*
As an electrician of course I agree with you about the extra circuits. Another item is a good idea also; empty conduits. The typical entry point in the home for power and all low voltage is the garage. I built a home years ago that had no easy path from that garage to either the basement or attic. When building, it is so simple to install a 1 inch conduit for each power and low voltage to the attic and basement. Materials cost almost nothing and you will love yourself for it later.
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*
Mark - Not sure how long you plan to live with this house, but 36" doors, one level, wide halls, and lever vs knob door handles will keep you out of the "old folks lodges" longer.
*Put gate valves at every branch of water supply lines in the basement: repairs can then be more easily made without shutting down the whole house. Similarly, feed second floor water lines directly from the basement, not from first floor fixtures.
*
Here are three things worth considering.
#1. Built in fold down ironing board. Buy the unit before you start framing. That way you can get the "pocket" right where you want it. Check the instructions again when you are wireing.
#2. If there is any chance you are going to want to add a pool, spa, or shop use a meter base with provisions for additional breakers. When you build your shop, powering up is as simple as running a line to the meter base. The one I used cost about $125 and it has spaces for four breakers; two for the shop, one for the pool, and one in reserve.
#3. Someone mentioned hose bibs every 50' around the house. I prefer hydrants on a 1" line that tees off the service line to the house. This way, you get good pressure, you don't hear running water in the house, and hydrants are easier to maintain than bibs. Nothing is worse than breaking off a hose bib when all you wanted to do is replace a washer. In cold climates this eliminates a cold spot in the wall. Remember, if it gets cold enough, even a frost free bib can conduct enough cold into a house to freeze and burst it's own supply line. A hydrant a few feet from the house is easier to use than a bib down low and behind a bush. And, it is easy to extend the line to a hydrant in the garden.
*Margaret, - We plan to stay in this one for keeps, so we're thinking along those same lines--"how will I like this layout/house when I'm shuffling/rolling." For example, I like the look and feel of a step-down LR, but it is not practical from an accessability standpoint (and it's probably pricey too). Also, I've been looking at floorplans/rooflines that would make adding a small suite for the in-laws easier if that time comes. We're not looking for property yet, I don't know what zoning considerations there'll be if we want add a small kitchen, den, and bedroom to a house.
*
When we built my Dad's house, we placed 4" PVC pipe just below grade across the long concrete driveway every 50 feet. A couple of years later, we decided on a lawn sprinkler system and also put in an alarm system with one leg run out to the workshop. It was an easy matter to locate the "ports" and to chase pipe and wiring through them.
We also put 2" PVC "chases" vertically from the crawl space through the partition walls and into the attic in two locations. This was very handy for the alarm company and for speaker wires, etc.
*
I've used the X10 remote control plug in modules (radio shack)...these allow a incandescent load to be switched remotely. No dedicated wiring for circuits you use 2-3 weeks of the year, plus you can use them around the home with a remote control timer to give the house a lived in look... they can do this the other 49 weeks.
Adam
*Those 36" doors Margaret mentioned, including for bathrooms, will make replacing molded tub/showers easier. Also, easily removable partition walls (screwed to main wall) at heads of tub/showers. Pictures taken during construction. (See John Abram's Owner's Manual article.)Generator input panel at breaker box is relatively cheap during construction.
*Here's a link that I've found helpful for this topic:http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/7400/features.html
*Spend two bucks more and use ball valves instead of gate valves. They turn off more reliably, quickly and you can visual tell if they are open or closed. -David
*I second the motion for ball valves over gate valves. Also look for full port ball valves. These have a larger hole through the ball for more water flow.Frank
*Scott, Thanks for the link, there are a lot of really good ideas there (and in this thread). Glad I asked this question, thanks to all.MarkW
*
My suggestions for how to make a house more
livable are:
#1 locate laundry facilities adjacent to the
bathrooms
#2 immediately upon entry from garage/driveway
have shelving to place parcels/groceries and
have pantry adjacent to or flanking this "depository"
#3 in continuation of #2, have the kitchen near
where you enter the house from your car. Nothing's
more of a drag than to haul your groceries
through the living room or down the bedroom corridor to get to the kitchen.
#4 don't ever put carpet in the bathrooms or dining room
These suggestions seem to be of obvious utilitarian
value. Yet, I don't very often
see even a single one of these features
in a house. If one of these features I do see, it's
most likely that there's not carpet in the bathroom
or dining room, but even so, more often I find those
rooms carpeted.
*
b TVMDC
Put the laundry room next to the master bathroom since most of the laundry comes from the master area. Slope the floor with a drain in the middle and tile it.
*
a dedicated spot in the kithcen where I can put the dog bowls and not have to worry about stepping in them in my bare feet at 2 AM -- SImply leave out a narrow base cabinet.
*
Here are a few we use; 1)A couple of exterior outlets switched to the garage with a timer for Christmas lights, 2)three-way the back yard lights to the master bedroom to see what's making the racket in the middle of the night, 3)cast iron drops on the waste lines--quieter plumbing, 4) an area in the garage with two double duplexes to plug in cell phones and other cordless devices, 5) dedicated electrical service to computer locations, 6) double circuits to the kids bath for two hair dryer use, 7) pre-plumb gas to all the fireplaces, 8) a secret compartment somewhere for valuables, 9) waterproofing foundations (Tuff-N-Dri) and lots of foundations drains with lotsa rock, 10) big doors, 11) 9 foot main floor ceilings (min), upstairs too!, 12)hot water recirc. system, 13) double ovens, I like the Dacor, 14) great lighting the Juno line has a lot of flexibility, 15) sound resistance glass if in a noisy area, Milgard has several options like a mix of 1/4 and 1/8 inch glass when using double pane systems, 16)Moist-Stop and Moist Seal every window with continous flashings at each opening--very careful Tyvek or paper installation, 17) maybe the most important--a good design that fits your lifestyle! Good luck.
*Instead of ells and straight couplings, use tees with plugs in locations where in the future something might be added to the gas system.
*
Wherever two rooms meet, or a hallway and room meet, provide two llight switches, one for each. You'll be thankful for them in the middle of the night!
*Wherever two rooms meet, or a hallway and room meet, provide two llight switches, one for each. You'll be thankful for them in the middle of the night!
*>A couple more little things-get a good quiet fan for the baths(we use panasonics)-your more likely to use the fan if its quiet. We try to limit the number of switches at one location to two, three if we have to. A lot of people will say its impossible, but we have found that most of the time with a little thought about how the lights are to be used, we can pull it off. my life is confusing enough without trying to remember which switch does what.
*
Just starting a new house of my own -- very interesting thread. I'll be installing computer network cabling (Ethernet) in nearly every room, same as phone and TV cable. How 'bout a shallow depression in the garage slab under each car engine area where you can put a little oil dri to contain the inevitable drips, or just the condensation from the AC in the summer. Put a "dryer vent" in the garage walls and attach a flexible hose that you can hook to your car's tailpipe so you can warm it in the winter with the garage door closed. Also put that 4" PVC in the driveway ramp to the garage (next to the house). If you're building over a crawlspace, take the time to remove all rocks, roots, clods, etc. before you start framing. When wiring, put each room on a seperate circuit. The kitchen will need more than one, so put the lights on their own circuit. Wire each room with a seperate switch for the ceiling fan; you can get 3-speed wall switches for the fans as well.
*MDM,I took it one step further on the last kitchen I built for myself: ALL lower cabinets are drawer units. I didn't use full-extension slides, though, which was a mistake; next time I'll spend that extra $15 per drawer!
*
I once had an apartment that had kind of a hexagonal counter arrangement in the kitchen. Instead of having the sink as the main focal point of the design, which seems to be the most common arrangement, it was off to the side leaving open a great deal of uninterupted counter space. At the end of the peninsula was located the dishwasher. With the door pulled down and the racks pulled out it was approximatly in the center of the kitchen. I found this to be a superior layout as it made it extremely easy to load and unload the dishwasher. Another thing I would suggest is a vaccuum cleaning system.
*Too late for our remodel, but they have come out with one cover plate which will cover up both plug and low voltage (modem connection) and thereby neaten up the walls in rooms with internet access.We installed built in wooden mailboxes and a catalog drawer in the kitchen in an attempt to control the mess of mail on the kitchen table.We are using large awnings which open electronically to shelter a back door in the winter (NW) so that they can be rolled up in summer for the view. Sunbrella lasts about 7 years in this situation, not bad.
*
......a paid off mortgage
*LOL! (Of course, that doesn't stop the upkeep bills!)
*
Individual lockers with space underneath them, wherever you come in the door most often (to catch clothes, shoes, purses, sunglasses, keys, etc).
Outlets (with switch in garage) in the exterior soffits every 50' (to plug in Christmas lights). Automatic switches for closets (we used in-jamb switches). Whole-house fan to extend the months when we don't have to use A/C. Stained concrete floors everywhere except living and bedrooms (a swoosh with a 36" wide dust mop takes 3 minutes). 36" doors throughout the house (learned that when I broke my leg and had to use a wheelchair). Separate one-car garage door leading from garage to back yard-just drive out with the mower!!! Since we don't use the oven much, we put it in-line with the base cabinets and saved a bunch of counterspace. Nice kitchen aesthetics: outlets, undercabinet lights, and switches hidden under wall cabinets (behind trim) so the backsplash is unspoiled. Most important of all: for base cabinets, we used two deep pull-out drawers with full extension slides (instead of doors with shelves behind them); sssoooo much easier to access stuff!!
*
Dishwasher 6" higher than normal. Design in a 42" high counter run in the area where the DW is. My favorite: 7"rise/11"run stairs, noticibly easier to climb down.
*b TVMDCThank you Steve Turner (Post #7): Just completing a remodel and gave the owner a 3-ring binder with equipment instructions, floor plans, contract, change orders, photos and biz cards of important contacts. It was extremely well received.Thank you Steve Turner!
*Y'all are a wealth of knowledge and I look forward to hearing more and more. Sheesh, I thought I just needed rewiring, and I do want a deck, and a room above the garage, and the kitchen remod is so far off, etc., and now I need an entire remodel! Dang! Raze the hillside!I must agree w/Bill about the value of Steve's hints. Given the rapid advances in technology and building techniques, etc., this thread ought to have a half-life at least as long as some of our now-closed (oops, we thought they were safe and cost-efficient! oops, we didn't know all the electricians--to name just one highly-paid trade involved--were stoned out of their brains!) nuclear plants.I would just add two things:* Anyone who doesn't want to offer the minimum of what Bill itemized (above) from Steve's hints is someone with whom I would think twice about doing business--providing I had asked for such info, of course, and been given a brush off like "Oh, you won't need those." A potential roofer I interviewed balked; the roofer I hired complied w/all (well, I'm still awaiting the skylight warranty, but that's no biggie at the moment--no rain predicted for decades lol), and very graciously.* Anyone who does offer those things before I ask gets major points, particularly if he or she can show me an example of what has been provided to a previous customer.A side note: Letters of recommendation are also a great pre-sale tool--providing the people are still alive or at that address and phone. (The character who did a roof patch years ago gave me two pages of references w/addresses but no phone numbers, and my bro was patching his patch job a couple of months later in the rain, bless his sweet heart!) Gullible moi no more! (Well, one can hope!) Oh, well, of course I could be wrong! (Isn't that phrase quid pro quo for posting here these days?)
*Run 3 conductor wire from the light switch to every outlet in the room, so that when someone decides where they want a lamp controlled by the switch it is easy. Or make top half of each outlet switched, bottom live. If it needs to be changed it is only the cost of a duplex outlet.
*
I wouln't like this. A better solution for me is put switched overhead or wall fixtures in every room instead of making people put a lamp in. I wouldn't like the lost sockets. Another thing I did and liked a lot in a house I built was putting in extra electrical receptacles so every corner had a plug and short walls had a plug as well as putting in plugs in closets so vacuums and rechargeables can be plugged in.
Mary
*
Here's a few more; 1)have the framer block for backing where cabinets, towel bars and crown moldings will go, 2) put a permanent safety harness attachment point on the roof installed by the roofer, 3) put in an attic exhaust fan on a thermostat, 4) have the finish carpenter meet with the framer to set up the railing system posts into the framing (use KD lumber) and blocks for the grab bar, mantel and wanescoting, 5) offset the shut-off for the ice maker into a nearby cabinet if the refrig. is very big or built in. VERY IMPORTANT: Pre-prime all cedar before installing or right away after. As proven by the US Forest Products Research Dept. cedar looses 1/2 its ability to hold paint EVERY two weeks when exposed to sunlight! Learned that the hard way!
*
I'd like to hear ideas concerning the small things that make a house easier to maintain/fix/live with, but which are often not done.
Here are some I can think of right now:
- Access panels (and shut-off valves) for showers/tubs.
- Outside hose bibs: One every 50' around the outside of the house
*A sewer cleanout comes to mind. Nothing makes a house less liveable than a backed up sewer.
*Install twice the electrical outlets and triple the circuits you normally have in the most used rooms (Kitchen, Family room, living room and master bed).Also install those hose bibs at least 24" above finished grade.My opinionBob
*First of all the most important thing that some builders/architects miss(not the good ones) is actually talking with the owner and getting to know them well enough to figure out what they really need. The best way to do this in my opinion is to look at there existing home. You will inevitable get responses like we normally dont have this much stuff in the garage, the house doent always look this way etc. Although this may be true, it clue me in to suggest that most people need more storage areas/closets. Is there a pile of paper work on the kitchen table, maybe they need an office area. Now that I am finished with my preaching try these:Upgradable cable and phone jacks in all room(conduit in wall etc.)Quality paint work(back prime etc.)and the knowalge that if the home owners recoat exterior wood before it LOOKS bad(we recommend 2 years on new construction) they can expect to get much longer life from there finishes.Photo journal of walls before sheet rock is hung(people do not like to do this because it leaves them open for libality)Marked sewer clean out/water cutoffsUsable attic storage with pull down stairMarked paint cans and paint scheduleExtra floor tile etc.sealed garage floorsGood roof overhangs, gutters rain diverters etc.Ditto on the added electrical circuits(properly labeled)And finally a good contractor that will be around in the future to answer the evaluate questions that will come up over the years. We try to keep accurate records so when our customers call we can quickly answer there questions. On our commercial work we always get call asking for the name or color of a laminate or paint, and when we can spit out the information quickly from our data base, we amaze our customers. With that kind of service, we always get call for future work and excellent referrals.Good luckDavid
*One more Boric Acid in walls to help control BUGS
*It is indeed a pleasure to know you sir.
*mark,My wife and I spent several years thinking about our house. I stuck with the technical side and used Joyce's wants and needs to plan our home. Think of everything you can think off and then think some more. Take all of these good suggestions and adapt them all to your situation. This is the fun part of building. Do it all right on the structure and try to finish it now. Any way you can come close to both is rewardable.Here's our tips that have worked well for us. Passive solar, Hot water heat, optimum insulation, Open living area (kit., d.r., liv. rm) and the best damn waterproofing you can do. Add to that, much experience, a sizable budget and alot of work and you have some of the stuff to think of. I'll provide you with the Best of Luck. Enjoy,
*As an electrician of course I agree with you about the extra circuits. Another item is a good idea also; empty conduits. The typical entry point in the home for power and all low voltage is the garage. I built a home years ago that had no easy path from that garage to either the basement or attic. When building, it is so simple to install a 1 inch conduit for each power and low voltage to the attic and basement. Materials cost almost nothing and you will love yourself for it later.
*I'd like to have some outside electrical outlets. One on each side of the house. I have also put in electrical outlets in the soffit that is switched inside the front door for Christmas lights. Nice touch.Also, deck the attic after insulation. Great for storage. Put the attic access pull-down stair in the garage. Not in the main hallway of the house.I'd put a cut-off for the plumbing (a master cut off) inside the front coat closet or in the garage so you didn't have to cut off the water at the meter when something starts leaking. And, I'd put a drain in the laundry room floor. I would for sure add in the individual plumbing cut-offs as mentioned above.I'd also put in an attic fan. Those things are wonderful during the Spring and Fall seasons.Just a start,Ed. Williams
*A procedure I plagarized from something I read a few years ago... Provide the homeowner with a ring binder which contains the operating and installation manuals for EVERY major item in their new or remodeled home: Ranges, HVAC units, water heaters, etc. Include the product registration cards. Provide also the painting schedule information. List the names and phone numbers of the subs who did the electrical, plumbing and mechanical work. Place this information in plastic sheet protectors, one for each appliance or subject. Finally, write a one-page cover letter giving the permit number and a list of inspections performed, and expressing appreciation for the opportunity to serve as their contractor.All this can be done for less than five bucks and a half-hour of your time. The subs will have to cooperate by retaining all the installation/operation manuals, but I've had no problem there. The reaction I've received is that this package looks professional (it is), and that it's truly appreciated by the owners.I've found that these notebooks don't get thrown away, and suspect that I have had a few less phone calls about how to set the clock on the microwave.ALSO, make sure the panel box is marked in an accurate and meaningful manner...
*I second the motion. Empty conduits from attic to basement/ crawlspace and garage, or wherever power and phone entrance is. Conduit can be metal or PVC. Cap unused ends for now without glue...Frank
*A 30 amp outside service and a Tee into the septic/sewer line for visiting RV's.
*Unless you spend a lot of time in your cellar, put all the lights on one switch so you don't end up with bulbs in the far reaches burning out because they don't get turned off.
*- Any thoughts (from plummers or otherwise) on the value of "upsizing" waste pipes to discourage clogging?Thanks to all who've contributed so far. Mark
*Built-ins, don't drywall everything first off, think about using some interior wall space. Those little nooks and crannies can be interesting.
*Mark: More is not always better. You can use 3 or 4-inch from a toilet. It would seem that smaller would clog more easily with chunks but bigger can leave the solids behind as the shallower stream of liquid gets ahead. And while 1/8" drop per foot is allowable, 1/4" per foot is preferred - you are more likely to be able to do 1/4" if you use 3" instead of 4". I was able to use 4" at a 1/4" per foot in my own house. The bigger quality issue is USE CAST IRON for any run that you might hear, especially from a toilet. Once it's in the slab or the basement, go ABS. But in the walls and ceilings, use cast iron. Many people post with questions of how to quiet their drain pipe, "Is there some insulation. . ?". The answer is they should have put in cast iron.Bigger not always better also applies to supply piping. A friend's plumber put in 1" copper to each bath and the kitchen, going to 1/2" for each fixture. There is no detectable pressure drop in the shower when someone flushes the toilet but he waits 4 minutes for hot water to get to the kitchen sink. 3/4" to feed multiple fixtures would have been a better balance between pressure drop and hot water travel time.Other plumbing nicities: Recirculating hot water with a circulator pump on a timer or a thermosiphon if your water heater is below your points of use. No easier time to put in the return loop than when the walls are open.Instant Hot Water dispenser at the kitchen sink. Great for a cup of tea or soup or to speed up steaming vegatables oor pasta on the stove.Put a hot water spigot alongside the garden hose spigot for washing the dog (with a laundry hose Y adaptor), defrost the car window, etc.If you have or will have teenagers, upsize the hot water heater (HWH) in gallons and in BTU's. Consider a tempering valve on the HWH outlet so when company is over or everone is returning from camping, you can crank the HWH setting without creating a scald hazard in the house. Turn the tempering valve down as much as you can for safety and turn the HWH thermostat up as much as need. -David
*MD: I agree that there's a lot of wasted space in wall cavities, but had to put a caution in here. Make sure you've got continous drywall, taped properly (or solid wood with no gaps) behind any built-ins. My two firefighter relatives have never seen a fully involved house fire with intact, continous drywall. Continous drywall keeps a fire contained to the room where it started. If the whole house goes up, there's always a defect - bad ceiling lighting fixture, storage access door left open, wall left open during remodel, etc.
*If you are one to put electric candles in the windows at Christmas, put an outlet under each window ( that would have a candle) and wire to one switch. Do not count these outlets as the required ones for NEC, as they are switched off for most of the year. Also, switched outside outlets for outside decorating. These are getting more commonplace here in central VA. Possibly from the Williamsburg influence of candles in the windows along with wreaths and other garnish.Frank
*Design and build kitchen cabinetry to accomodate pullouts in base cabinets and pantry. Lazy susans in corner cabs to access and use up dead space. At least one bank of wide deep drawers on full extension slides. And an appliance garage with electrical outlets inside.