*
I’m in the process of designing the cabinets for our kitchen remodel. These will all be paint grade maple ply with poplar or soft maple face frames, and 1/2″ ply backs. The doors will be solid edge banded maple ply with a lacquer finish.
I need to know if a gloss or semi-gloss latex paint would hold up well for this project. I’ve built several of these cabs for other parts of the house and used flat to paint the interiors and exteriors to match the surrounding walls.
I plan on spraying with my airless sprayer so I would rather use water based than solvent based material.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Fine Homebuilding's editorial director has some fun news to share.
Featured Video
How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
T. -- When I moved into my house four years ago I faced the problem of covering up the pink paint job on a bathroom vanity and bought a gallon of Cabinet and Vanity paint at the local Lowes. I don't remember the maker but it's "Best" or something like that, I'll check tonite if you want.
Although I ended up stripping and staining the vanity, I decided to use the paint as an interim solution to the 1970s Formica on the vanity top.
Since it was off while I stripped the cabinet, I scuff sanded the Formica w/ a random Orbit, Sprayed on a Zinsser bonding primer and rolled on the Cabinet and Vanity paint with a foam roller to bring up a light texture.
What was supposed to be a temporary deal is still there more than three years later, and the only chip is on a corner where the end cap is glued. That stuff is REALLY tough.
Ken
*Thanks for the info Ken.I've been using Glidden Aqualcrilic Gripper, and Glidden Ultra Hide Flat & Semi Gloss. The "Gripper" is well named, because it doesn't come off of anything it gets on. Cleans up well with water, if you catch it in time. Costs about the same as the Zinser, which I've used too.The reason we're doing the kitchen this way it to allow us to change the colors of the walls and cabs, keep or change the doors and drawer fronts without having to re-face or rip everything out. I just didn't know if this paint would hold up in a kitchen environment well or not.
*Use a premium quality acrylic enamel paint. Sheen doesn't matter, as long as the paint is enamel. Enamels are much harder when cured, and offer much better protection. All cabinet and vanity paint is enamel.Personally, I would not use an airless sprayer to paint my cabinets. The finish is not gonna be very good, especially if you use a gloss or semi-gloss finish. I use an hvlp sprayer for trim and cabinet work. You can rent one real cheap. James DuHamel
*James,How about a brand? Could I use a convential spray rig to spray this paint, thinned or unthinned?
*Were it me, I'd farm out the painting to a pro, and I'd specify an alkyd enamel. What I'd then have would be a flawless finish with a paint that would last longer than any acrylic product. Considering the use and abuse kitchen cabinetry gets, I wouldn't want a half solution. Read any commercial kitchen cabinetry literature, and a common theme will be the processes used to produce a hard finish that'll last for years.Doing it myself, I'd still use a high quality sprayer (nothing with Wagner in its name) and an alkyd enamel. The gloss might depend upon the color and effect desired. A darker color tends to favor less gloss, as any grease or smudges are very apparent. White, however, can carry a gloss better.As with anything of this nature, preparation is 80%. Fail to sand, seal, tack, etc. properly before shooting the cabinets, and the rest doesn't matter.
*I usually use a paint called One and Only Cabinet and Vanity enamel. It is made by Valspar, and is tintable to any color you want. There is a white, and then there is a base, make sure you get the base (if that is the paint you choose), and have them mix whatever color you want. I really like this particular paint because it has an additive that helps prevent the surfaces from sticking to each other before the paint cures. In the past, this has been a problem for a professional that can't wait several days for the paint to cure enough to keep doors from sticking to face frames when closed. This was always an area that required touch ups from us. When the client shuts the doors, and then goes to open them later, the doors can get stuck to the face frames, and peel some paint right off. Real pain to go back and repair. This paint helps prevent that from happening. Here are some doors I painted with this paint, using a conventional gun sprayer and One and Only Cabinet and Vanity paint (semi-gloss). I thin the paint with distilled water, and run it through a strainer before I pour it in the gun. Since I was doing this particular job in the shop, I could use the conventional gun without worrying too much with overspray. When I paint a set of cabinets inside the client's home, I use an hvlp rig. Less overspray, and better control. I personally would not use an alkyd enamel over a good acrylic enamel. Acrylic paints have improved in quality tremendously, while alkyds have decreased in quality. The alkyds of today aren't as good as they once were, and are messy to work with. Cleaning your gun is a real pain too. Just a recommendation and opinion...James DuHamel
*I like sherwin williams pro-classic latex enamel. dries hard like oil paint, stays white if you choose white. cleans up with water.
*What James said........ I used paint grade in my laundry room. Standard off the shelf Dunn Edwards semi gloss, shot with an hvlp. Granted they don't see the use my kitchen cabints do, but its been about a year and a half and they don't even have a nick yet. The hvlp sure gives a nice finish too.
*James,Doors look great. Guess I'm gonna have to move up to a HLVP gun. The conventional guns I have don't have SS inlets and needles. Got any recomendations for a HLVP gun with SS that can use a conventional compressor?BTW, I live over here near Elgin, Texas.
*
I'm in the process of designing the cabinets for our kitchen remodel. These will all be paint grade maple ply with poplar or soft maple face frames, and 1/2" ply backs. The doors will be solid edge banded maple ply with a lacquer finish.
I need to know if a gloss or semi-gloss latex paint would hold up well for this project. I've built several of these cabs for other parts of the house and used flat to paint the interiors and exteriors to match the surrounding walls.
I plan on spraying with my airless sprayer so I would rather use water based than solvent based material.