Replies

1. 
   Mongo_ | May 30, 2001 06:06am | #1

   *
   Bill,

   I'd venture you could treat this much the same way I treat ipe/Pau Lope. First, though, I'd recommend you contact the manufacturers of the products listed below and get a firm answer on how the product will perform on your specific wood. Both companies have been very generous with me when I've sent technical questions their way.

   Here's what I do with ipe...

   Seal the end cuts with a product like Anchor Seal (UC Products). One time deal.

   From then on out, it depends on how you want the boards to look...do you want them to weather to a nice gray, or stay brown?

   If gray, a wood stabilizing agent like Seasonite (Flood) should be applied before exposing the boards to sun exposure.

   If you want to keep the brown "new wood" look, consider using something like Penofin (Performance Coatings). This will have to be periodically renewed with the frequency depending on the wood's solar exposure. Figure once a year, maybe once every two years.

   Once again, I'd contact Flood and Performance.

   Sounds like a nice project, congratulations.

1. 
   Rebildit_ | May 30, 2001 01:28pm | #2

   *Thanks for the suggestions, the customer does want to keep the new wood look. Penofin had been suggested, I was hoping and looking for additional confirmation (which you have provided). One question, do you feel it is necessary to sand the decking first to open the pores or simply apply the product as is? I will contact the manufacturer as well. Thanks again, Bill

1. 
   Mongo_ | May 30, 2001 05:54pm | #3

   *Re: sanding...It really depends on the condition of the wood. If the wood has sat out, exposed to the elements, and thus has already started the "aging process," I'd sand. If you wipe it down with oil and it shows mill marks (sometimes not visible to the nekked eye right off the rack), I'd sand. If, in the installation process, the wood gets dinged and dirtied a bit...I'd sand.With ipe, my supplier keeps the wood in a lumber shed and tarped. When it comes on site, I keep it tarped. It's not fully enclosed, the idea is to keep the sun off it but still allow air circulation.You have a large deck, you may even want to Penofin the installed decking at the end of each day...otherwise at the end of a 4-day install, some boards are "new" while others have "aged" 4 days. It may sound silly, but even one day of good sunlight can cause subtle differences between wood installed on Day One vs Day Two, Three or Four. With a multi-day installation it can help prevent "striping" caused by uneven solar-induced oxidation.It may sound like a small point, but the lumberyard showed me pics of sun-induced striping on a deck, it's something you'd never want to see on your job.Again, my experiences are with ipe...though arguments could be made that the two woods are somewhat similar.Regards, Mongo

1. 
   Rebildit_ | May 30, 2001 08:09pm | #4

   *Thanks again for the info, I just got off the phone with the technical support at Performance and they tell me to wash the mahogany with Simple Green and a stiff broom. Let it sit out and air dry for 48 hours and then your are good to go with the Penofin. The guys at the local lumberyard wanted me to sand with 60 grit first (sounded brutal to me) and Performance said definitely not, they said it might even have the reverse affect of closing the grain as opposed to opening it up for the sealant. I am going with their advice, wish me well. Thanks again, Bill

1. 
   Rebildit_ | May 30, 2001 08:10pm | #5

   *By the way, I like the idea of resealing the newly installed boards after each day's installation. Sounds like good advice. Bill

2. 
   Dave_Day | May 31, 2001 01:33am | #6

   *I just finished a cambara deck I used the new cabot austrailian timber oil, amber, bottom befor install then top as soon as posible remember to space .25 " and predrill w/#10 bit and use #9 3.5" screws,3 to a joist. Cambara can be a nightmare if not installed right and that takes time.

3. 
   Rebildit_ | May 31, 2001 04:54am | #7

   *Where are you located? The spacing sounds o.k.(maybe just a smidge heavy) to me but three 3.5" screws per board sounds like a lot of screw and a lot of screws. I was planning on two 2.5" stainless steel square drive screws per board, predrilled and set flush. That is 1.5 inch into each joist two times per board, I don't want this deck to look like it was hit with a strafing run, any other thoughts on screw placement and size????? anybody?????

4. 
   Mongo_ | May 31, 2001 05:29am | #8

   *Eb-ty gets you away from the bullet holes in your deck. I just wish the product wasn't so expensive. It does make for a clean deck, though.

5. 
   Dave_Day | Jun 01, 2001 01:31am | #9

   *RE I'm in sw ct the reason for the 3 screws is cambara has to be held down tight and allowed to move hence the oversized predrill. this material will split if you overdrive screws or if you tweek it too much. I used #9 3.5" screws because they were the only #9's I found DECKMATE tan or green, sorry only Home Depot carry them, I don't like the look of stainless with cambara, that sun thing FWOW I learned the hard way good luck

6. 
   Rebildit_ | Jun 01, 2001 02:53pm | #10

   *Dave, I am in the same area (deck is happening in Easton). I have not logged onto this site often enough to know all the shorthand, what is "FWOW" and what do you mean by that sun thing on the stainless screws. I follow you with the oversize predrill, but you lost me elsewhere. Thanks again. Bill

7. 
   Dave_Day | Jun 02, 2001 01:27am | #11

   *Bill, I live in Wilton and work mostly in Weston. Sorry about the fwow, it was a spelling error ie. for what its worth. Anyway I don't like the stainless screws for two reasons, 1 they stand out visually more than a ceramic screw, 2 they are more prone to breaking when driving. Stainless steel is alot weaker than iron steel. Just a question where did you get the cambara, I went to Rings End Darien of course!! good luck

8. 
   Ray_Schwalb | Jun 02, 2001 02:01am | #12

   *What penofin product are you using? They seem to have a variety of products that can be used on decks.

9. 
   Rebildit_ | Jun 02, 2001 06:31am | #13

   *Penofin Ultra Premium red label transparent red cedar is the product I was told to use by Penofin for Mahogany that you want to keep as close as possible to new wood look.

10. 
    Rebildit_ | Jun 02, 2001 06:42am | #14

    *Dave,because the job was in East on I set up delivery out of Bethel (Ring's End). I am in the Darien store too often to count, but found at least one guy in Bethel willing to work hard to impress me and because it was such a large deck fighting for the sale (dollar wise). The delivery only arrived yesterday and of course the 4 x 4s looked like garbage, sending them back, but the decking looked great. Washed about half of it (as per Penofin instructions) covered it with a tarp/roof off the deck with the hopes that if it is not still raining on Monday we might try sealing the first batch.I ave used Hd's screws alot for a variety of things but never felt confident that the finish would not fade or rust out in the weather. Do you have anything that's been out in exposure for a long time (like the deck you were talking about)? How did they hold up?By the way, I've probably run into you somewhere, I live in the south end of town. My kid's are both Wahoos.Bill

11. 
    Dave_Day | Jun 03, 2001 01:55am | #15

    *Bill, no problem with the screws fadeing or rusting, but its only been 2 or 3 years. If you use the bit that comes with them it reduces spinout and protects the finish. I have to mention spacing again because it's real important. Cambara won't shrink, only swell I use a 1/4" scrap of plexiglass for a spacer and while talking to the salesman at R.E. , he mentioned good drainage is important. All the 4/4's have surface splits no extra charge $9/ft. I can only add , take your time and do it right and the client will love it even if it costs 5 times a P.T. job. stay dry,Dave

12. 
    Lino_Trillo | Jun 03, 2001 05:30pm | #16

    *I would' use the stainless steel 2.5" and a dot of construction adhesive to help support just as precautionary measure. If I was doing it and had the time I would' do differently, I would' use pocket holes, or the new deck track (screw to the frame and to the board with no visible screws), or a least plugs to hide the screws head at all costs. Good luck

2. 
   Rebildit_ | Jun 03, 2001 05:30pm | #17

   *
   I searched the site and was not able to find any threads on recommended finishes for a mahogany exterior deck. Planning on a 5/4 x 6 cambara mahogany deck (around 1100 square feet) and want to prefinish the material. I desperately want to get it right, any thoughts?
   Thanks in advance,
   Bill Heyde