Hi all,
I’ve built and painted a set of Kitchen cabinets before using a pre-cat CV from Sherwin Williams. It was great provided you have a decent place to spray where the dry spray doesn’t settle.
What I want to do now is spray my own cabinets in place in the kitchen. I always see the shows where people have a service come and do it and I want to know what they are spraying.
It doesn’t need to be perfect by any means. Its just a quick, cheap facelift for some old cabinets. I’ll be using a HVLP system. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Replies
I use SW pigmented conversion varnish on our painted projects. I tried SW SOLO, a fast drying latex that does not block. It worked out nice on a quick turn around trim project.
Might be worth a try.
Bruce
It's been several years, but I sprayed a kitchen on site with a product called Chem Aqua, a Sherman Williams waterborne lacquer. Probably not as tough as a real conversion varnish or catalyzed material, but it worked really well. They had a spectrometer and they were able to match color.
Thanks gents,So there is no secret magic bullet as I suspected. I liked the pigmented CV too but I found that if I had too many pieces in the booth at one time, the overspray/bounceback, would land on the stuff that had not dried yet and I would have a rough finish. As I said this project doesn't have to be perfect but I'm wondering how I'm going to keep this problem from being even worse when I'm spaying in a Kitchen instead of a spray booth. Ideas?
I'm hardly an expert... I just have my one experience of spraying a kitchen on site. I took the doors and drawers home to spray in a more controlled setting. Everything else took a lot of masking... it was very labor intensive. I used an HVLP set up which does a good job of not sending off clouds of lacquer, so the overspray was kept to a minimum. I ended up doing an extreme rub out anyway because I liked that result, but simple overspray can be rubbed out pretty easily without really 'cutting back' the finish to a dead flat and then building back sheen. Check out Abralon disks.
Sherwin Williams Pro Classic 100% Acrylic works great. I've gotten very good results using a very fine nap roller for carcases in-place, and shooting the doors outside. The doors are what you mainly see anyway. Inside corners are a PITA, but careful use of a spongue brush works. Beats draping a whole kitchen.