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Discussion Forum

Making an access door for a firewall.

xxPaulCPxx | Posted in General Discussion on January 29, 2006 08:20am

The wall between my garage and kitchen has alot of mechanicals going on behind it.  Various water lines, gas, electrical.  I’ve got 3 different areas I’d like to make access doors for.  I have not yet installed the 5/8″ double layer drywall yet.

A quick check online showed prices starting at about $100 per unit for a fire rated access panel, and I need about 5 of them.  I’d like to make them myself, and I’d like to know if there are any things I need to know.

Any guidelines for making a firewall access panel?

Here is what I’ve got so far – this is a top down view:

View Image

Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

Also a CRX fanatic!

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Replies

  1. User avater
    JeffBuck | Jan 29, 2006 10:14am | #1

    why not just make a map of all the stuff ... then cover it all up.

    if and when U ever need to open it up ... cut thru the 5/8th then patch.

    sounds cheaper and easier!

     

    what are U needing to access so often? Ever think U really will need access?

    Jeff

        Buck Construction

     Artistry In Carpentry

         Pittsburgh Pa

    1. User avater
      xxPaulCPxx | Jan 29, 2006 11:28am | #3

      Good question!

      This wall has valves leading from the Hot/cold lines in the slab to the water heater, as well as valves going from the water heater to the upstairs addition.  I also have a gas valve there that I would like to be the main branch shutoff for two (for now) gas outlets (water heater and dryer... which also have there own shutoffs).  That's three doors so far.  With the work I did on the garage so far, I also opened up a really handy place to store long pieces of wood or trim over the kitchen, and I'd like to continue using that space after I rock over it.  I'll also be placing a new branch breaker panel in that wall, and having access to the area above would be pretty handy for pulling wires.

      I do use these valves nch with all the work I do on different sections of the house - all the while keeping the water flowing as best as possible.  Keeps the wedding band on the finger!

      As an additional thought... I had considered just making a firewalled recess for each of these areas.  Then I realized that I will likely need to pull one or more sections of this firewall down at some point in both the near and distant future for other projects i have planned.  These include new water runs for the house and the addition, maybe a gas line extension to the back patio for a grill or firepit.  For this reason I'm installing the firewall in such a way that it would be semi-permanent.  This means that I can't do recesses, at least not easily.

      Interesting idea with the cabinet though, got me thinking... what about a simple metal doored cabinet over the hole instead of set into the wall?  Keeps flames away from combustables.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

      Also a CRX fanatic!

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Jan 29, 2006 12:10pm | #5

        Like Mike said .... can the fixtures/fittings be turned so they'd actually fit inside a cab on one side of the wall or the other ... as opposed to being inside said wall?

        then ... just mud/tape/seal/caulk as per the norm. Fire rated caulk and away ya go as far as the penetration ... hide all the shut off valves inside a long cab on the garage side or maybe thru some kitchen cab's on the other side of the wall.

        an I picturing this right?

         

        here's a weird thot ... how far apart are all the valves?

        how about a standard fire rated door  ... parallel to the floor?

        make for one big (3ft x 7ft) ... cheap ... access "panel" ...

        jeff

         

        Jeff    Buck Construction

         Artistry In Carpentry

             Pittsburgh Pa

        1. User avater
          xxPaulCPxx | Jan 29, 2006 08:39pm | #7

          Jeff, I dare say that is freakin brilliant!  A sideways mounted firedoor mounted 4' off the floor.  I love it!

          I'll look at this from that angle today to see if it might work.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

          Also a CRX fanatic!

          1. rasconc | Jan 29, 2006 10:28pm | #8

            What about using the metal J channel for drywall to edge panels with about a 4" overlap on your hole and either screw them on or use the turn button latches you had in pic?  Just const adhesive the J ch.  to the drywall, glue the cutout piece to the back to add strength and to help center.

          2. User avater
            xxPaulCPxx | Jan 30, 2006 02:13am | #11

            That is exactly what I think I will end up doing.  Unfortunatly the big door idea is great - but wrong for this application.  To many big heavy things too close to the wall.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

            Also a CRX fanatic!

          3. MikeSmith | Jan 30, 2006 01:41am | #9

            paul .. do you want firedoors ?  or do you need firedoors because of some local code ?

            all we need now for garage separation is regular 1/2" sheetrock and a metal door.. the door doesn't even have to be rated  ( they used to require a 20 minute door...but no longer a requirement )

            the only other thing is the slab has to be dropped 4"  so fumes can't slink over the foundation and into the house Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          4. User avater
            xxPaulCPxx | Jan 30, 2006 02:10am | #10

            We do need a fire rated wall (2 layers of drywall) and door, and the door needs a self closer.  Jeff was mentioning using the doors as really big and heavy duty access panels.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

            Also a CRX fanatic!

  2. Mitremike | Jan 29, 2006 10:22am | #2

    Paul I am with Jeff on this one--Digitial pictures, drawings, heck rock the wall and draw the map in full scale.

    Around these parts you don't need a full mud job to keep the firewall rating --just a close tape and one coat.

    If you needed freq. access to a valve or something why not make a small access panel in the back of a cabinet--

    Just some thoughts---

    Mike

    " I reject your reality and substitute my own"
    Adam Savage---Mythbusters

    1. User avater
      xxPaulCPxx | Jan 29, 2006 11:32am | #4

      I suppose I could make close fitting flanged rock squares with metal edges, the wall hole edges being metal too.  Not going to be turning the valves every day, so occasionally pulling a sheetrock plug might not be too bad.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

      Also a CRX fanatic!

      1. Mitremike | Jan 30, 2006 09:34am | #14

        I just know with overlay scabs--interior access panels and the other ideas we can save ya that 500---500 would buy ya some nice parts for that CRX--of course the wall may look like the ceiling at the OK corral after a good old fashion gun fight but what the heck.Your saving some serious bucks--like maybe enough to join the fest this summer--HINT-HINTJust doing my part for the TIPI movement--Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
        Adam Savage---Mythbusters

    2. User avater
      JeffBuck | Jan 29, 2006 12:11pm | #6

      chicken sedan ...

       

      gotta love that kid.

      Jeff    Buck Construction

       Artistry In Carpentry

           Pittsburgh Pa

  3. plumbbill | Jan 30, 2006 04:51am | #12

    How many hours of rating do you need?

    Cause one layer of 5/8" = 1 hour

    On our jobs 18gauge wasn't fire rated enough for us to use unless we putty padded them http://www.whitecapdirect.com

  4. Mooney | Jan 30, 2006 06:09am | #13

    Lets see if I can help.

    The code says you need one hour of fire protection "from the garage". In other words you need to protect your house from the garage not the other way. You could double hang two layers of ceiling board [1 hour]to the garage side and be done leaving the inside for access any way you want to do it .

    Or 1  5/8s fire code [.45 min] and 1 regular 1/2 inch rock 15 minutes.

    Tim

     

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