Here is this week’s roof flashing discussion.
We’ll have a wood-framed chimney chase box sticking out of the roof, and we’ll use a cultured stone facing on the box. The thickness of the faux stone facing is estimated at a little over 2 inches.
We want to detail out the flashing to look the way a real stone chimney would be flashed, rather than what is typically done with a cultured stone stack.
Along the “non-gabled” edge, we’ll be using a venting flash assembly by Gibraltar Air-Vent called “filter vent flash.” We’ll counterflash over it with copper. We’ll want to counterflash over the step flashing we’ll interweave with the shingles, over the stepped blocking at the “gable side.”
Please refer to the attached drawing.
I haven’t worked before with the copper roofing specialist that will do this flashing, and so want to be as informed about methods as possible, before listening to how he plans to do it.
My questions are . . . how many pieces of copper flash would make up the stepped end? How much shop or field tinning might there be to get this totally weatherproof? For the copper counter, is it best to do all the copper work first, before the diamond lath and scratch coat on the CDX, and then lath and mud over? Or after?
Or maybe there is a better way to do this. Your comments are appreciated.
Replies
My questions are . . . how many pieces of copper flash would make up the stepped end?
One for each "step" plus another for each verticle.
How much shop or field tinning might there be to get this totally weatherproof?
I'd fabricate it in the shop and solder it in the field.
For the copper counter, is it best to do all the copper work first, before the diamond lath and scratch coat on the CDX, and then lath and mud over? Or after?
The copper work would need to be done first. The stone, lathe, mud, etc. are the REAL counter flashing. The exposed copper on the gable sides is only flashing the fake "steps" you're going to build.
I'll have it done right on schedule...................Mine.