My home has a detached garage. The garage is over a daylight basement, which I am going to convert to a woodshop. The garage floor is plywood over I-joists. The problem is water from rain or melting snow which drains off the vehicles and leaks through into the daylight basement. Needless to say, this is not good for insulating the shop ceiling, for the finished wood projects, or for the woodworking machines and tools. I need to coat the garage floor with something similar to a waterproof deck coating, that will stand up to the vehicles scuffing and weight. I have even thought of rolled roofing, but that seems pretty crude. Any ideas out there?
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Cheap vinyl flooring remnant?
that'd work until the slide carrie ya out the back wall...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
sealed multi-layers of felt...
ply....
sanded 'poxy paint...
maybe...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
There is a Portland/latex based roofing material tha tis speread with trowel that I imagine would be good for this. Called Dura somethig or other. Made in Florida - or marketed from there anyway
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so how was my idea..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
The slide thru idea or the tarpaper layup? I don't think tha tthe tarpaper would wear long.But you're right about cracking if the floor has flex at the joints too.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Here's my bone to the dogs.............
AAWA plan roof membrane (Tamko) with modified kant strip at membranes perimeter and double layer under tire tracks. Drainage directed back out the door.
Flexible, durable, repairable.....~$50/sq plus adhesive.
....................Iron Helix
The vynal on the floor would be major slippery I think..
The felt in built up between layers of ply...
the ply to protect the built up and 'poxy the ply to protect that..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
How 'bout ice and water shield instead of tarpaper plies and rthen add sand to the epoxy for gription? plaion epoxy paint can be as slickery as the vinyl. The I&W would self heal around screws or nails of the second ply and that second ply would help prevent deflection between joists
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
would floor flex crack that stuff...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
"The garage floor is plywood over I-joists. "
Are you absolutely CERTAIN the floor was designed to hold up a vehicle ???
I've never seen a garage floor done with I-joists. This sounds like something that someone threw together without a lot of thought or engineering. I'd strongly suggest checking the engineering and keeping the vehicles out of there until you have it checked out...
Parking vehicles on a plywood subfloor is ridiculous. I wouldn't even consider it unless there ws concrete over the top of it.
that was my reply too. I have never seen a plywood garage floor and would be very scared of it, from weight point of view. as far as waterproofing epoxy paint works good.
Edited 1/15/2005 1:50 pm ET by BROWNBAGG
Listen to Brownbag and Boss Hog on this one.
Sonneborne makes a one-component moisture-curing urethane elastomeric deck coating.
Primer goes on at 40 mils wet, so does topcoat. You'll want to sprinkle clean sand into the topcoat and backroll it to give the surface some grit texture, otherwise it will be slippy.
You can download specs and application instructions at the Chemrex site.
We would all like to chat with the engineer that designed your garage floor.
Concrete with a slope out the door?...if the I's are engineered for the extra weight of course....Never seen a plywood garage floor. Don't think I park the superduty in there...unless it was time for a new one and insured.
The International Residential Building Code requires that garage floors be of approved noncombustible material. Doesn't sound like your situation meets that criteria. To echo others in this thread, are you sure that you have something that has been engineered rather than thrown together or was intended as vehicle storage?
Also to echo others, I would recommend that you consider strengthening the floor system to support concrete. Handling the liquids for a dry basement gets leagues easier, plus you get a safe installation.
I did one of these floors in 1990, still holding up.I-joists with two layers 3/4" plywood and a layer of 1/2".The owner worked at a wholesale produce company, where they had many walking refrigerators. All the floors were covered in a seamless vinyl, impervious to water, forklift trucks, and heavy duty cleaning fluids.
Owner had this applied to his floor. Looked great, washed off with a hose, and slip resistant.If I remember correctly, the floor was engineered by the TJI supplier, with detailed drawings.I still have the drawings, somewhere.
I would take a good look at how much damage has already been done to plywood and I-Joists with the water and salt. Normally pretty tough on fasteners.
If you can imagine it, it can be designed and built.
Greg in Connecticut
Edited 1/16/2005 9:19 am ET by GZAJAC1