Please forgive me as I was in HD today and saw a pile of sod in the garden center. Putting down sod in my area is not very common so I was suprised to see it . I am also ignorant as to whether I can use it in my application.
I have a large area in my yard that is somewhat bare and what is growing there is just glorified weeds. The ground is also compacted. I thought about just spreading seed and straw on the area after I had killed the weed seeds and tilled up the ground. But that seemed like real work! Could I just spray the existing weeds/grass with roundup and then lay the sod on this area? Would I have to till the area first?
I thought about posting this on the garden forum, but they seemed to be more interested in water gardens and flowers than manly subjects like sod!
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I wouldn't use herbicide to kill the weeds, as it will remain there for some time and probably effect the new sod, kill the roots or something. Better to cover the area with a black plastic tarp in the sun for a couple of days. That'll kill anything growing there.
For breaking up the soil a garden claw (http://www.gardenclaw.com/) works really well and doesn't cost much. I use one to break up the dirt as I'm digging post holes. You can pick one up at home depot when you get the sod.
One thing about sod, you have to water it heavy every day for at least a week or two until it gets it's roots into the soil. Spreading some fertilizer before you lay it down is also a good idea. Maybe even spread some manure before breaking up the soil, so it mixes in. I'd avoid synthetic fertilizer as it could burn the roots of the sod if not evenly distributed.
I'm no pro so I'm sure someone else could add to this, but this is what has worked for me.
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A herbicide such as Roundup has no residual effect. Generally allow 7-10 days for it to kill the existing vegetation before mowing, tilling, or covering.
Ted's pretty much got it.
I would add that, after you till or break up your existing soil, rake it smooth and flat and, if possible cover it with a couple inches of loam.
Laying sod is pretty easy...and a big kitchen knife or a sharp machete is advised to cut it with if you've got a defined space or some odd border shapes.
But the ground prep is important to get a smooth surface that will dictate the smoothness of your future lawn. Do a half-baked job and you can end up with a lumpy, uneven lawn that will will be a PITA to mow.
If you want to do an especially good job, you might want to rent a landscape rake and a roller to get your base in REALLY good shape. You'll be glad you did.
Edited 4/30/2008 2:21 am by Notchman
Easy?
I have to assume you mean skill wise. Those rolls are darn heavy to tote and place!
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I haven't seen rolls in a long time. Locally it's 12"x18" pieces, 500sqft/pallet. Still a work out.
more like 18x24 rolled and palletized here
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There are several sod farms north of me in the Willamette Valley. We usually just drive up and pick it up, unless it's a really large order.The rolls of sod are either in the large rolls that you need a machine to handle or small 8' foot square rolls that weigh about the same as a bundle of laminated shingles.Most landscape work is hard work....out here, most of the landscape workers are those immigrants willing to do what the natives aren't....I am an Animal
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I have put down my share of sod. Normally the way to give it the best chance of survival is to:
1) break up the soil for at least 3 inches underneath (6 is better)and mix in some compost or composted manure. They call this ameliorating the soil.
2) when you rake it out, make sure it has a constant drain angle of at least 1/8 inch per foot or you might get root rot.
3) lightly (repeat lightly) rake the soil side of the sod to expose the root ends
4) place and roll it into place with a sod roller
5) water the hell out of it until it really takes off. Even after that, never let it get dry during that first summer.
6) Overseed it spring and fall and pull the weeds. In a decade or two you will have a real lawn that you will wish you had planted in hardy perennials and ground cover.
7) Green side up ! !Greg
Rototil, then rake in fertilizer, then sod or seed.
I wouldn't be buying it from a pallet that has been sitting out at HD though. To get good sod, we order from the farm and have direct shipment so it can be relaid immediately. It does not take long, even being wet down twice a day for it to start browning on the edges of each roll.
BTW, be prepared for a workout! Laying sod can be harder than roofing, even though you don't have to worry about falling off the lawn.
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Laying sod can be harder than roofing, even though you don't have to worry about falling off the lawn.
LOL..... I dunno Paul. Back when I was a landscaper kid there were a lot of days where I had trouble not falling off!View Image
Like everyone else said till the soil or break it up somehow and rake it out. You can have a sample or two checked at the local ag ext to see what you may need to add prior to laying the sod. Ph and fertilizer can be adjusted when you till as well as adding more organics to loosen it and keep it loose.
Be prepared to water twice or more per day initially depending on how hot your sun is. You only have to water enough to get the roots wet and a little more, so use their depth as a guide to how much water for each session (might be as short as 15 minutes).
Edited 4/30/2008 7:22 am ET by john7g
Others gave good advice, but I'll add some things:
If you have a large area, get help--once the sod is delivered, it is really a race against time because the sod heats up on the pallets and you leave it too long it will get hot enough (sort of the way compost does) to kill it (especially on the bottom of the load). Till in (Rototiller is easiest) compost or rotted manure or peat moss or combination of those and good loam (black dirt). I wouldn't expect it to grow if you just throw it down on the ground you've got without some prep work. Killing the old grass with black poly will work, so will Roundup and Roundup is supposed to biodegrade after a couple days.
When laying the sod, grab each piece and butt it tightly to those that are already down and use your fingers gripping it to sort of scrunch it back together and wiggling it to establish a good connection with the soil below--it spreads from being rolled and shipped in piles on pallets and being unrolled and needs to be sort of compacted back together. Do not overlap, do not leave gaps. We never rolled it afterwards, but it may help get the roots into the soil.
Keep hydrated and maybe drink some sports drinks while laying it--I remember my arms cramping after I laid sod one day from 7 a.m. till 7 p.m. after most of the crew left about 4 and left the foreman and me to finish the job--I would lift my arms while showering afterwards (it is dirty work, because the sod is grown in black loam) and my arms would "stick" and cramp and I'd have to pull one back down with the other--hoping they didn't both cramp at same time!
Water it every day for about a week so it is soaked with each watering. You should be able to tell when it takes hold and starts to grow.
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Profile is good but sod is sod. His only real problem is that he has hard sopil which is probably why the old grass is dead and why every single respondent here so far has said to open the soil up first.
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Thanks to all for the suggestions. The area that I was going to do was about 500 sqft that was once under a huge oak tree that half of it was blown down in a bad storm three years ago. When the tree was there the grass was always very thin as a result of the shade.
I live on a farm in the old farmhouse. Farmhouse yards were always just part of the field that just got mowed. So my grass is just what was there. Some is nice and some is not. Last year's drought killed alot of grass and just allowed more weeds to take hold this spring. I really so need though to take care of this spot in the front yard. After reallythinking about it after reading all of the suggestions I believe that I will just spray roundup on the area to kill the weeds and roots and then till it up and seed and fertilize and straw it and keep it well watered. I just thought sod would give me a better yard without quite so much work, but it now appears that is not so. Thanks for the advice!
It took 4 replies before someone mentioned "green side up!"
I thought that would be first!Pete Duffy, Handyman
That's because most of us are up on the latest technology: Apparently you're not familiar with "Reversa-Grass" which was developed to help home owners cope with drought and City water restrictions.The sod can be flipped over to expose the brown side to give passersby the impression that you're a responsible, water-frugal person, then, at night, you can flip it over and enjoy the green under subdued landscape lighting.Or to fool the property tax assessor who will observe a bare-dirt yard because you are so poor you can't even afford to maintain a few weeds.When watering is allowed, after restrictions, you flip the sod green-side up without the grass having to take a long time to recover....instant green! Great stuff!No offense, but I'm always amazed at the number of people who are so behind the times!I am an Animal