Hello. I’m a forum newbie–owner renovator for about 15 years on some fairly large DIY projects.
I’m doing my first addition. Part of it has a low-slope shed roof (1.5/12) that will be covered with asphalt shingles to match the rest of the house. The MFGs installation instructions only cover slopes to 2.0/12 (felt paper lapped 19″). Can anyone recommend a suitable underlayment that will work with a lower slope? I’m thinking something like a bitumen self-adhering membrane, but am open to any suggestions that I can do myself without special equipment.
The second question has to do with the intersection of this same shed roof with the end of a gable roof. A cross section of the intersection looks like an uppercase V with the left-hand side of the V, the side wall of the shed roof) plumb. What would be the best way to detail this to prevent leaking? Again, I’m thinking a bitumen membrane, but flashing comes to mind too. (BTW, if that description is unclear, I could post a picture.)
I’d like these details to last for at leaset the life of the shingles (30-40 years).
Regards,
Steve Mann
Replies
If you insist on shingles, use Ice and water shield over the whole shebang, and cheat the exposeure of the shingles down to 4" to the weather. I have heard that helps alot, but no real first hand exp.
I think your asking for trouble tho'.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
That's the way I wopuld do it for a 2/12 to 3/12 but for lower slopes like this one, I would not even try it. I've been called to repair a dozen of these things where they tried every which way to do it and failed or had leaks within a few years.Problem partly is that the headlap creates a dimnension at the butts so while the overalll slope is 1.5/12, the surface slope for each individual shingle is slightly less than 1/12, depending onthe type and thickness of the shingle. So you can have water actually permanently puddling under the tabs. After ten years, even if the I&W keeps most of the water out of the house, the shingles are rotted and ice damaged with gree stuff gorwing in, under, and around...
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Yeppers..my 2 .5 " slope shed roof is less than 7? Y.O.
Started to leak this winter way up by the top, Gotta tear off and do something different. Like I got nuthin else to do here..LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
I've got a similar question. I've just looked at a shed roof with less than a 1/12 pitch. The homeowner wants it waterproofed this year with the intent of building a deck right over top in the future. The roof comes right off the master bedroom garden doors. Will the polyglas work in this application and are there any other precautions I should take. We live in northern Manitoba so we get a lot of expansion and contraction.
I use EPDM for that sort of application. A deck is an expensive thing to take a part if you have any leaks
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Panger
I agree that a single ply membrane would be good for your application. If you could get that roof slope down to 1/4" per foot (minimum slope per IBC), there are membranes available that could be used for the deck floor. I forget what they are, but they have been covered in FHB before. I raised a concern about spiked heels and smoldering cigarette butts, but the product has an impressive history. I believe the membrane material is something other than rubber or EPDM, but I don't recall what it is.
If you can't reduce the slope, go ahead with any reliable membrane and place the deck floor in removable panels. Most manufacturers provide a slip sheet to place under loose laid supports which allow for differential movement without ripping the membrane. Sweets.com can lead you to most of the big boys in the business, but there are other similar catalog websites out there for that.
Itis inappropriate to use any shingles on such a low slope. I&W shield will help, but I can gaurantee that it will not last for more than ten years.
You say "The life of the shingles" but you should know that the manufacturere will not warrantee the life of the shingles when installed on that low slope. Not only will the slow drainage promote leaks, but will shorten the life of the shingles by keeping them wetter longer and holding ice.
For low slope roofs you are better off geting a peel and stick membrane with the same coloured chips on surface and reinforcement as the shingles. Polyglas is what I use here. There are other brands.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
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Yeah,,,what you said.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
yeah, what you said he said!
Thanks for the strong advice. I'll take a look at Polyglass.Regards,
Steve Mann
Since you're apparently in the design stage, is this low-slope roof really necessary? Nothing in the way of materials takes the place of a good roof slope to prevent leaks.
Alternatively, maybe the entire roof needs to be metal. Just another idea.
I'm right now in the repair stages of a 3 1/2 year old owens corning , oakridge 30 on a 2 1/2"/12". The same thing happens, water pools between courses, then runs out days later between shingle layers (the course above is dry, the course below is wet, draining from above). I think I'm going to have to EPDM the whole thing as a warranty. I've torn it off and used Grace on the entire roof (11/04) and the grace didnt adhere at the overhang because water is still flowing behind the drip edge. The only other solution is to custom bend a tall drip that dumps into the gutter and Karnak the edge with grace over top. This won't stop the mold issue discussed earlier though. I'm torn!?!?
You may want to check your building code for roof slopes. I agree with all the others that low slope shingles are not the answer. The suggestions for metal roofing are good ones for aesthetic applications, while the membrane roofs are ok for utilitarian applications. Some cautions for the metal roofs, though , are to get concealed fasteners, allow for expansion and contraction of the metal in the long direction, and properly close the bottom and top ends of the panels.