Replies

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Nov 07, 1999 07:44am | #1

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   Steve, you could try mounting the boxes horizontally, or, if the client agrees, maybe use flat stock as a wide baseboard-like starter course with the boxes mounted horizontally in that and then start the "logs". Also, if you can't use the flat stock idea and aren't adverse to a little "custom" creativity.... you might try building a little form that mimics the log and outlet box inserted horizontally, attach a cover plate and put it in the oven for a little heat induced reforming. (I don't know of any commercially available curved plates). There are custom shops that work with plastic and metal that might take on the job for a small (heh,heh,heh) fee. Happy designing, Ralph

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 07, 1999 11:11am | #2

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   I had a log home once and the way it was done there was with recesses. The logs were cut so the top an bottom edge of the wall plate were flush and the center was recessed. I think it looked nice.

   Jerry

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 08, 1999 04:07am | #3

   *Hello Steve, About a year ago I was contracted out to install 10,000 lineal ft. of log siding on the exterior of a 4500 sq. ft. home. The owners liked the way it looked so much that they wanted it installed on an interior wall of their great room. I was faced with the same problem as to what to do with the electrical plug boxes not only on the interior wall but also on the exterior porch wall where GFCI's were located. As I was installing my siding I managed to drill a 1" hole right in the center of my siding board where the electrician had placed his wire. He left a little extra wire so that I had enough wire to place my box location in the center or highest part of the log circumfrence. When it became time to install a box, I took some 3/4" pine and scribed the sides to the circumfrence profile. Then I rabbetted top and bottom for my little box extensions. I carefully matched and cut the bevels for the top and bottom and I attached the box extensions to the siding with pocket screws that I placed on the inside. The boxes probably didn't stick out beyond the siding more than 1-3/4", just enough to house the electrical box and wiring. The size,(width & height) was just enough to fit a box inside and about 1/4" was revealed after the cover was installed. The homeowners were pleased with the outcome. Ihope this helps you out. Good luck with your project. MDM.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 14, 1999 05:41am | #4

   *Thanks for the input Ralph, I had considered mounting the boxes horizontally, but was searching for ways to eliminate having to move the existing boxes, which are currently installed and drywalled in. oh well guess its time to get some old work boxes and start bustin' drywall.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 14, 1999 05:43am | #5

   *Thanks Jerry, gues im gonna have to move some boxes

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 14, 1999 05:56am | #6

   *Hey MDM, thanks for the detailed reply, I'm really trying to make the boxes dissapear. not gonna happen I guess. I like your idea for some switch boxes I have to deal with. coincidentally I also got the job of doing the interior after doing the exterior. I get to cover ALL the exterior walls, so I guess I'll be Pretty Good at it by the time I'm through. Thanks again, Steve

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 14, 1999 09:38am | #7

   *Have fun Steve, The house that we did was a real experience. First off all of the exterior trim that went around windows, doors, and corner boards were installed by the framers who used 3/4" material first, then went over it with 2x lumber. This was done so that the thickest part of the log would stay recessed below the edge of the trim boards; however when the framers installed all this trim they wern't very picky on the boards they chose. some 2x4's and2x6's had wain and they placed the wain to the inside of the wall. This created a problem when the siding was butted against it as you would see a space right down to the insulation board at the thinnest parts of the siding. In this case we had to replace the trim boards before we could continue with our sideing. We could make pretty decent time when we came to a wall without windows or porch overhangs but when we did come across these obsticals our speed dropped big time. All in all the job turned out quite well and as I look back it was fun. Right after completion of that house we contracted another new house wanting the same siding on a back porch wall and 2 inside walls. We installed our own exterior trim boards on this project and ended up completeing the job ahead of schedule. One interior wall in this house had built in speakers for a sound system and I made up frames similar to the boxes I described earlier which turned out quite well also. The siding we put up came from Ozark MO. was a soft pine andwas milled with a tongue and groove. With the exception of the starter course we blind nailed the siding with a clipped head nailer and galvanized nails. Good luck with your project. Frank Maglin.

3. 
   Guest_ | Nov 15, 1999 04:40am | #8

   *Either cut a square hole out and insert a wooden block for your base or take a router and recess the area flat.Pete Draganic

3. 
   Mad_Dog | Nov 16, 1999 04:43am | #9

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   If you want the boxes to disappear, maybe you could save or
   make some cutouts that would hinge and flip shut when not in
   us

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Nov 16, 1999 07:26am | #10

   *Disappearing electrical outlets? Hmmmmmmm... My dad gave me a small box that was faced to look like a miniature bookcase, complete with books. In order to open the box you had to find the hidden keyhole - It was behind a sliding book spine, as was the key. How about a piano hinge on the bottom of a length of log face - pull it down and open, like a sink base false front. Who said that electrical outlets had to be so far off the floor or even in the wall proper? . . How about in trim or in window sill aprons or in the floor? Have you ever mounted an outlet in a drawer? Under a countertop? In a DRAWER!! Do you have time on your hands? In the face of these "logs", using the cutout as the drawer front, build a really miniature working drawer that slides in and out of the wall on little runners, mount your outlet face up in the drawer. Find some interesting little drawer pulls (hehehehe) Comments? Ralph

4. 
   Guest_ | Nov 22, 1999 05:48am | #11

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   Thanks for all the advice and input guys, the project is currently on hold... THE CLIENT is doing their own painting before I install the veneer. They needed time to finish and possibly run to the store for more razor blades to get alll that paint off the windows. Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 22, 1999 06:07am | #12

   *MDM, Well I didnt have to deal with someone elses trim. we created window casings by ripping the siding in half and then ripping a 34 in flat on the inside. (the siding was of a shiplap design) which I picture framed the windows with. so no concealed edges. but with a little accuracy looked great. I did make it easier on the gabels by covering the board ends with a freize board type type detail which almost looks like crown moulding when I turned the corner and continued on the level portions of the building. (we bumped up against existing aluminum soffit) Allin all a very satisfying job. I enjoy getting out of the day to day staples of our existence! thanks for the time, Steve

5. 
   Mad_Dog | Nov 24, 1999 05:34am | #13

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   Heehee, Steve, what do they want to do, see out of them?
   Then why paint the glass?

   MD

6. 
   Guest_ | Jan 04, 2000 11:41pm | #14

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   I am currently involved in a project installing 1 and a half inch thick x 7in tall "log siding" on the interior of a house. the problem is how to fit electrical boxes and covers ect. on the radiused surface of the logs, without using large frames or setting them back in deep recesses. any ideas?