long tall steel partition walls question
Hello and thank you in advance for any and all input.
20′ long partition walls , steel studs 10′ high 3 5/8″ wide with 1/2 gyp on both sides. It”s a commercial space (mall), I don’t usually do comercial spaces.
Basically I want to know how and how often I should tie the walls into the roof trusses (13′ above the floor)?
Replies
Not built yet? and ceiling is not exposed? Straight runs, free standing, no corners of end connections?
I would run angled kickers up from the top plate to "something" firm to fasten to, once on ea. end and once in the middle. Ingenious framing to tie off partitions. If you run a u-shaped reinforcing steel bar down the center of a row of knockouts about mid-span, that'll stiffin it up too. You'll still need the kicks up top.
Depending on the type of roof system and the possibility for deflection, you might have to make up a connection that will allow for movement from snow or water load.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Zooey,
"How often?" Use the 8' rule-o'-thumb.
"How?" If roof deflection is not an issue, use 1/2 a stud or channel (5').
If it is an issue, use a full length piece. The longer length will minimise any transference of movement.
Cut the sides for interference, and screw 'em to the top channel of the wall then screw, or nail, weld, clamp, etc. to the roof joists. Put all braces on the same side of any given wall. Don't brace near (<6') corners or Tees.
SamT
Any advice for stiffening a 12' 6" steel wall in an apartment? The ceiling and floor are concrete.I'm framing with metal for the first time in a tall space, and the wobble is pretty significant.
healthy bead of glue and 5/8th drywall.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I was answering the "stiffening" q ... forgot about the "tie in" part ..
I like every 4 ft.
and Cal is right ... they make internal bracing.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
That "U" reinforcement (it's run through the holes in the studs) will add some stiffness. But, don't forget, the drywall will add a considerable bit of stiffness to the wall, as does bumping up a gauge size or two for taller walls. For 12 and a half tall walls, you probably ought to be using 24 or 26ga (and of course my galv stud book is at work)--but may be moot, since you'll likely half to buy 14 footers anyway.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
The board will stiffen, but the U shaped channel reinforcement run horizontal through the knockouts will help alot. Run through at the approx 6 ft ht. Two pc and overlap if you cannot push through from one end. 20 ga stud would help a bit, could even add a couple of those in the wall, tie off to existing stud. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Welcome to Breaktime, first off.
You'll probably find out some things here real quick, like the studs are 3 1/2, as almost no one forms 3 5/8 galvanized any more; and the rock for commercial work is all 5/8" (and is Type "X" most of the time anyway--or the fire code rated is the same price as the not-rated).
Typical specs I 'v built to (and written) are to carry the partition wall up to the deck usually every 4' O.C. depending on how far away the structure above is. The other way is either a "V" from the top channel perpendicular to the wall every 6-8', or alternating diagonals from top channel to structure above perpendicular to the wall ever 4-6'.
The diagonal bracing at right angles probably makes the stiffer wall overall, but is always the most hassle fitting around duct and other mechanical work.
a 45 degree kicker from the top of the wall to tie in with the roof structure every 4' o.c., alternating sides