*
One other thing to look for (in addition to the items already mentioned above) is if the lights in your house seem to flicker at times. Short term interruptions in line service are murder on all electrical appliances, but most noticeable on light bulbs, because they are more fragile.
If the lights do flicker, then see last month’s discussion on flickering lights… I think we covered every contigency on that one.
Also, I agree that a true 130V bulb should last longer, as it gives you about 16% more heat capacity when used at 120 volts. That Ohm-guy said it best with Voltage-squared divided by resistance equalling power. And power is heat, and heat is what kills the bulbs.
What logically follows is the real question: Why do lightbulbs get hot when you drop them?
Replies
*
Hi guys
I had a new 200 amp entrance installed during renovation. I also had the kitchen re-wired when I re-modeled it. I've noticed that my bulbs around the house have been burning out frequently. I've tried both expensive and cheap bulbs but nothing makes a difference. I replace bulbs every 2 months. Can anyone make suggestions on what to look for to find the problem. I won't touch the service panel. I'm going to call an eletrician but I'd like to know what I should look for. It's an older house and some of the old wiring is not grounded (will be re-wired eventually).
I also have some recessed halogens that keep burning out. The wiring was done by an electrician but I installed the housing and fixtures according to the instructions for an insulated ceiling(metal housing is rated to have insulation placed around it). I think the halogens may be overheating but I'm not sure. Any suggestions? Thanks guys.
Gaby
*You may have a loose neutral at the main panel or subpanel, which would put some of your 120v circuits in series and cause voltage to be high. Besure to check this. IC rated recessed lights tend to get hot and this could be a factor, although I don't know of any way to confirm this. Is it just the halogens that are a problem? Keep your fingers off of them when changing them. Fingerprints are murder on halogen bulbs.
*If you don't already own one, either buy (or put on your Christmas list)an electrical multi-meter. Radio Shack has a wide variety for any price range, but look for AC and DC volts and ohms, at a minumum. You'll have countless opportunities to use this over the years, and checking the line voltage, as Mike suggests, would probably provide enough useful information to have paid for the multi-meter. I prefer the analog kind with a needle over the digital, as many times, just a needle swing will tell me enough without having to have an exact value. A hint: Always turn the dial to OFF when done with the meter. A surefire way to kill it is to have it in the ohms (resistance) position and accidentally put it across a live circuit.
*Gaby, some cans,(usually mini's) are notorious for what you describe. If after you check for an electical problem you are still stymied, try this. Now, so we don't electrocute the new darling of Breaktime, make sure the switch to the cans is off, or switch off the circuit to the cans in question. Then, with something, pull down the contact in the socket. When there is not a good connection between the bulb and socket contact, the base arcs causing failure of the bulb. One other thing to try is when buying bulbs, get 130 volt bulbs instead of 120 v. It is my understanding that the filament is thicker and lasts longer. I've still got some of the same bulbs I installed in my cans in '89. And some of them are in my daughter's bed and bath. Need i say more.However, don't forget to check for an electical problem, which has been mentioned.
*As a previous chief engineer for some hotels, I have ordered thousands and thousands of light bulbs. There are long life bulbs available that really do last ALOT longer. My own experience is that commercial 130V Long life incandescents are great and average four times the life of standard bulbs at just under twice the cost. That said, I don't use them in my house because I don't need to buy a truck load of light bulbs and changing bulbs in my house is not as big a deal as changing 2,200 bulbs in a hotel.
*One other thing to look for (in addition to the items already mentioned above) is if the lights in your house seem to flicker at times. Short term interruptions in line service are murder on all electrical appliances, but most noticeable on light bulbs, because they are more fragile.If the lights do flicker, then see last month's discussion on flickering lights... I think we covered every contigency on that one.Also, I agree that a true 130V bulb should last longer, as it gives you about 16% more heat capacity when used at 120 volts. That Ohm-guy said it best with Voltage-squared divided by resistance equalling power. And power is heat, and heat is what kills the bulbs.What logically follows is the real question: Why do lightbulbs get hot when you drop them?
*Something about the sudden stop at the floor and the continuing pull of gravity creates friction which generates heat...I'm sure there is someone who can explain it in technical terms.Rich Beckman
*Thanks for the input guys. I'll take a look at what you suggested and then call the electrician if I I do have high voltage somewhere. I never thought about the halogen contacts.It makes sense because it's always the same 2 cans that burn out. I'm also going to try those 130V lights in a few spots to see what happens.Talk to you later guys.Gaby