Hello all,
I’ve got a shed roof that needs the fascia boards replaced. Given the roof design the fascia is actually the end rafter on each end of the roof. Since straight lumber is so hard to find these days, I’d like to use 2×10 lvl to really get nice straight roof lines.
I’d really like to use ClearLam ( http://www.pacificwoodlaminates.com/products/fascia.php ), which is an MDO wrapped lvl, but unfortunately it’s not available in my area (Dallas TX).
I’m planning on priming and painting the boards to keep moisture out. In fact, after the soffit panels are installed, and if I use a 1/4″ facing material, the only exposed part will be the lower edge. To deal with that I was even thinking of epoxy coating the lams as well. Any other suggestions re: weatherproofing? I don’t want this stuff to de-lam anytime soon.
Any experience with cedar creek lvl? It’s what my preferred yard carries.
Thanks in advance.
Andrew…
Replies
Other than it is made for interiors and cost a ton....
They make PT LVL..expect 2x or 3x the cost of non treated.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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I forgot to say that, good catch.
I'd never heard of PT lvl. I'll look into it. Will it take paint well?
Dunno..I saw the ad in issue 201 of FHB.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Yes, but you are going way overboard with this. money, weight, etc...and will look like H3llI knw the western styles esp inmountains use larger face from full size lumber like this, but they are usually not painted so I am perplexed on that one.But by using a piece for facia that is three times as heavy as cedar, you make installation much much harder and you add a lot of weight to a free hanging overhang possibly. Could sag on some structures...So think this through all the way to anticipate the consequences.
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The way I read it, there is no overhang. Last rafter is the fascia nailer. Or the actual fascia.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I imagined half a doxen different detailings so I am not too sure what is going on. Just seems like massive overkill.
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Thanks for the reply. Let's see if I can clarify my situation. My current shed roof is a simple rectangle consisting of 2x8's 16" OC. The existing end rafter, which also doubles as the fascia board, is a 2x8 with and additional 3/4" x 1-1/2" piece tacked above to increase the height to allow for recessed soffit panels. It is structural. It supports the roof overhanging the wall, but is itself supported underneath by several 4x12's that cross it at several points along its length.For this reason, my intention is to replace one structural member with another of more or less the same dimension. My main concern has to do with the weatherability of lvls and what if anything can be done to seal them up. They are more expensive than solid lumber, but they are also lighter and straighter, so they seemed a good candidate if they can be made weatherproof/resistant.Hope that makes sense.Thanks.
"They are more expensive than solid lumber, but they are also lighter and straighter, "Straight yes, but NO WAY lighter
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Many manufacturers make the lighter claim, but perhaps they are comparing it's weight versus a solid beam of comparable strength, which would presumably be a larger dimension timber.In any case good catch since I am talking about more or less swapping a 2x10 for another 2x10.Andrew...
It may be lighter relative to how much load it can carry, but it is definitely heavier as an individual piece - noticeably so. Would absolutely not be a job for one man with out some special tricks up his sleeve.
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They are not lghter. When I read that sentence, I thought of a TJI like a floor joist. That isn't what you mean is it??? Maybe if you are going to be painting this structural end rafter, and are concerned with rot because it is exposed, maybe you could consider pressure treated 2x10 or 8 or whatever you've got there now. No more rot, way cheaper than a glue lam. Doesn't sound like there is any need for it.
I bet you can find a couple straight 2x10s... LVL seems like a waste of money for that situation.
2x10 fascia? that seems huge. Would 2x6 look better? What about a nice piece of cedar?
Rich
LVL isn't made to be exposed to weather. Since paint is never perfect, I doubt you could keep it completely dry.
LVL can take on some pretty wicked curls when it gets wet on one side only. If the outside face gets wet and the inside is dry, your fascia could suddenly be SERIOUSLY cupped.
Sounds like a bad idea to me.
Good point about the imperfect paint and warping. That's why I was thinking of sealing the exposed lams with some sort of epoxy sealer. This may seem like a fair amount of extra work to make an interior product work outside, but I'm tired of fighting crappy materials, which cancel out good workmanship at nearly every turn.Thanks.