Replies

1. 
   Ted_Weddell | Aug 25, 2000 04:55am | #1

   *
   This is obviously the result of hiring the
   b cheapest
   contractor to bid on the project. Otherwise I'm sure he would have been replaced long ago. How big a crew does this "looser" (as you call him) have? And how big is the house? How complex is the design?

   Stick building you say. Have you seen his other projects? Was he available right away? ie, not booked up. Why do you think that is?

   Don't worry about the mildew. It won't hurt anything once it dries out. But you might want to evaluate your business practises.

   Pardon my harshness but calling your contractor a "looser" reflects both sides of a story that I for one dont want to hear.

1. 
   Bill_Holroyd | Sep 24, 2000 02:07am | #2

   *Kerry, A solution of bleach and TSP - they have phosphate free - should do the trick. please don't cover it up with mildew on it that makes it more difficult for me to bid the repairs when they will be needed in the future. thanks BIll P.S. good luck

1. 
   Greg_Trudeau | Oct 11, 2000 10:00pm | #3

   *The house next door to mine was heavily damaged in a fire. During the rebuild process, the contractor stripped of all the lath and plaster down to the studs, then coated the bare wood with shellac to seal in the odor. This might be a good solution in your case.

1. 
   tedd_weyman | Oct 11, 2000 10:58pm | #4

   *Although I hear many people recommending how to get rid of molds (eg mildew), there is virtually no way to do it -- save removing the material affected. Bleach and scrubing and sealing up afterwards will retard it but you cannot kill the spores this way -- they can last decades and will resurface when the conditions are right. You can't see the spores either - they are too small.But, if the conditions are wrong for mold growth, they don't resurface. So it depends upon the environment you create on top of that plywood. If its kept dry and the surrounding humidity levels don't remain high, it won't like the wall and it won't grow. THis is case where cellulose, not fiberglass would be preferred because the hydrophobic qualities of FG send inner wall cavity moisture to adjacent framing members and sheathing. On the outside, proper water barriers like house wrap or tar paper will keep the bulk water away. Proper weatherization of door, sill, plate and window edges and connections are additional practices that should be used anyway.Lots of houses have mildew in the walls that grow after the house is build and can't be seen outside. Preventing penetration of moisture (humidity, dew point condensation and frost, and bulk water) will avoid the microclimate prefered by molds and fungi.

2. 
   Kerry_Lizon | Oct 11, 2000 10:58pm | #5

   *
   Our framer started stick building our house at the end of May. We've had a ton of rain here and he's been a loser in terms of getting the job done. They've just finished putting the plywood on the roof. All of the plywood and lumber has black mildew spots on it. Should we spray the entire house with bleach or something before going any further? Kerry