Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 30, 2000 03:23pm | #1

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   Hi Bob,

   The problem is most likely poor insulation between the window and framing.

   First, using a utility knife, scribe a cut between the trim and the wall to ensure that when you remove the trim that you don't peal the paint off the wall.

   Next, with a flat bar, carefully remove the trim from the inside of your windows and doors and remove any insulation that may be in there.

   Next get a can of spray foam insulation and fill the gaps as per the instructions on the container. Make sure that the gaps are filled flush to the surface of the drywall. This will help to ensure that if you have a breach in the integrity of the VB at the windows that the foam will help seal it back.

   Re-install the trim.

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 30, 2000 03:56pm | #2

   *Bob, To use a favorite phrase, "a little more information would be helpful." I'm a firm believer in stopping water leak or air draft from the outside rather than from within. I don't know how your exterior trim relates to your siding, is it butted, overlapped or channeled. What kind of siding do you have? Is it beveled, ship lap, stucco? Are your windows not just your trim caulked in? With out knowing a little more I would have to guess on a remedy for your problem. I would remove the exteior trim. If the gap between window and framing is small and the window is frimly attached to the framing, I would fill the void with expansible foam. Use just enough foam to seal the gap being careful not to bulge the window jam in and leave ample room to re-caulk window and trim. Again, this is a cyberspace guess!Take My Advice, I'm Not Using It.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 30, 2000 04:47pm | #3

   *If you use the spray foam gabe is suggesting, be sure it is the non expandinfg type. The other stuff can & will over expand & hinder or even stop the operation of the window.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 30, 2000 05:37pm | #4

   *Bob, The rain is blowing in too probably. Start from the outside is probably the best advice & you will be way ahead to buy a decent tool too. Sounds like you will be doing a bit of foaming, might as well do it right. http://www.buildcentral.com/icf/Adhesivefoams/Foamguns.htmThis is one place that sells this gun, many other suppliers carry it. The cheapie will do a good job for you & is worth buying. Joe H

1. 
   Guest_ | May 01, 2000 05:48am | #5

   *Type of foam here is important -If he uses an expanding foam, we've seen many cases where the expansion over time caused the windows to bind, depending on window type.Very important around windows to use low- or no-expanding foam!

2. 
   Guest_ | May 01, 2000 05:58pm | #6

   *Wherer there is wind there is rain. If wind is getting in so might mositure. If you have vinyl siding, yu have mositure anyway. recent articles in both this and the Journa l of light Construction have good info, but I too would start from the outside if at all possible. Yo do not mention what kind of windows. As you have read above, be careful of foam especially with vinyl windows. I have seen homewoners put so much foam in that the window barely work form the frames bending. We do use foam but low expansinon and very little amount to act as a seal and then after it has expanded and set we finish with fiberglass. Also age can be a factor. You mentioned seeing the curtains blow when closed. Is the blowing near where the sliders meet. Maybe those seals are gone.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 01, 2000 06:48pm | #7

   *A good point has been brought up about type of foam to use. If you are unfamiliar with this product, use the low-expanding foam. Also, do not depend on the foam alone to stop water penetration, you need to caulk.

2. 
   Bob_Sutherland | May 03, 2000 06:05am | #8

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   Thanks Shakey Jake and All who replied.

   The siding is beveled cedar painted with rawhide butted up to the stained green trim work. Where the siding butts up against the trim there is a bead of 50 year clear caulk. A bead of this same clear caulk "seals" the trim to the window.
   I am not sure what sits behind the trim. And as a result I am not sure how the window sits in relation to the and framing but its easy enough to find out. Ease the trim away from the house and take a look.
   I suspect the rain has caused some of the water damage on the sill. I have only lived in this house through the winter. I suspected it was winter ice build up then thaw (well now I know that happens). And it would not surprise me to find water blown in there this spring.
   One window is really bad, I bet whatever I find with the one "bad" window I will find with the others.
   I am familiar with the low-no expanding foam. Do you think the foam will absorb and retain wind blow water causing me a rot problem down the road?

   Thanks again for all your answers, you have been a real real help.

   Bob

3. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 05:09pm | #9

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   Missing flashing or nailing flange? Depending on age of windows ... Dependence on large sealant bead as primary waterproofing?
   Not great ...

1. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 06:29pm | #10

   *Bob-try closing the windows...

1. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 07:05pm | #12

   *bob..are the windows the original windows?are they sash weight windows ?are they replacement windows in old sash weight frames?

4. 
   Bob_Sutherland | May 03, 2000 07:05pm | #11

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   Greetings:
   When the wind blows, which is quite frequently where I live. I can feel
   air infiltration around the finish work. Its so bad when I close the drapes they move as well.
   What do I do? Do I pull the finish work off from the inside or do I approach it from the outside? Obviously I need to fill the space between the window jamb and the window. What is the best way to do this?

   Thanks,
   Bob