looking for detail ideas with b&b siding
Getting set to side a 12×24 shed, 12:12 gable roof, with 1×8 rough hemlock, which I plan to leave unpainted–going for the rustic look. Looking for ideas on details such as the corners, apron, frieze, and door/window trim. Anybody have pictures they’d like to share?
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Can you get roughsawn 2x4 and 2x6 lumber? We can here, and that is what is used for door and window trim when rustic rules.
I would do a water table out of the hemlock, with a milled cap that slopes. Pad out the water table so its face is 1-1/4 out from furring or sheathing, run your corner boards (the roughsawn 2x6s) to the bottom, butt the water table to the corners. If you rabbet the siding side of the corner boards, your first adjacent boards can slide under.
Thanks for sharing your methods. Yes, I can get just about any rough size I want around here. That sounds like a good method.I was planning to fasten the 1x8 directly onto the wall studs and blocking, so the 2x6 would extend out another full inch. That may be a bit much though--then again this is a fairly large shed and at that scale it might come across OK.
I'm reading your "rough lumber" as being 1" thickness, thus your 1x board plus 1x batten has the face of battens out at the 2-inch plane.
Cornerboards of 2x6 rough (one of them with 2" ripped off so the corner faces are equal) will have their outer plane flush to the battens . . . perfect!
What you want to do is complete your design with that 2" thick bevel-top molding, atop a water table board of your 1x8 that is furred out maybe 3/8". It's face is now 1-3/8" out from wall line, its molding atop has its lip out at 2", both butt to the full-length cornerboard edge.
Send pics when completed!
Ah, now I gotcha. Of course, forgot about the battens.
Wondering about paint or some kind of finish on just the trim--don't normally paint rough lumber but it might make a nice effect. I also have some semi-transparent finish that would look downright cool.
I used that effect on a gable end here:
View Image
I sketched up what I previously described. Here it is.
Very nice 'drawing'. Quite explanatory.
And a msg to Megunticook - Tho' I would put building paper behind the water table 1st, then the WT, then some non-return drip over that. Then hang the BP or Tyvek down over the NRD (sorry for init'ls,etc). When the b and b is installed (with a bevel at the bottom edge), leave 1/4" gap to stop water wicking back or getting absorbed by the end-grain.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Edited 11/9/2005 1:09 am by piko
B&B sheds water well, except for horizontal trim elements - for that reason I don't like the water table idea, attractive tho it is - water running down the boards will get between wooden elements and that will become the area of failure, sooner or later -
a couple of suggestions - install window and door frames so as to be at the same plane as the board siding - stand a board up beside each opening and secure - fill in the areas above/below the windows/doors with boards, adjusting width as necessary to come out even - now your battens can trim between the window/door frames and the boards -
no horizontal trim above windows/doors, unless in an area that water will not run down to become trapped between elements (under an eave or portico) - instead, flash with metal 'L' from the nailers extending past window/door frame and stop you boards and battens above the flash 'kick' an inch or so -
bevel the ends of the boards and battens @ 45* so to have a drip edge -
I like to bevel the sides of the battens @ 60*, makes a nice refinement and helps them lay flat and minimizes cupping -
Your choice of rustic looks -- how rustic ya want?
If you rip your battens at varying widths, then the finished look will be of random-width boards, and random-width battens. That would be just a bit more rustic looking than every board being even.
I also agree strongly with those who have suggested a water table, and flashing, and back-cutting the bottom edge of the boards to match the angle of the water table, and keeping the gap between the bottom of the boards and the water table.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.