.
Whatever you decide - good luck! Make sure you don't say "close enough" too many times on level or plumb-ness (is that a word?). It'll bite ya. Also check the walls for humps and bows on the horizontal and pre-shim those areas so you're not sinking a cabinet in a hole you can't line the next one up with.
Sorry for the long post...have fun!No Coffee No Workee!
Actually, I think the clamp you are refering to.....or at least the one he is asking about....is the "Cabinet Claw", manufactured by Pony clamps.
I love them and use them in conjunction with typical pony clamps.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Oh yeah...duh.
No Coffee No Workee!
Edited 11/2/2008 8:37 am ET by Jed42
GRK had trimhead droolies tooeven in stainlesshttp://www.grkfasteners.com/en/TRIM_0_information.htm
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i use the torx bit green deck screws... i like the torx so no cam-out of a phillips... plus i had several 25lb buckets of them ( i have other stuff i could use also) they are a bit thicker than a drywall type screw...
as a side tip... mark on your wall where all cabinets fall and where you will screw em... then take your longest edge and place it down the wall to find the high & low spots.. hot glue all your shims in place FIRST... so all your mounting points are on the same plane... hang your first cabinet... get it right... predrill your face frame (if you have em) place your next unit and clamp the face frame and screw em together before you screw em to the wall... follow this for each cabinet and it'll go faster...
p
Thanks for those ideas Ponytl. I'm going to try that if I ever set another cabinet.
man... i'm use'n breaktime and FHB tips... my method is taken from an artical on production hanging of doors... same idea just use'n it for cabinets... ie: preshim'n ... i posted how i was use'n my laser to preshim the floors for a uniform line @ 34.5 inches above the highest point... i do the same on the floor hot glue or liquid nail all the shims (i'm work'n off already staind & sealed concrete floors) i have all the face frames predrilled (& countersunk) I'm spending right at 2 days per kitchen by the time i get all the cabinets ready after do my layout & design (no 2 kitchens have been the same so far) keeps it interesting... I'm projecting some cabinets and using a mixture of heights... the high ones are getting crown... the ones over the sinks are 6" off the back wall so i can get small can lights in the void... so i have to finish the bottoms there... not a huge amount of detail... but i haven't hung cabinets in years... now i have 21 kitchens worth plus several bars and morning kitchens and many of the walkin closets get cabinets... each one gets easier and i'm more getting better (not have'n to think as much...) but i add something different to each... blind corners or lazy susans or wine racks or appliance garages or extra trim... pretty fun have'n a huge inventory of cabinets and all the extras onsite to "pull from"
anyway i'm have'n fun... and still slower than i'd like to be... but the more of em i do... the less i'd trust anyone else to do it... (a huge character flaw)
P :)
Piffen screws, made in america. Fine american quality.
Edited 11/1/2008 10:09 am by brownbagg
screw U 2;)
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3
Use Piffin screws myself for most cabinets, got some holding up 500# loaded shelves in barn, no problem - sometimes use 3/8 lags for shelves holding more that one engine and tranny.
LOL, it's amazing what you rocket scientists get away with
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>screw U 2
;) <
have a particular GRK in mind or just a run-of-the-mill DW screw?
You can't beat the whole Fastcap system - http://www.fastcap.com/products.aspx?id=1408
And the powerhead screws it uses:
http://www.fastcap.com/products.aspx?id=250
View ImageView Image
Edited 11/2/2008 1:24 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/CAB_1_information.htm
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Well, I use cabinet screws to install cabinets. However, the kitchen i'm working on now used "Piffin" screws (drywall screws) to install the last.
I do use 2.5" coarse DW screws for the faces though.
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