Replies

1. 
   Jeff_Booth | Oct 12, 1999 06:26am | #1

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   The only opinion I have is that I went through the same thing and finally decided to build a stick home and put log siding on it. There was no confusion in that decision. From what I gathered though, the price is about the same, the insulation is excellent and I'm not sure about the maintenence. I believe it's harder to build, harder to wire and plumb and your interior design options are severely limited. I talked my wife into logsiding and I can't wait to build next spring. Check out www.logsiding.com. The guy named Doug there is very friendly and knowledgeable and helpful. You can email him from that site. Good luck. Hope that helped a little.

2. 
   Guest_ | Oct 12, 1999 09:33pm | #2

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   I haven't checked out log houses for a while as I have decided I like timber framed and post and beam houses better. There are many differences among what are termed "log homes". The purists insist on whole logs that are peeled and stacked up and insist that the "milled log" homes are not really log homes. These homes are sometimes just large timbers milled to a rounded outside shape or may be a 6"x8" built up out of several boards to provide the desired thickness. In the latter, some add insulation in the middle of the constructed "log". Most log home adherents claim the added thermal mass of the logs makes up for some of the lack of insulating qualities and some jurisdictions allow log homes to be built without the same requirements for insulation as in stick built houses. Other jurisdictions may require that additional insulation be added. There are also differences in whether the gable ends are logs all the way to the peak or if it is stick framed above the log walls, whether rafters are logs or actually timber framing, etc. Each type of construction has implications for the tightness of the house and how the expansion of the logs with changes in humidity must be accomodated.

   There are at least three magazines devoted log homes (although they all look about the same), a number of books (try a search on http://www.amazon.com), and I am sure that if you do a search on the WWW, you will find many things to look at. Almost every article I have seen on log homes were "booster" articles. My impression, however, is that log homes do tend to be a more expensive to construct than most stick built houses of similar size, although I don't know how they would stack up against a good timber frame house.

   To get you started are some sites I bookmarked a year or so ago:

   If you want some opinions, this site has some strong opinions:
   Log Home Builder's Association (appears to be more of a private individual's, however, lots of opinions...)
   http://www.premier1.net/~loghouse/index.html

   The above site wouldn't consider the following as a true log house as it uses lumber glued up to make the "logs"
   http://www.glulamlog.com/index.html

   and then there is the old line Airlock log homes at:
   http://www.air-lock.com/
   although the purists wouldn't consider them true log homes, either.

   how about some sample prices: http://www.qciloghomes.com/amerpric.htm#BASIC PACKAGE

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 13, 1999 12:13am | #3

   *You can search for a thread I created a few months back on this same topic. Gene posted data from studies that had been done on actual log walls. The actual R-value was quite dismal as I recall.-Rob

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 15, 1999 06:24am | #4

   *Bill, I build custom log homes exclusively and have 50 plus under my belt. I recomend you research insulated log wall systems. I now build only 2x6 frame with true half log exteriors, not siding, but half log. My 10" face heighth logs average 6" in thickness. With log in and out your wall thickness is roughly 18". The 2x6 wall cavity is filled with blown in insulation. Very air tight and energy efficient. This gives you the look of full log and the ability to plumb, electrify, and heat the way you can with conventional homes. Half log also allows for more dramatic design flexability without spending A ton on engineering and super skilled labor. ( A good carpenter can frame just about anything, but he may waiver at the site of mitering two 18" hand peeled 24' long logs) I have some awsome homes under my belt, and the best ones are the half log.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 15, 1999 08:07am | #5

   *Sounds very Interesting. I commend you for not spewing the usual log crap and the system you use sounds neat.I have a few questions. A friend (client) wants to build a log looking house, and yours is the best sounding idea yet.1 - Do you chink the siding as with full logs?2 - How do you fasten the large slabs of wood to the studs?3 - Any way of getting pistures to me?-Rob

3. 
   Robert_R._Kane | Oct 16, 1999 09:33am | #6

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   Rob-Instead of chinking, I use Sashco log builder caulk to seal the horizontal runs between the logs on the homes I build. As far as fastening the log to the wall, I spike the logs to the studs with 6" ring shank pole barn spikes, and also run 12" spikes through each course at 2 ft. intervals into the lower log courses, this prevents the logs from moving out away from the wall sheeting.This style of home is similar to conventionally framed homes, the main difference being the overall beef of the frame is greater. I won't skip A 16" o.c. for the sake of saving material, everything absolutly stacks , and where bearing points are located i'm more apt to add an additional stud or two. I also double up my window sill framing and run double shoulders on openings 4' , and tripple up anything over 5',overkill, maybe. The reason for this beef is the window trim on the exterior is sized to allow the log but ends to but into the trim and stay recessed from the face of the trim. On A 10" log sided home, I run 6x6 window and door trim.The log thickness being between 5" and 6" , the log buts nicely into the 6x6 trim allowing for A nice caulk bead and A clean finished look. I also run 2ft. and 4ft. overhangs to shed the water away from the logs as well as starting my bottom log course 12" above grade to keep the log up. 9 out of 10 homes I build have A cultured stone facing along foundation to the underside of the double cedar skirting under the first log course ( ussually A 1x8 R.S. cedar with A 1x2 R.S. cedar strip atatched flush with the top of the 1x8). The facia is also cedar double applied to A 2x6 sub facia on square cut truss or rafter tails, the gutter boys don't care for the square cut tails , but it's done for A reason. This allows for the application of tounge and groove cedar or pine soffit material. The soffit material is installed with A 2" continuos strip vent to pull air through the roof system and out the ridge vent, typically shingle vent 2. I design as well as build for my customers and there are so many small details ussually overlooked by lesser builders or those unfamilliar with this style home, I say this only as A precaution to anyone attempting A log home for the first time, those small details add up to big dollars. This is not an inexpensive style to build, it's rather expensive, and I read in log home magazines about the cost to build and nobody seems to tell it like it is, they are not innexpensive, although I have seen homes that where built inexpensivly and they truely look it, my average per sq. ft. cost ( which by the way, is A terrible way to look at A homes finished cost ) is $140, not to amazing in some areas, but i'm in central WI., A little north of cheapville, but west of frugil. I custom cut all necessary timbers and half log siding per order which allows me the option of supplying any size A custom home requires, be it A 5 3/4 x 9 1/8 timber or A 6x6 timber. All material is top notch in white pine or cedar, or it does'nt get shipped. I would be happy to send you additional info and pics and also show homes I have built in my area to perspective customers upon request. I also consult, imagine that. If I can be of any assistance, let me know, I am very much into this log home stuff, like no one I know or ever will.

4. 
   Bill_Beaty | Oct 16, 1999 09:33am | #7

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   I am considering building a log home in the Lake Tahoe area. However, after a good deal of research, I am very confused. There is a great degree of disagreement on the expense to build, maintenance, and degree of insulation in these homes. Does anyone have an opinion?