Is lighting required to be on a 15 amp circuit?
If so, why would the code not allow it on a 20 amp circuit? Wouldn’t 12 gauge wire be more efficient and safer?
Thanks
Is lighting required to be on a 15 amp circuit?
If so, why would the code not allow it on a 20 amp circuit? Wouldn’t 12 gauge wire be more efficient and safer?
Thanks
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Replies
why would the code not allow it on a 20 amp circuit
National code certainly allows it.
Don't know why you ask, though there are certain required 20a circuits that cannot be shared with lighting: kitchen small appliance circuits, for example.
Edited 11/17/2007 4:58 pm ET by edlee
The National Electrical Code is a code in name only.
Whatever the code is, is what is adopted by the local city or state government along with whatever amendmends that they adopt.
Some require that all wiring be done with a minimum of #12 wire. Other prohibit lighting on 20 amp circuits.
The NEC, as such, has neither limit.
"Wouldn't 12 gauge wire be more efficient and safer?"
If you are talking about electric efficiency a proper designed 15 or 20 amp circuit both be as efficient and safety. One of the things about light circuits is that the individual loads are approxiamtely known and each one is realatively small.
And there can be a good arguement that running only #14 wire is more affective. With lighting you often end up with multiple gang boxes and 3 way and 4 way switches. You end of with LOTS of wire in a box.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
The National Electrical Code is a code in name only.
Whatever the code is, is what is adopted by the local city or state government along with whatever amendmends that they adopt.
Some require that all wiring be done with a minimum of #12 wire. Other prohibit lighting on 20 amp circuits.
The NEC, as such, has neither limit.
Like I said already, the National code allows it.
Ed
"Like I said already, the National code allows it"The problem is that many people think that the published code is the CODE.Rather it is just a bunch of suggestions unless some government body adopts a sepcific version and makes amendments to it..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
20 AMP is fine. If your inspector questions it he's confused/a moron. Thing is, switches also need 20 A rating. Make sure boxes are big enough to avoid a cable fill violation.
Also, new code requires AFCI breakers in bedroom lighting circuits,...word is new/new code wants AFCI breakers everywhere occupied, except wet rooms, which need GFCI. Also, lighting must be seperate circuit from outlets, which also must be AFCI, or GFCI protected.
Local codes may vary, but welcome to the unified IEC/NEC 2006. Enjoy.
The odds of any house in America being out of current Code for electrical is 99%.
Edited 11/23/2007 2:37 am ET by skipj
" Thing is, switches also need 20 A rating."No, they only need to match what they are controlling.As far as your other comments see.http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=97205.4Many locals have amendended out the AFCI requirements.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 11/23/2007 9:34 am by BillHartmann
Hey Bill,
You're right. Local codes vary. If my current inspector saw a 15A switch on a 20A circuit, he wouldn't stop to calculate the downline load past the switch, he would violate me on the spot while looking at me as if I had just squirted a badger out of my a**.
So, my local code is pretty much everything in the IEC/NEC update, PLUS.
Meter base to Main load panel distance? 6'? Where's your disconnect switch?
320A Meter base 75' from main load panels? (2 200A)? 2 disconnects next to meter base, 1 for each panel, outdoor access (fire department, you see), clearly labeled please. Oh, and each main load panel, wired as sub, no lug panels, need a 200A breaker on each. Ground each back to disconnects, then to meter base, ground rods per CODE, box jumpers on every box please. Oh and those two 200A load panels also need seperate grounding rods, each box individually, thanks. Now let's check the grounding on your duct work, plumbing and gas pipe.
So Bill, you're right. I find that being right doesn't help me pass inspections. I try to find out what they want, and get it to them, the first time.
Not all the juridictions I work in are this hardcore, but it just seems cheaper in the long run to build as if they are. I've never been violated for too many ground rods, or too big a box, or too few lights on a circuit.
Appreciate all of your contributions to this site. Kinda felt like I wanted to explain my position and reasoning.
skipj
Why don't you fill out your profile so the rest of us will know where not to move?(:-)