Leveling rim joist
We tore off a small attic in order to build a play room. The existing walls are all different heights due to some sagging headers and old termite damage. the home owner had all of that repaired but they did not jack any thing up to original height. One of my questions is I need to shim up my rim joists so i can start framing walls. Am i allowed to use regular shims. what are my options? There will be an inspection.
2nd qeustion is I have never used T.J.I. joists before and am having a hard time finding installation info.
Just google tji info galore.
As far as shiming thats too vague of a ? How high,How long,How big of a gap,Whats the loads above?
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They range from the biggest gap may be 3/8" high by 8' long, but the one corner of the house were the termites were fell about 3/4" in 10' .
For info on wood I joists, here is one place: http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-9001.pdf.Whether you can get away with using regular softwood shims depends on how much weight is going to be on the rim joist. Think of it..if you pile a bunch of weight on a pair of pine shims, how much weight do you think they can take before they crush? If you do use shims, use a blob of construction adhesive to hold them in place. Otherwise they will tend to loosen and fall out as things dry out. I once was involved in putting a basement under an existing house (with a very nasty rim joist. I used cedar shakes between the block and the rim. pounded them in so they were pretty much continuous. when we took the shoring out it didn't move a bit. Course that was a nasty remodel on a house that was nearly a goner--hate to see something like that on new construction.Whether it flies with you building inspector is totally up to him. Mine wouldn't notice something like that, but here they pay a lot more attention to insulation, ventilation, fire rating, etc. Might not hurt to ask him what he thinks you should do.
The weight is a full second floor , I joists, 3/4" ply, walls, 2x8 ceiling joists and roof framing. But I probably should email him, and ask him. thanks!
"The weight is a full second floor"OK, not just an attic. Regular Cedar shims are fine, just use plenty to spread the load.
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I would approach this by blocking up off the plates. I'd start with the highest point and block up a minimum of 1/2" or so. I'd then rip shims to exactly level out at each joist location. I'd probably use the engineered rim joist as my "laser line". Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
OK, I am confused. I have never seen rim joist in an attic situation...
Anyplace that sells TJIs is supposed to provide the sheet of install instructions WITH the delivery. If they do not, they are not fulfilling their agreement with the Truss-joist people.
However, it is easy to google up the sheet and print the info yourself
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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Sounds like he is doing what I am doing with my garage, tear off the roof, put a new floor system in and then rafter the roof.
I'm using 2x12's joists and rim, then sitting my rafters on the rim.
I have gaps from old sags and whatever else happened over the years. The rim spans those gaps. Shims work well to provide bearing. Woods favorite carpenter
In my opinion , some cedar shims are too soft to carry that kind of load. I've seen them compressed under old cabinets we've removed.I'd use shims cut from pressure treated lumber(stonger,moisure and bug resistant) combined with subfloor construction adhesive to fill the gaps.Good Luck!