i would like to extend the life of my oldie but goodie extension ladder by using
linseed oil (i think). should i use boiled or raw?
also,does anyone have any ideas as to what would make a good protective coating
on a hard board (masonite) top for my secondary, seldom used workbench—would a clear shellac be o.k.?
chomper
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Replies
Been there years ago with an old wooden ladder. I used boiled linseed oil but a few years later used an oil primer and then a high gloss exterior red oil paint, lasted about 2 years under the foot fall on the rungs.
As for the bench top depending on what you do on it I'd consider just waxing the heck out of it.
thanx, j. never thought of either option--- great sugestions
I was taught never to paint a wooden ladder - you want to see the cracks.
Makes sense.
Makes more sense then to dip it in a penetrating oil stain or preservative. Maybe clear coat with something with a high uv rating if at all.
I do know years ago when my old ladder failed it surprised me when that rung broke. I don't remember seeing a problem just thought I over loaded it with my arse and three bundles of shingles on my shoulder.
We were betting money on who could carry up the most. I tied my Uncle,( he was about 50# lighter) when I got up to the last rung and it cracked. The other guys on the staging got them off my shoulder before I snapped it completly. Lost the bet because I didn't set the shingles,( drop them actually), on the staging myself. Tough crowd.
<never to paint a wooden ladder >
Yes, but -
When DW and I first got this house, it came with a 12' wooden stepladder. We cut a foot off, painted it forest green, wrapped it in re-bar tie wire, decorated the fool out of it, and used it as an inside Christmas tree for years - worked darn well!
termites finally got the ladder from standing in the shed
Forrest
Boiled. Can one even find raw anymore? As for protective coatings, I wouldn't coat it with anything that might obscure cracks or other damaged areas. Just don't store it outdoors, under barns or in sunlight.
You have to much free time if you are concerned about protecting masonite. Most folks treat it as sacrificial. Polyurethane would be a more rugged choice.
If you must go with linseed, boiled is the way to go. You might consider Watco oil finish instead. It's a pretty good finish for deck furniture.
I wouldn't bother putting anything on a masonite benchtop, but shellac would probably be good enough.
If you use linseed oil, be sure to CAREFULLY observe precautions with rags/papers soaked in the stuff -- spontaneous combustion isn't a myth.
coat the ladder with fiberglass and use ipe planks on the workbench top..lol
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Re: wooden ladder preservation.
Get a can of boiled linseed oil. Build a fire. Open can of linseed oil and throw it on the fire. Then throw the wooden ladder on the fire. Monitor fire until all traces of linseed oil and ladder are gone. Put out fire. Buy an aluminum or fiberglass ladder.
There's few things more gut wrenching than hearing or feeling that wooden rung crack when you're up near the top of the ladder.
http://grantlogan.net/
Sometimes, when I lie in bed at night and look up at the stars, I think to myself, "Man! I really need to fix that roof."
Amen.
Years ago, I was on a job as a carp, and Union crew was roofing. I heard one guy cussing and hollering for a carpenter to come to his aide.
Seems he was going up a 40' wood ladder and the 3rd rung snapped, and his leg went askewy in the tangle.
He said to cut the ladder up in pcs. and toss it in the dumpster. Did I? No, I took it home, cut off the bottom 3' and used it once..then the next weakest rung broke with me on it.
THEN it went on the burn pile. I could hardly stand it up by myself anyway...heavey SOB.
Edited 7/9/2007 7:35 am ET by Sphere
From a recent article in the S.F. Chronicle:
"Firefighters in cities with many high-voltage overhead wires -- including those that power Muni lines in San Francisco -- prefer wood ladders because they don't conduct electricity like aluminum or wet fiberglass ladders do."Wood is twice as expensive -- about $100 per foot -- and about 15 percent heavier than aluminum or fiberglass, but it holds up better in a fire, said Mike Braun, supervisor of San Francisco's Fire Shop."Aluminum or fiberglass, when it gets too hot, it gets soft; it will actually fold over without any warning," he said. "Wood takes hours to fail completely -- enough time for a firefighter to see it burning and get off it.""San Francisco has stayed with wood, said Capt. Jerry Cohane, because the ladders are sturdier and last longer, and builders like Du save the city money because they know how to get the longest life out of a ladder. Once an aluminum or fiberglass ladder cracks, it usually has to be replaced. Wooden ones can always be repaired, he said."You don't want to use a 50-foot lightweight aluminum ladder in heavy winds -- it's too dangerous," Cohane said. "http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/06/25/BAGELQL66L1.DTL&hw=wooden+ladder&sn=001&sc=1000
I don't get how wet fiberglass is more conductive than wet wood.
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Casey
That wood ladder may be alright for a firemen but have you ever stood on one while painting a house? It'll kill your feet.
I say get rid of the wood ladder as seeyou suggested and get either a fiberglass or alum, that is unless your putting out fires!
Doug
i thought i would be real old school and have a cool wood ladder, I too keep it inside and oiled, A rung broke and it looked ok before, since then no wood ladders for me, I used them before fiberglass was around much, Get rid of it, do not take a chance on breaking your leg or worse