Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 09, 1999 09:39pm | #1

   *
   Ander: I found Taunton's book, Setting Tile by Michael Byrne to be very readable and instructive.

   One sometimes backbutters stone tiles to adjust for thickness differences (versus the European technique of grinding the top of the tiles flush after they've been set).

   For 12 inch tiles, probably use a 3/8" deep notch trowel like you would for large ceramic tiles. If your marble is white and at all translucent, use a white thinset - a dark color could show through.

   Check for thickness and out-of-plane variations before you start. Group any thicker tiles all together to minimize adjustment during setting. I would lever by touch. Good Luck. -David

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 01:32am | #2

   *I've never set marble, but in researching for a different tile job a while back I recall reading about having to seal the back of the marble prior to installation. Unfortunately, I don't remember if the requirement for sealing was dependent on the type of marble, the type of adhesive, or if it's always required. The reason had to do with the adhesive staining the marble and the stain coming through to the surface. Sorry about the vague response, hopefully someone else can come along and back me up or tell me I'm mistaken.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 03:44am | #3

   *Ander,

   Installing marble is no different then installing any other tile product. The basic rules still apply, sound base and good thinset coverage. The only problem that comes up is if you use Chinese "green" marble. The moisture in the thinset has a tendency to cause the tile to wrap. To prevent this you can do one of two things; use an epoxy mortar or coat the back of each tile with a thin layer of epoxy, let it dry and then install them with regular thinset.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 05:03am | #4

   *Ander,If you can do a conventional mud bed and fresh lay the stone, you will have an easier time. Definitely trowel the thinset on the back of the stone to assure proper bond. Stone usually has a thin layer of stone dust which can act as a bond breaker. If the product varies in thickness more than a milimeter or two, you may want to make up a buttering board.Medium bed setting mortars are available with a special semi-circle notch.A Makita palm sander strategically placed on the stone for a few seconds will help evacuate the air pockets and also level the stone to prevent lippage. Use a small Planters Peanut can with the plastic lid placed on the bottom to slide across the joint to check for lippage. I would not expect a mechanic to get more than 40 square feet a day placed if not using a conventional mortar method. ZERO tolerance for lippage!!If you are setting White Carrarra or any lite coloured stone, spit your chewing tobacco in the peanut can rather than on the thinset. The stuff will bleed thru in a matter of weeks and then you will be back here asking how to make a stain poultice.Last but not least. Put some radiant heat below that stone. It makes it softer to walk on.Good luck.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 05:22am | #6

   *David,How right you are on the European method. In a past life, I did a lot of hotel lobbies on the West Coast. Many of them were not set up with a depression for mud. Had to go thinset-thinbed and deal with all of the peaks and valleys in the surface. ZERO lippage was the rule. We finally got smart after dealing with this sh*t for the first 50K sf and invested in a couple of grind, hone and polish rigs. Grouted with Akemi before grinding. ZERO lippage and no breaks in the reflection!! We never got less than $20.00 per square foot when doing thinbed work. We made more money charging $12-15.00 a foot for mud set.As an aside: The sloppiest stone work-Italy. We could never get away with what they call craftsmanship. The finest stonework-Germany.Jeff

2. 
   Ander | Jun 11, 1999 05:22am | #5

   *
   I am in search of info on marble floor installation techniques. I have a lot of experience with ceramic tile, and so I am looking for specific advice on techniques for laying and leveling marble. Like,how thick should the mastic bed be and do I backbutter for double thickness? Why? Do I level tiles just by sight and feel or should a straight edge be used?

   Any advice would be helpful. Are there any good books or Web sites with installation info. for the do-it- yourselfer. I am putting down 12in. sq. tiles with 1/16in. grout lines, over concrete slab using premixed mastic. Thanks!