Here is a short video showing the use of a crosscutting jig i made for the Makita Beam saw. The jig has cleats that lock onto the 6×6 and a table that provides “infeed/outfeed support and a fence to run along.
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pretty slick - I just got one of those saws, and have found it binds easily, because of the difficulty in keeping it 100% straight thoughout the cut. Seems like your jig would cure that problem.
View Image
What blade are you using? I've been using the blade that came with it, and find that it doesn't cut through as quickly as yours appears to.
Also - did someone else man the video camera, or did you set it up on a tripod? What video camera are you shooting with?
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Brian-That was great! Especially the high lonesome soundtrack- who is that?
I was listening to the Bluegrass Review radio show:http://www.bluegrassreview.com/Not sure of the artist and the playlist link is not working now.
The Bluegrass Review playlist link is working now. Here is the info:Label: Rounder
Artist: Charlie Sizemore
CD: In My View
Song: Made in the Shade if the Tree Don’t Fall
The jig rather good at keeping the blade tracking properly... does keep it from binding.The blade is a Freud I bought from Amazon:http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1632X-16-Inch-General-Purpose/dp/B0002AJQQM/ref=pd_cp_hi_2?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00027FT0W&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0Y1ADFTR3GKJ2ZJZ05A3The camera is just perched on a pile of lumber... Just a digital camera in video mode (Cannon).
The key to these saws is a good carbide blade and allow the tool to do the work. Also allways check the blade to be square with the base [front and back] as this can get out of alignment very easy with a saw this big and heavy.
Huck,I thought you might like to see that same jig used with a more normal sized saw. This is for a log cabin corner, so the notch is just 1/4 of the timber thickness (1-3/8" in this case).The jig makes the saw work almost like a slider (the video is about a minute and a half long--but you'll get the idea in the first 30 seconds):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSpjMRP9D38And a pic of how the timbers go together:
There is nothing "normal" about that saw. Makes me get a sore neck just watching you twist around to get a line of sight on the blade..
Where is your real saw (worm drive)? ;-) Nice posts BTW
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
The worm drive saw I want still has the blade on the right:http://www.tylertool.com/por314412tri.html
I have one. Great saw. You need to get one. You'll use it all the time.
Mike,I know I would love that saw. Just saw a post about someone getting a good deal on eBay. Thanks for the encouragement,Brian
The saw and I got a workout this weekend... finished the logcabin corner, timber stairs:
Wow, that's a lot of lumber in them thar stairs! Looks good!View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Thanks,It should be interesting backfilling under the stairs.
Here are the stairs with the 6x treads housed in a second inverted stringer.Most treads just need to be held up, these also have to hold the earth back, thus the inverted top stringer. I've cut lots of stringers, but this one going over the top, confused the heck out of me... had to draw it out three times.Given the variable dimensions of the 6x, the first cutting was not the best fit. I scribed several of the riser cuts for a better fit... may be a moot point since the 6x's are likely to shrink some and open gaps up (maybe pressure and moisture from the dirt will keep the joints tight).Cheers,Bass
Been following your postings on this project. Bet your happy you picked that saw up! Sure makes life easier when it comes to big timbers. What are you going to do with the void space under the stairs?
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
The Big Makita has been perfect for this job.I plan to back fill under the stairs with a sand/gravel/soil mix that will drain well. Each tread has a 3-1/2" space that will be filled with rock. As the fill settles I will add more rock.
How did you tie your deadmen in? Doesn't look like you used the half-lap joints there.
The deadmen are joined with half-lap joints 2-3/4" deep, integrated into a single course.The notches at the 6x treads are also lapped joints, but with the log cabin configuration, the notches are half as deep (1-3/8"), but they are notched at both the top and bottom and tie into two courses.The log cabin approach, with more, but shallower notches, allows those notches to be cut with a standard 7-1/4" circular saw. For the full and half depth cuts in the 6x, I used the Makita 16" beam saw.The dead men are notched like this:
You need a website where you can put all your videos
... and I need some videos for my website!View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
You have just watched both of my videos. :o)But you are right I do need to get a website going this winter.
Mine is a Godaddy template - pretty user-friendly for the non-geek. I'd be happy to share what I've learned. I've set up six websites so far, all are in various stages - my contractor website is the priority, obviously, but the websites that are 5 pages and under are free. Can't beat the price! And for a small fee you can eliminate the banner ads for Godaddy, if you want.
I figured out how to add videos to my website by putting a video of my cat on - the video itself was parked on flickr.com. I took it off, since whats the point of a cat video on a contractor website? But I'd love to have some informative videos like yours on there. I take the video camera with me every day, but never seem to get around to using it. But its only been a couple of weeks since I figured out how to use it.
One of my subs has a few videos on You Tube (link) - his wife shot them, and its a shame she's not in them, they'd be a lot more fun to watch (gorgeous gal). He's going to Texas soon, and when he gets back he wants me to set up a website for him.
My websites:
http://www.bakersfieldremodel.com/
http://www.greeneandgreenearchitecture.com/
http://www.centralparkantiquemall.com/
http://www.muralsbyneal.com/
http://www.professionalmobilewash.com/
http://www.superiorevictions.com/Home_Page.html
View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Huck,Thanks for the website info. I'm way behind on that kind of stuff. Time to get more well-rounded.I am not the best businessman, too focused on the work, I guess.Later,Brian
Godaddy has a busy website and it's a little hard to figure out how to use it. I do have a domain name registered with them (maybe "through" them is more accurate), but I don't have a website.
How much does Godaddy charge for your website? If I build one, it will probably be even simpler than yours. My ISP (Verizon) provides me with some space for a website, but it's very small and I don't like their templates.
What I would really like is a simple tool that I could use on my PC to build a site and then upload then whole thing when I'm ready. I've use Front Page (from Microsoft), but the software is bloated to the point of overkill and creates hundreds of little "support" files even for the simplest of pages. The learning curve and space requirements are just too great.
Godaddy has a busy website and it's a little hard to figure out how to use it.
True that. But their "Website Tonight" templates are pretty easy to set up and use. Which was important to me, because I'm not a computer geek, and I want to be able to make changes and updates easily and frequently. I probably modify my website two to three times a week, often more.
I have friends who paid big bucks to have a web designer do their website, and it sits unchanged for years, because they need a computer geek to update it for them, and who has the time and money to constantly be doing that?
I like to be able to snap jobsite photos during the day, and have them on my website by that night.
I still haven't figured out how to do everything I want with their system, but its reasonably priced, and reasonably easy to work with.
My HP Construction website is unlimited pages for $12/month, which is a real bargain compared with my other advertising costs. And if you keep to 5 pages or less, its free, or $5/month to get rid of their annoying banner ads at the top of the page.
Go to http://www.greeneandgreenearchitecture.com/ to see an example of a website I pay nothing for. Its only three pages long at this point, and it has their ads at the top. So its free.
For $12/month I can add pages all day long, if I want to. Try that with Yellow Pages, or your local magazine or newspaper ads. I currently have 26 pages on my website. Only 10 pages with tabs, because any more gets annoying in my opinion - but I like having a web page for each job under "projects", for example. Click one of the pictures, and it takes you to the page for that job.
I started small and simple, and have added more over time. I want my website to be interesting, and have more levels, for anyone who wants to spend a little more time with it.
I don't know how well I've succeeded, but I have gotten a few jobs from people who found my website on the internet, and I've had a few customers mention things about me they learned from my website - surprised the poop out of me, since I really didn't know if anyone read that stuff I put on there!
I'm currently bidding a nice commecial remodel job, and when I met with the facilities manager, he said "I notice you're from Ventura, I'm from that area too." I asked how he knew that about me - he read it on my website.
And I've offered before - I'll gladly share what I've learned about working with their system.
Really, to me a website is a way of leveraging your advertising dollars. Think about it. I put my web address in all my ads, and then people not only can read the ads, but they can go to my website and keep learning more about my company. Thats why I picked an easy to remember website address. If I want, all my ad has to say is "BakersfieldRemodel.com" That's enough.
I have several other domain names that forward to that address. For example, "CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com" will take you there also.
Since few contractors are using web advertising to any extent, a website puts you ahead of the competition. And I look at it this way also - If I'm up in the middle of the night with insomnia, or I'm home sick, I can sit at the computer and tinker with my website, and I'm still contributing in a productive way to my business, at my leisure. Hard to beat that.
View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Edited 11/20/2008 9:31 am by Huck
Thanks. Their website is still a bit confusing, but at least I know where to look.
Their website is still a bit confusing
Yeah, I hear you. Just put your cursor on the "Site Builders" green tab at the top of the page, then click Website Tonight on the pop-up menu (under do-it-yourself site builder plans).
Website Tonight is the one I use. I have my domain name registered with GoDaddy, and the website is free up to 5 pages.View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product†– Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Since the thread got sidetracked a bit to the subject of websites, I'd like to put in a recommendation for Google Sites. You can register your domain through Google for $10/yr (the actual hosting is then with someone like GoDaddy). It is not however necessary to register the domain through Google in order to use Google Apps, including Sites. Its quite powerful, but simple and easy to use. You can edit / update it from any computer with a web connection. You can instantly link slideshows (maintained in Google Picassa Web) and videos.
I think Dino has a base that will fit that saw and ride on the guide rail to help it track better. Awsome capacity of cut on that monster!
I might consider an EZ-base for that saw if I had much ripping to do. For crosscutting, I think the shorter jig of mine might be better than trying to use a longer guide rail.
My approach seems simpler. I grab a speed square and use it to line things up. when cutting 12 inch wide timbers I saw 1/2 way through and then move the speed square to the other side.
Another tip is to wax the bottom of the saw plate. Seems to slide through dried oak timbers easier that way. The other trick I mastered is have the timber tipped away from you slightly makes the saw go down hill.. every little bit helps when you are making hundreds of cuts a day.
Edited 11/17/2008 5:28 pm ET by frenchy
I use a speed square as a cutting guide all the time with smaller saws that I can control with one hand. I would prefer to hold the big Makita with both hands. I like having the jig wider than the timber...like having infeed/outfeed support.
Maybe familarity with mine gave me the confidense to do that.. I mean I can't begin to count the number of beams I cut with mine..I suspect the count would be well into the thousands.. When I start I two hand the saw. I hold the speed square with my knee but as soon as the cut starts straight I push with one hand and hold the speed square with the other, flipping it backwards on 12 inch wide or wider timbers.
I use the rip guide to rip beams up to 24 feet long and they come out so straight it's really a thing of beauty..
Don't ya love the kick that big dogg has on start up?
I'm a newbie with that saw still.Remarkable tool... it certainly kicks.
Edited 11/17/2008 11:03 pm ET by basswood
I also bought one recently on E Bay so thanks for the tutorial on how to use it.
I haven't even plugged it in yet.
One point I would make about those big saws has to do with the guards. Pay attention to keeping them clean and functioning easily, they ( or at least on the saw I own) have a greater tendency to hang up or jam then any other saw I have ever used.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Let me second that.. the guards on them are a real Pain in the ####.
On the guard hanging up, the crosscutting jig helps with that. I lift the guard and slide the saw forward, the guard comes to rest on the jig table before the saw blade even reaches the lumber. This allows both hands to be on the saw handles for the entire cut.
Walter,I suppose that those who are more experienced with beam saws might not have much use for my jig based approach, but for a new user it has been very helpful.I plan on making another jig that is like a big speed square that can be used as a guide to cut 45* cuts and regular 90* cuts. Maybe even left and right hand versions of the speed square.If you try out some of my methods, let me know how it works for you.Glad to help,Brian
And some people disdain honing jigs, and I'm sure there are purists who don't use a fence on their table saw, and really, you're cheating if you even think of using the tablesaw table...I'm sure that somewhere out there, there is a pure tool that consists only of omnidirectional cutting energy. The true craftsman cuts perfectly-fitting dovetails with this tool, and of course disdains layout tools such as squares, etc, seeing them only as the crutches that they really are.In the mean time, I'll use every jig that I can think of that will keep quality high while not bogging down production.Go for it, Dude, you rock!Aitchkay
Personally, I like honing jigs... have messed up a few chisels free-handing them.The more precise and consistent the work needs to be (and the more repetitions), the more sense jigs make. In the case of the Makita Beam Saw, the jigs I made improve the safety too, IMO.Diggin' jiggin'Cheers,Bass
Right On!AitcKay