i an making 4 square 16″ columns with 3/4″ azek. i like to use those special routerbits, do i need a routertable? are they difficult to use? thanks for any help.
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Yes, and Yes. But once set up, you're good to go , its just a fiddly trial and error at first. Save some overrun for the next set up.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "
Me.
Hey, have you ever used those bits on a many sided column? I've never tried them and it's hard to visualise it on
say an eight sided piece.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=45160&cat=1,46168
Well, thanks Chucky!
Those are just the thing.
I like only having to route one edge too.
The one draw back is the number of side should be divisible
by 5 or 6 for what I'm doing.
But I'm sure someone sells a Birds mouth bit for say an 18
sided piece.
Can't ya rip parts at 10 degrees ( 2 at 10=20x18=360) and biscuit?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Well I'm making Drums (percussion instruments) and
have found that using a spline is stronger and helps
with assembly.
So I figure some sort of lock mitre joint would save some time
and be stronger yet.
Typically if you use mechanical tuning it's five bolts.
But it is more efficient material wise for me two use more
sides thus smaller st aves so I've been using 18 sides.
So every step gets multiplied times 18.
Gets a bit time consuming...
I see. Real drum heads and rings? I made congas and bongos with hide and draw strings, then graduated to Remo heads and tone rings.
It would be cool if there was a bit for that, but if all else fails look for a set of "canoe" bits, ( I think thats what they are called) they are a 3 wing cutter with a cove and a mating half round makes a joint that can be "bent" to any radius almost.
The cut edges nest like this )) and can be glued up that way.
here ya go
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flute.html
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Edited 6/20/2008 8:47 pm ET by Sphere
Thanks, those might do it.
Yeah, real hides.
It's a hobby of mine from way back.
I've done several types of animal but mainly stick
with deer because they are so available come hunting season.
Usually I stick with traditional rope tuning (Mali weave they call it).
But I have some designs for mechanical systems I'm working towards. Actually, I have a Conga question I'll hit ya up on.
But I'll post a new thread tomorrow.
I've hijacked this poor guy's thread.
Thanks again Chuck
I don't know if you'll find one for 18 sides.
Having said that, an 18-sided polygon (octadecagon) has internal angles of 160 degrees. A 16-sided polygon (hexadecagon) has internal angles of 157.5 degrees.
If you can shim your work piece at an angle of 2.5 degrees from the bit, you could make it work with the 16-sided bird's mouth bit.
No, a lock miter is only for 90 degree joints, there are other polygon bits for 12,8,6, 5 sided polygons I think, but I never had a need for them.
I have these 12 stave columns here, and they just have a rounded tongue and groove , so loose that they can pivot to the proper radius.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Edited 6/20/2008 7:21 pm ET by Sphere
They also make them for 8 sided work.http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/55393.html
Will those 14-1/2" interior faces have any mid-span support? i could see them being floppy.
Forrest
do i need a routertable?
No, cut a hole in a piece of ply/mdf.........and mount your router to that. Make a fence with two rips of ply/mdf........... nail and glue the rips at a right angle and you have a strait fence, cut around where the router bit is and your good to go. You can even box in the area where the bit runs and hook a vacume up to it if you want dust control, works as good as any system out there.
Probably do this with $3 worth of scrap.
Doug
They are very fussy to set up and a router table is a good idea. Dust collection is a must. Azek dust is staticy and will stick to every thing. I recomend the kwik block set, it make set up a whole lot faster. Make a scrap column a foot high or so to test the fit of the joints and your ability to glue up the whole thing all at once.
http://eagleamerica.com/45%B0-lock-miter-bits/p/192-1602/
http://eagleamerica.com/kwik-block-sets--lock-miter/p/486-1921/