I want to build a gazebo ( or arbor if you call it that) on my existing deck. The greatest span will be 14 feet ( i.e.longest beam). Located in Michigan.
Here are my questions:
– Do not want to use treated lumber ( too heavy and two ugly) and will not have any ground contract to worry about.
-Would construction grade pine be ok and, if so, how should it be finished or treated?. Would not mind a painted surface. I would build the posts out of 1 by 6 by 8s.
-What about cedar or would it split easily? ( will use screws to assemble posts and could drill poilet holes)
– what type of screws should be used? Brass etc? Also what type of bolt or whatever should be used to secure the main beams to the posts
-Longest unsupported distance on main beams will be about 10 feet. Will have 10 “secnd tier” short cross members ( 2 by 6s by 10 feet) on top of main beams . Could I use 2 by 6s or 2 by 8s for the main beams? Woud like to keep weight down.
I am not a contractor, but a retiree, so construction time is not a critical factor.
Thanks
Replies
I'll jump in on this, though you should try to get more expert input. I worked for a framing carpenter and we built a couple decks while I worked for him. One I liked a lot had cedar decking--1x6's. I think we just nailed the cedar to the joists with galvanized nails, but I would think stainless steel screws would be better. I would use galvanized anchors to attach the frame to the posts. Anyway, just thoughts from someone slightly more experienced than an amatuer. Others who know more may have different and better ideas. By the way, I did work in Michigan.
Welcome to Breaktime, Rod.
Cedar would be appropriate unless you want to replace things early. Around here (Vancouver, Canada) pine can rot out in 5-8 years. Not really an option, unless you plan on selling the place. That's MY opinion. Even though I can nail/screw into the deck, use some kind of spacer between the legs and the deck so water can drain and the boards dry out under the legs.
In cedar, I prefer stainless steel hardware. Galvanized can tarnish. You can also use coated screws - I don't know what kinds you get there.
I don't have my span tables here - could you check with city hall? Cedar is softer than many other woods so I would say 2x8 at a minimum.
Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the Handyman
Vancouver, Canada
I like to use California Redwood... Not cheap here in Florida, but it holds up very well even down here in wet soggy climate that kills untreated pine in no time. We also use Cypress a lot down here... It's a native wood and is not expensive. I always recoment the customers spray the arbor, pergola... whatever you call it; with a good deck sealer every couple years too... When you spray your deck (or should). This keeps the wood looking good a lot longer and helps prevent drying out and spliting.
As Brick mentioned, Cypress, good exterior wood and it isnt all that pricy. Cedar is ok but usually its knoty as all hell, the clean cedar is expensive.
Doug
I may have steered you wrong on the dimensions of the cedar we used--it may have been 5/4 x 4. Hard to remember, but we did space them for drainage and put them on diagonally (and pitched the deck away from the house).
I'm in Ontario...I would expect Michigan to have similar lumber availability, but I could be mistaken.
Redwood is an exotic, but cedar is plentiful, and will last. It won't split, at least not like pressure treated.
It will turn gray over time; use a semi-transparent stain if you want to retain the color.
Use stainless steel fasteners; galvanized can discolor/stain. NOT brass - too weak.
Use 1/2" bolts. You should be able to get stainless.
You could probably, by your building code, use 2x6 beams, but assuming you obtain building permits, you can check with your building inspector. I'm not sure why you're concerned with keeping the weight down (sore back?), but cedar is lighter than pine. I'd use 2x8's.
Regards,
TimR