Hi all,
Would appreciate your advice on the following. The picture below is taken from the door looking into what will be a small bath on upper floor. This was previously a walk-in closet with cabinets on the block wall and some interesting framing. We are now looking to install a wall-mount toilet on this wall roughly where the PVC drain pipe stops.
The problem is that I don’t have any real support for a new 2×6 frame and especially not for the wall-hung toilet. As you can see there is no joist against the wall and the room below has plaster directly on the block wall. Ceiling rests on this in the corner.
I’m thinking lag bolting a 2×6 against the wall but it is awfully tight there, not more than 6-7″ so I have trouble getting even an angled drill in there.
What would you do?
Nicoman
Replies
Without knowing the exact toilet that you are trying to hook-up its hard to come up with an answer, [they are different], sorry.
"If all else fails, read the directions"
Why wall hung?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Fur out the wall against the block. But where is the waste gonna go?
You want a new 2x6 wall instead of the 2x? furring that is currently there?
And, you expect the plumbing for the wall mount toilet to fit in the space of a 2x6?
And, you want to lag a 2x6 against the wall behind the floor joist to take the load when you build the new wall? But there is not enough room to drive a lag when you slip the 2x behind the pipe?
And, the current floor joist is too far from the wall to support the wall load?
1. Select your toilet and see what you need for plumbing clearance behind the wall. Not having to spec or install a wall mount I can't tell if the 2x6 wall would be enough.
2. Rather than beat youself up trying to fit a ledger in that tight space, when you determine where the plumbing must go use a length or more of angle iron with a leg up so you can bolt it to the wall. That will be the ledger to support the bottom of the new wall.
3. Additional support for the new wall can be gained by lagging vertical blocking flat against the wall and then attaching the wall studs to them.
Edit to ask:
Once you fur the wall, do you have enough clearance in that space to even put a toilet facing the door?
As close to the door as the toilet seems to come, as I see it in the pic, you might be able to accomplish the task by building out the wall to right a bit to give almost the same headroom and place the toilet with the bowl pointing to the left.
To avoid problems of cutting in the waste line through the joists, a wall mount could still be used.
You would also lose much, much less of the rooms width if you mounted the toilet to the right .
Eh?
Edited 3/1/2007 1:27 pm ET by RalphWicklund
Well, Ralph, my first reaction to your mail was, now why didn't I think of that? Outstanding advice and in essence what makes Breaktime such a great place. I had kind of surrendered to a couple of hours of struggling to fasten a 2x6 but felt it can't hurt to ask. By the way, when you say ledger, I assume you mean a couple of strong L's 16" OC or so(not a full length one)?I've installed a couple of these toilets before and the unit fits (easily) inside a 2x6 frame. Have a look at the picture.The room is small and it will be a confined bath (shower) but I've made a plan that will make it fit and still abide both code and recommended minimum space. I thought about having the toilet as you say but it actually works out better to have it where it is as there is a shower in the other end. That existing furring wall protrudes, so it is already about 5" out from the wall, which won't make that big difference to a 2x6.FastEddie - short answer, why not? slightly longer answer, nice look, space efficient and also easier to clean the floorSphere - I don't understand what you mean? The white PVC pipe is the drain.Shacko - this model sits in the 2x6 framing, I enclosed a picture.
Get a bracket welded up to bolt to the block wall.