Replies

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jun 30, 2007 11:45am | #1

   I haven't heard of this, but it sounds entirely credible.  But why not just use a linseed oil based primer.  I've used this: http://www.muralo.com/products/ult-x200.html with good results and I think it used to say on the label that it was linseed oil based, but looking at the TDS is says it contains 7% linseed oil.  Is that enough?  I don't know.

2. 
   GRCourter | Jun 30, 2007 04:56pm | #2

   I don't know what part of the country you are in but in the SE where there have been mold and mildew problems with paint it seems to mainly occur when the primer is linseed oil.  I have moved away form it and have not had any problems yet.

3. 
   RW | Jun 30, 2007 06:53pm | #3

   I would not use linseed oil. It may have had benefits at one time but I all I ever hear from people who, just like you "heard it from an old guy" are tales of woe and frustration. If the wood is exposed, sand it, use a good oil base primer, and run with it.

    

   Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

4. 
   Piffin | Jun 30, 2007 07:00pm | #4

   He is entirely right about the weathering. The UV rays of the sun penetrate the surface cells and break them down in the same way that UV makes plastics get brittle - or your own skin cells.

   But the primary treatment is not to try to add a substance to penetrate and harden them again. It is to use scrapers and sandpaper to prep the wood by removing the damaged cells.

   After that, any good primer is as good or better than this suggestion, IMO. Primer has bonding agents which are essentially glue. The base for most of the older oil primers was indeed linseed, but it will feed the little mildew micro-organisms too.

   If you really need a wood hardener, try the Minwax wood hardener. dry in twenty minutes, penetrates deeply, and then a quick sanding and you are ready for primer.

   I you are set on using this older method,make sure that you have a primer with linseed oil base, add some mildewcide, add no more than 10% by volumn, and be prepared to wait an extra day or three for it to dry.

    

    

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1. 
   Sphere | Jun 30, 2007 11:51pm | #5

   Not JUST linseed oil, specifically BOILED linseed oil, elsewise, it will be wet for a long, long time.  BTDT.

   Edjit to add: a capfull of Japan Drier to a QT of B.L.O. really helps it set up more faster.

    

   Edited 6/30/2007 4:53 pm ET by Sphere

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 01, 2007 12:40am | #6

   Yes boiled.But nada on the japan drier if the reason he is using the added BLO is to let it penetrate the wood. The very reason it penetrates is the slow cure time. It doesn't seize up before it soaks in. Tighten it up with drier and he loses the reason behind it. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   DougU | Jul 01, 2007 01:56am | #7

   Around here I can still get linseed oil primer, I think its Pittsburg paint, not 100% on that though, I'd have to look.  I've used it on my place and will continue to.  I'm not buying the "just some old guys" tale, If that were the case then why are they still selling it!

   I've been told to do the same with old wood with out any paint on it, scrape if needed, sand and prime.

   I dont add anything to the paint, I'm with you on the Japan dryer, you dont want it to set up to fast, kinda defeats the purpose.

   Doug

1. 
   darkchalk | Jul 02, 2007 04:19am | #8

   Thanks everyone, I appreciate the suggestions. I definitely will concentrate on the prep. Thorough sanding and a good primer with the linseed oil if I can find it. FYI - It's an exterior wood door my painting and it hangs in Chicago. Thanks again for the responses.