Hi all:
My name is Larry, a first time poster, living in warm Yorktown, VA. I’m finishing up a 10×12 shed and am at the roofing stage. I’ve two questions:
1) The roof (including overlap of the gable drip edges) is 154″ long. How do I lay out the shingles to include this 4″ sliver in each row and consequently keep the vertical lines looking decent? I’ve checked all my tool sources and couldn’t find a “shingle stretcher” in any of them <G>.
2) It’s a barn style roof. Is there a preferred method of laying out the courses to accomodate the “intermediate” ridge. Should the top course be such that the bend at the tab is on the ridge thus showing a 5″ course at the top? If that’s the case how do I “cheat” on the reveal to accomodate a deck that isn’t exactly divisible by 5?
Thanks in advance. This is my first major project and my first roofing experience. If I’d known at the start what I know now I would have dimensioned the roof differently. Life is full of lessons learned, yes?
Larry
Replies
Add shingle molding to either side to pick up the 2 " for a full half tab cut.
Lay out the roof from the center and go from there. Set the courses to half lap. Use the large drop from one edge on the other edge....
To the ridge... Adjust the reveal by no more than 1/8" for a full shingle lay and then put down a 2/3rd's course then yur cap.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
You could always thatch the roof.
IanDG
first of all, you won't have a 'sliver' in every course because you have to stagger the shingles from one course to the next. every other course- or 6"- if you're a rookie. pros usually use a 3 course repeating pattern with a 4" shift from one course to the next on straight gables. in other words, at one end of the roof (the left side if you're right handed) the width of the tabs will repeat at 12" & 6" or 12", 8", & 4". so at the left end of the gable you'll start by laying a full shingle, then the next course will have 4" cut off the left edge (leaving an 8" tab), then the next will have 8" cut off (4" tab), then repeat with a full shingle.
the right edge of the courses will be whatever they come out to- no changing that. to prevent having to nail excessively narrow pieces over at the right edge, you'll sometimes need to cut back a full tab in that course, so that the piece you nail in is a full tab + the 'sliver'.
there's actually a whole lot more to doing a quality roof job, but that's the most basic description of proper layout i can give without going into a bunch of details about how to build a pyramid pattern using chalk lines, etc.
as far as the "barn style" break in the deck, there's a couple different ways to go. personally, i'd check with local codes and let them dictate how it has to be done. it depends on slope, wind exposure, etc. as to how much trouble that's gonna be. some might require a bent metal flashing where others might allow a purely shingle based solution. don't worry about the courses not being exactly 5" at the break- it won't matter and nobody will notice from the ground anyway.
m
Thanks Mitch and IMERC. That's pretty much the solution I had come to. As for Thatching, there's enough seed pods and pollen dust on the felt to make it look thatched!!
Larry
I decided to re-roof once the existing roof got to looking like a forest bed. I wonder if I need to get the city's permission to remove these 20 trees from my property? ;-)
That pic looks like my lawn. Taking care of it is what I *should* be doing.
Larry
there's a great shingle tool on the market, from 'ACCUTOOLS'
invented by a guy named larry.
check it out.