*
I worked for Wisconsin Log Homes for a couple of years, they use a conventional frame with a half log veneer siding. …i.e. a “D” shaped log about 5″ thick at it’s thickest point. I have also constructed a couple of whole log structures using logs sawed flat on two sides. Everything that has been posted here to date, is true of both styles and I would assume would hold true for any milled kit. And beware of the boasting these companies do about “DRY” logs. Even the KD logs are only passed through the kilns and the method of moisture measurement by these companies is suspect. Mostly because they are all under a product demand stress. How many of these companies do you think have the resources to let logs sit drying and seasoning for up to a year or more? Most of the mill operations I’m familiar with pound the logs through the saws so green they spit moisture off the saw blades.
That being said, and with regard to all the other comments that have been posted, I have only one question for you.
Why do you think they quit building houses out of logs?
The answer is simple. They all leak. That’s why I don’t, won’t build another one.
If you decide to go ahead any way. Go T&M, and cover your ass with a good contract when it comes to maintenance, and product failure.
Just more food for thought
Wayne
Replies
*
Fred
You may have hit the nail right on the head with the comment about the expense of a regular log construction crew. They aren't cheap. And with good reason. They know what they are getting into and usually have to travel and have lodging expenses. They've also made the investment in the tools required to do the job.
Wayne
*
I have been asked to assemble a pre manufactured log home. I can't see any reason why I should not do the job, yet I have been told by others ( with no specific reasons) to just walk away from this one. Is there something that I am missing? It is a 18'x20' cabin with a small loft and a cathedral ceiling. Why would someone be concerned by this? These are all people associated with construction. Also, any insight to a fair market price on this type of assembly? I'm in Raleigh, NC if that helps. The price is for floor system, assembling the cabin, dry in the roof, small front porch, and log siding on the gable ends.Any sq. ft. ideas? I am not looking to get rich, but I don't want to underbid either. I look forward to hearing your input. TIA
*What type of pre-manufactured logs? Manufactured implies machined. There are several types: which one? If they're real logs, what's the diameter, how much spiral in the grain, how well did the kit- builder do, do you have a crane, proper chainsaw, drawknives, slick and chisels, augers and good drills? Do you have patience and good scribing skills? Are you aware of the challenges that cavityless exterior walls bring, are your plumber and electrician? Do you have a chinking gun and the patience to fill not only joints but possibly a kabillion checks and splits and cracks? (100 hrs. 37x23x 8foot walls)No blanket inspecific warning, merely a hearty caveat.
*I'd jump at the chance to build a log cabin. I think it'd be a grand challenge. I don't think I'd "bid" it though.
*Aaron,I've built 30 some od log homes and I can't tell you how much I loath the experience. For openers consider the liabilities of an untested, unproven experiment in building.Consider flashing,shrinking,caulking,leaks, checks facing upward catching rain. Who is going to be the fall guy when happy homeowners have problem and they and fat little kit salesman look for somebody to hose. Do what you want but as for me its just a bunch of bad memories I'd just as soon forget. Bitterly yours, Allen
*Built one in 1982 from a kit from New England Log Homes, 32'x36' with front porch. Found that it presented a lot of challenges, especially in the electrical, heat, and plumbing areas. But none that you couldn't find a solution for. Installed log siding on another one ( almost 4000 sq ft) about a year ago and came across even more challenges like scribing around porch roof lines and fascias, coming out evenly on each side of doors and windows, and building and installing boxes for electrical outlets. Would do it again if the opportunity came up. Prefer to not bid it also. Found Allen was posting the same time I was and I'd like to ad that, the log kit home I described was for myself, and I did have problems with leaks with different seasonal changes in weather and some problems with logs checking as he described. Just make sure you discuss these problems with tour customer, and try to cover yourself with a good contract before starting the job.
*Run, don't walk, away from this if it is a bid. If they want it assembled most of the cabin kit folks have arrangements with contractors to do the job. That these folks aren't going that route makes me highly suspicious and curious. Either the kit manufacturer isn't really doing a good job, or the manufacturer's assembly contractors are too expensive for this customer's taste. As has been said before, lots of differences between stick and log building. Even more when it comes to kits and what the manufacturer expects the assembler to do.Now, if you just want the variety and the challenge and the owner wants to pay you on a T&M basis go for it.
*I've helped build a couple and my brothers built several. He's trying to steer clear of log homes in the future. From my experience, I dont want one. For me to build one for someone else it would have to have at least a six foot porch all the way around and conventional framed and sided gables.In other words no log walls directly exposed to the weather, they leak. Proper flashing is hard enough but the actual field of the wall can and will leak from several causes, some which remain unknown to me. All those splits, checks and knots that another poster mentioned can be potential paths for water directly to the inside. Also if this is actually milled timbers with a radius on the outside and tounge and groove top and bottom and you use traditional butt and pass outside corners you end up with at least twelve level "shelves" projecting out into the weather catching water at each corner. And I would still make it very clear in the contract that I was not responsible for any post construction maintainance, like leaks, shrinkage problems etc. I know thats a silly clause to have in a contract, that I'm not responsible if it leaks and thats why I would avoid them in the first place. I'm not crazy about any construction technique that relies heavily on sealants to stop leaks. We caulked the bejeezes out of them, between the logs as we stacked them, all the joints, checks, splits[which we try to keep in a protected area anyway] and knots after stacking, and still had problems. Maybe my brother will respond, he's had alot more experience with them than I have. Chuck PS, my experience is with "D" style spruce logs [actually milled timbers] w/ T&G top and bottom. They were cut from standing dead timber and were typically very dry so we didnt have much problem with setteling, green logs open up a whole other set of concerns.
*The kit is from a company called The Original Log Cabin Homes, I don't know where they are located.There is no scribing needed. The kit comes with seals for between each course and all the dowels and hardware to assemble. The corners just overlap and run long, I can trim those once the first floor is erected. I will have nothing to do with the plumbing or electrical aspects of the job. The owner had a larger cabin from the same company built around three years ago. He basicly did it himself, obviously with some trouble because he wan'ts me to build this one. This new cabin is to be the "pool house".I tend to agree with Jim. "What a grand challenge" about sums it up. Would you just quote a labor rate and keep the meter running? I guess my only concerns are yours as well, I don't want to bid a set price and eat it down the road. What do you think? Thanks again.
*I think I'd go T&M+15%
*I'll repeat my earlier post: "Now, if you just want the variety and the challenge and the owner wants to pay you on a T&M basis go for it." After reading all to date I still think this is the best, if you insist on doing this. As for the actual dollar amounts, when I bid T&M I tailor that to the job. There is no fixed rate to which I add or subtract a percentage.But, bet from a dollar profit point of view you end up eating your shorts on this.
*I worked for Wisconsin Log Homes for a couple of years, they use a conventional frame with a half log veneer siding. ...i.e. a "D" shaped log about 5" thick at it's thickest point. I have also constructed a couple of whole log structures using logs sawed flat on two sides. Everything that has been posted here to date, is true of both styles and I would assume would hold true for any milled kit. And beware of the boasting these companies do about "DRY" logs. Even the KD logs are only passed through the kilns and the method of moisture measurement by these companies is suspect. Mostly because they are all under a product demand stress. How many of these companies do you think have the resources to let logs sit drying and seasoning for up to a year or more? Most of the mill operations I'm familiar with pound the logs through the saws so green they spit moisture off the saw blades.That being said, and with regard to all the other comments that have been posted, I have only one question for you.Why do you think they quit building houses out of logs?The answer is simple. They all leak. That's why I don't, won't build another one.If you decide to go ahead any way. Go T&M, and cover your ass with a good contract when it comes to maintenance, and product failure. Just more food for thoughtWayne