I am building a maple flared stairway now in my shop. It starts at 4 ft. at the top…flaring t0 6 ft. at the bottom…with an 8 ft. wide double bullnose starting tread.
This stairway has no risers ….so I will have to fill in between the steps so its less than 4 inches. The treads are 1.75 inches thick to self support. It will have a T-landing at the top with two steps going both left and right.
Stan
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Replies
When you say "self supporting" ... is there a stringer on each side, or just one side?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I love the look of flared stairs.
This one looks too big to transport in one piece.
Will you be re-assembling on site?
"Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
Stan,
As a long time lurker and admirer of your art, I will look forward to this thread. I am in awe of your shop and talents.
On a side note, I think you would be able to find someone on this board with the talent and tools to case out the door in your assembly room! :-)
Low Blow (G)
This stairway will go out in one piece...minus the 8 ft starting step.
It is self supporting meaning both left and right stringers are in the open.
I will post some more pictures later. I have to make some curved curb caps out of maple...not difficult...but just time consuming. But...thats what we want..more time!
Stan
Interesting project thanks for posting.
Now about that chopper...
Stan
It is self supporting meaning both left and right stringers are in the open.
Do you mean no walls on either side?
Without risers how will you keep it stable?
Thanks, just wondering.
Rich
Rich: I failed to mention the bottom four treads have risers, plus the fact that it is flared adds a lot of stability.
Here are some pictures of these stringers being worked on. I was capping the bottom of the stringers with maple to hide the laminates. You can see my finger pointing to some depth control screws that keep the maple filler from being driven down too deep.
The pictures with the poster board are of a template being made to transfer to some maple stock. This has a curving and twisting shape and making a pattern is the simplest way to do this.
I then handplaned...sanded...and rounded over the edge...and the maple looks like its a solid 3 inches thick.
It is one heavy stringer.
Stan
Nice stairs........
But when will the bird in the back ground be ready for pre flight????????
jet: I should have my turbine engine next April..and it should be running by June.
In pic 181, I assume the top of the stairs is at the right. What is that flare for?"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
That stringer is upside down..that flare is the foot of the stairway.
Thanx for sharing Stan.
Did you have to glue up any of the 8/4 for the treads or are you able to order 10 & wider?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Chuck: I have a gentleman that I buy all my treads, risers, and skirt material from. I fillet out a lot of this work to him....it frees me up lots of time...and helps him a lot as well.
He can basically get anything I want. I have a good relationship with him....I send him half his money upfront...and upon delivery he knows the other 1/2 payment will be there waiting for him. It benefits us both.
Stan
Stan
That stringer is upside down
By golly, I think you might be right."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I have all the treads in this flared stairway. Things dont go according to Hoyle at times. I was making that 8 ft wide double bullnose starting step when I wasnt paying attention to the router talking to me. I should have back routered it , and a big chunk of maple split off. AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!
I found the pieces and reglued it and all was well afterwards. Another lesson about complacency.
The bottom four treads will be enclosed with risers...and the rest of the treads will have a filler glued to the bottom of the nosing so as to meet the 4 inch code rule.
The last pictures show an injection hole I drilled for each tread. The nozzle of the constuction glue tube is forced into the hole, and the glue is pumped into the tread mortises filling the voids. This bonds it all and makes it squeak free. One stringer had mortises 1.25 inches deep so the tread could be put in...bottomed out then the other end inserted into the other stringer. The tread then had blocks clamped to it so I could hammer the tread sidewise seating it into the mortise. There are bump blocks in the mortise for it to bottom out on.
The maple caps for these stringers are already fit and ready to install once I move the forms away.
Stan
Is 289 the chunk that blew out?"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
FastEddie: Yea...you can see about a 3/8 inch thick piece just under the clamp.
Stan
Stan
Thanks for letting us into your shop.
It's a real treat.
Even if the work is not as spectacular as yours it's still a treat to look at someone else's work.
Rich
Is there a corresponding vent hole...kinda like when forging metal or blow-mold plastic...to allow the cavity to completely fill?
Or, does it have enough ventilation through other voids?
Or, I guess, does it matter?
a.
Asmith: My mortises arent airtight. However the glue had to be injected slowl as it was just like a hydraulic jack. I could see the tread trying to come out of its mortise if I pumped the glue in too fast.
Here are some pictures of one of the top sections that adjoin this flared stair. One sectio goes right and the other left.
I have the midlanding newels mortised to accept these top two sections. It would be next to impossible to fit these sections to just a flush fit with the newels..then try repeating this in the field installation.
Stan
Stan Foster
I'm really impressed with your work. I have been for a very long time.. I'm really sorry to ask this question but I just have to know.
What sort of budget should a person who plans a complex curved stair set aside? Is there any rough ballpark sort of number available? $5000 a floor $20,000 a floor, $200,000 a floor?
Nice work Stan. I have a tough time getting maple that is all clear and 'blond' like that.BTW I thought you might be interested in this router bit. It allows you to do a bullnose without needing a jig or fence. You round over one half the conventional way then swap the bearings for the one pictured and do the other side with the special bearing riding on the curve profile.http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/57190.html
Thats the same bit we use for bullnose on Solid surface tops. Amana makes good Solid surface tools.
reinvent= Thanks much for that router bit. I have NEVER seen that and it actually made me say,,,,hhmmm.....out loud. I will get one. That is pretty high tech and I like it!
I am a little more old schooled than most here realize. I dont have a shaper, never run a lathe in my life...dont have a bandsaw ....
My main tools are my shop made jigs...DeWalt tools...and a Grizzly planer and table saw.
I still say I get more out of this forum than I put back.
Stan
Your welcome.I will have to post some pics of the shop I work out of some time. I am more of the new school, almost every high end tool possible.
This stairway has a double bullnose starting step which is in one piece. There is no carpet runner and I had the make the riser for this step out of a maple board over 11 ft. long so as to have no seams.
I used to kerf these where they go around the bullnose...but I had always wanted a better way to do one. This is a much better way...but its more work.
I start out by routing out the 3/4 inch maple down to 1/16 inch just where it wraps around the bullnose. Plywood forms are glued and screwed to make a solid backing for the veneer part of the riser on both ends. This veneer is milled a little wider so that folding wedges can be driven home tightening this part around the drum that has construction glue on it.
This method makes a very solid....and very nice smooth curve.
I forgot to mention that I make a master plywood backing piece...then smooth it all out...and clone a bunch of them so they will stack together nice.
Stan
What are folding wedges?
Do you bend it dry?
Have you considered using a strip of pre-cut veneer for the entire riser front?
Did you have a problem getting the adhesive squeezeout off the face of the maple?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Edited 10/10/2008 8:07 am ET by FastEddie
Eddie: Its bent dry...folding wedges are just two wedges back to back and they tighten the veneer section around the drum form. I have used veneers...but nothing looks better than a genuine board bent around on both ends.
The glue just sands off.
Stan
I installed this stairway today. It took 8 guys to lift that pig through the door edgewise.
The top sections were set roughly in place..then the bottom main section with the top newels were set in place. The top sections were then set into their mortises and all lagged up where the one inch plug holes are seen.
Lots of fun....the stairways fitting was its own reward.
Stan
What supports the middle landing?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Eddie: Cantilevered I-beams projecting out of the fireplace. It is stout.
Stan
Looks great Stan. The design really compliments the stonework. The scale of stairs to the size of the stone column works well together.
Is this the stairs where you showed how you routed out the backside and bent the lowest riser?"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I gotta ask, have you ever gotten stairs to a job, and have to cut a bigger opening to get them in?
nater: No....I always measure the entry sizes...before I build it.
Stan
I installed the curb caps today and have been fitting the 8 ft wide starting step. I will ship it detached as the doors arent wide or tall enough to get this behumeth inside.
Stan
When you do stairs like this, how much of it is your design? Does the client tell you they want a stair between the floors and make it curved, or do they give you a decent drawing. I suppose the construction details are all yours to figure out.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Edited 9/11/2008 9:42 pm ET by FastEddie
Eddie: I basically look at their blueprint and design a stairs that I can physically make and one that will pass code. I try to overkill on the strength of it...
Stan
So they show the basic shape, and they specify the type of wood? Do you ever propose a different style?"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Eddie: I show them examples of everything from 2-step stoops to freestanding ellipticals, then try to match what they want to the space they have.
Stan
Stan
Thanks for the pics.
This is very interesting, even though it is above my ablities. Fun to watch and learn though.
Rich
Stan,
In 196, there's a rectangular block [behind the two planes] with holes drilled in it.
What is that for?
a.
Stan there is no doubt that you are the "STAIRMASTER".
i love checking out the photos of your projects. you are an inspiration to all in the finish trade and i could only hope to oneday build a set of stairs of your caliber.
keep up the good work!!!
By the way when are you going to star having in house seminars;)
Ray
Great work as always Stan. Have you considered seminars to educate and sell the Stan Foster Stair Case Franchises?
On a curious note You maintain focus, don't get caught up in any of the off topic Tavernish issues. I can only assume you don't visit the Tavern, or do visit but stay a safe distance away from the bar. How do you maintain your Swedishly cool neutrality?
So as not to hi-jack this thread I won't be offended if you don't respond. I will just be more in awe of your talent and calm Marcel Marso form of philosophic expression.
jagwah: Thanks for the kind compliment. I am more of a lurker on the Tavern. I do have my opinions on most subjects....but it is extremely rare to change anothers opinion....trying to do so just gets into wasted arguments...and I just dont have the time.
If I came on here during business hours and chatted away...I would be out of business......
I suppose some think I am not that social...but I am one of the gabbiest mouths you will meet when I get on topics I am passionate about.
Stan
Mike: I have been busted!! No decent tim carpenter would leave doorways unjambed and not trim!
I cant argue with you on that......one of these days......
Stan
Stan
Thank you for sharing your work.
It is always a pleasure to tune in to your threads.
Rich
Thanks for all the kind comments. I will post some more pictures of this stairway as it is being assembled.
I am still considering the stair seminar....I am debating about just leaving my shoulder operation go...and still doing a seminar.
Stan
Knowing just how busy you are between stairs and flying...
What a great fest thing to do a seminar on stairs.
I'm thinking a powerpoint thing with pictures. With your explanations, my boys either Ian (who was the long haired hippie 15 year old at Doud's) or Robert could do the powerpoint thing for you.
Think about it... Got a year to do so.
Stan,
Looking forward to following another one of your excellent stair threads!
Out of curiosity, are these stairs going to a home in Mentone, AL? I have some friends with a cabin in Mentone.