Replies

1. 
   dryhter | Dec 06, 2004 06:26am | #1

   In 25yrs. I've not seen real (professionally made) mahogony or cherry countertops.Iwould have to guess that both woods are to soft to take the abuse.Mahogony may even have some toxicity issues(I know the sawdust tastes terrible when you cut it .).Keep in mind the only finish to use is something you could eat .

   If you would want to make tops, you need lots of clamps, 1 clamp every 6in. minimum x deapth of top, aflat work area ,and more clamps. The top will have a tendances to bow like a barrel

   Material will need to be 7/4 or more to finish at1&1/2in.or alittle less.Material does not have to be thickness planed ,but it does need to be joined and ripped into 1in.+/-pieces.

   After glue up ,scrape off excess dried glue and thickness plane.

   The wood of choice is HARD MAPLE maybe Beech and NO it should'nt be stained.

2. 
   cardinalfan | Dec 06, 2004 08:40am | #2

   I made wouden countertops in a butcher block style. I ripped maple and mahogany to 1/34 inches, glued together with biscuit joiner. I made in 12 inch planck, planed down and glued together to make 24 inch countertops. There are three strips of maple and then one mahogany. It looks good and is easy to services. I oil about twice a year. I have also taken blemishes out by sand ing and re-oiling. Aorund the sink is tricky. I stepped down with flat maple apron and several coats of a bar top finish. My wife is happy and I am very proud of them. It took a lot of ripping and a lot of biscuits to do the job. Good luck

1. 
   Ron03 | Dec 13, 2004 10:56pm | #3

   Having made several maple butcher block table tops, I can just about guanantee that you will spend more making it than buying it premade and then cut to size.  Time is money and unless you have a very cheap deal on the wood and an abundance of time you should buy it prefinished for food contact.

3. 
   Badger1 | Dec 24, 2004 08:07pm | #4

   A buddy of mine bought a section of bowling alley from a salvage yard and cut it to fit his counter area. It turned out great and he simply replaced the finish. The alley wood is glued stock and it certainly thick enough to resist movement. If you live in an area where this idea is feasible, look into it. It is truly cost effective.
   Happy Holidays,
   Ron

4. 
   jobranch | Dec 27, 2004 04:08am | #5

   My only concern with a wood countertop is damage from heat, water, and wear and tear.  I saw on This Old House a countertop made of mahogony and wondered how long it would look good.  What kind of finish are you planning on using?

   Jeff

1. 
   price | Dec 29, 2004 03:04am | #6

   Thanks for your help, but I went to the showroom to check out granite and my wife fell in love with a soapstone counter. Less work for me:)

    

   larry

2. 
   artman | Jan 10, 2005 03:56pm | #7

   I always chuckle a little when i read these posts about fear of wood counter tops showing wear. Thats the whole point! As it wears it gets more and more beautiful. The wood starts to darken and shows little dents and grooves where cans drop etc.It gives the kitchen a very warm and wonderful lived in look. Can anyone say that about laminates or even solid surface. Neither of these materials ages beautifully at all. They just start to look worn and scratched.
   Also what is up with this concern about "food grade finishes". You not installing a giant cutting board people. Its a counter top!
   I have 7/4 verticle grain douglas fir counter tops finished with Last and Last tong oil poly.( Which I recommend..its a fantastic finish. easy to apply and it 'last and last'."The purpose of life is rature. Here and now"

5. 
   ponytl | Jan 10, 2005 07:27pm | #8

   I see ur now sold on soapstone...  but as for Wood I made quite a few several years ago...  I'd buy new wood truck flooring  it came 24" or 30" wide and up to 40ft long... if it held up for forklift traffic  i guessed it'd work for counter top... at the time they were make'n alot of table tops out of it for bars...

   pony