Replies

1. 
   alesnloggers | Apr 06, 2007 07:30am | #1

   Not sure how it's usually done but I attached the window frame to a piece of angle iron set into a kerf cut into the logs. Allows the logs to settle around the window. Also stabalizes the wall if there are many openings cut through the logs. Just cut the opening taller than you think you need. Depending on the moisture content of the logs they can have significant shrinkage(sound like a Seinfeld episode).

   I think I have some pictures on my work computer. I'll post them on Tuesday if I remember

1. 
   McDesign | Apr 06, 2007 01:02pm | #2

   Please post those pix.  I'll be adding on (not log) to a newish log cabin and the owner is also interested in replacing all his single-pane windows that rack like crazy.

   Forrest

2. 
   Piffin | Apr 06, 2007 01:12pm | #3

   It sounds like this owner already has the window bucks in place? You will want to be sure they are secure and plumb in plane and the right size RO. Also check that the bucks are attached via a dado into the log wall. I used 2x2s but you can use the angle steel mentioned.

   Did you say vinal windows in a log home????

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Laumonster | Apr 06, 2007 07:26pm | #4

   Thats what the guy ordered...going up there now, i'll post more when I return.

1. 
   user-144854 | Apr 06, 2007 08:23pm | #5

   What I see most often in the semi-arid West is 2x bucks slotted & loose-screwed into the logs, generally with the sill screwed tight or nailed.  1/2" foam backer rod between the buck & logs, liberal chinking caulk, windows set with nailing fins, let-in flashing, then flat trim.  What I see second most often is window frames through-nailed to the logs, with predictable results.  Method depends greatly on climate (small or large annual humidity swings?), and type of construction -- natural round logs or consistent, milled  T&G "logs" that are field-fastened every 32" or so.

   }}}}

   Edited 4/6/2007 1:33 pm ET by Ted Foureagles

3. 
   user-67934 | Apr 07, 2007 02:48am | #6

   My door/window bucks are 1x2 channel steel notched into  the log ends attached with sheet metal screws to a 2x10 R/O frame.  Rather than use a foam backer rod, I stapled a layer of sill sealer to the side of the 2x10 that goes up against the log end.  Since the assembly sits fairly loose to allow settlement, it's hard to get either a sill sealer or foam backer rod to make a tight connection.  Caulk is your friend.