*
I am drilling holes for tapcons. I am going through bits like crazy. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
*
I am drilling holes for tapcons. I am going through bits like crazy. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Source control, ventilation, and filtration are the keys to healthy indoor air quality. Dehumidification is important too.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 81%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
*
My guess is that you are using a standard drill.
Use a hammer drill and bit rated for percussion use.
*Yesterday I used for the first time one of the (New?) Dewalt SDS bits with a kind of serrated carbide tooth. That bit is a hell of a lot better than my plain bits for speed. And yes, you do need a hammer drill if you are in need of more than one hole. The time you spend growing old with regular drill & masonry bit is frustrating and they tend to wander off into the sunset when you hit aggragate.You're probably drilling holes in the floor of your new shop to bolt your new almost free 3 phase woodworking equipment down? How'd you come out on that deal? Joe H
*Yea I would start with a hammer drill and carbide tip masionary bits . i think that will solve your problem
*I drilled about 600 tapcons last year and had the same problem - this was with a hammer drill guys. I tried three different brands available locally and they all had the same problem. 5 - 25 holes. I theorized that the smaller bits just didn't disperse the heat well enough but don't really know.
*Try a Bosch Bulldog SDS rotohammer......like butterA tad bit larger than a half inch drill, hammerdrills suck!
*Just because you have a carbide tipped bit doesn't mean it will last forever. Masonry IS hard stuff and some of the aggregate is even harder. It will wear down the cutting edge and then you sharpen it. And then you wear it down again and sharpen it again. You also don't buy the 3 for a buck bits either. There is a difference.
*You may want to check the ISO standard for the bit-size. For example, the ISO standard for a 1/4" bit is only 200". Bosche claims their "Blue Granite" bits will beat that by 2 to 3 times; still, we're only talking maybe 100 holes for a 4" deep Tapcon hole (5/32).
*Second the vote for Bosch SDS. Been running boxes of tapcons, drills like butter. Bits are not a problem. I think this thing could drill concrete with a pencil.
*Third on recomending the Bulldog. First time i used is was for a floor of patio doors in a hotel. Ran that thing for damned near a week straight with no problems. Smaller bits do seem to be less durable. Skip
*Hey all...Thanks for the response--sorry for the delay, my computer has been acting up.Here's what I have found so far...the Bosch "Blue Granite" bits have made a huge difference. I have (and had) been using a hammer drill. (can't afford to buy a roto hammer since this is likely a one time application AND it doesn't make sense to rent since I have limited time to work and have to do this over the course of weeks...) So far I've drilled about 50 holes using a single bit...however, when I hit aggragate, I must stop and re-drill.Remaining problems: I am using a phillips head screw. Although I drill at least 1/4 inch deaper than the screw (per instructions), it is difficult to completely seat the screw into the 2X4 that I am attaching...there is a tendency for the screw to break...ANY SUGGESTIONS???Joe, long story short on the machines...The guy who owned the machines worked out of a warehouse that has been doomed to demolishment. He and the other tenents have been evicted...while the others have packed up and left, this guy with the machines has not moved his stuff out...he has moved into San Francisco AND LEFT HIS STUFF! Word is that he wanted to frustrate the land owner by leaving his "heavy equiptment" for the landlord to deal with...I have been using all my contacts to try and get in touch with him so I can get the machines...To date no such luck! If I can't get in touch with him, I'm going to try the landlord...I'll keep you posted.Newman.
*Drill DEEPER. Clean out the hole. As you screw the tapcon in it is also grinding its way through and making more grit which falls to the bottom of the hole and builds up. When the end of the screw hits this stuff it compacts, the forward motion of the screw stops and the shank snaps.
*Right on the mark, and blow out thoses holes if you can, masonary bits do not clear down to the bottom like twists drills do. If you don't have the means to blow it out, then I have seen guys use a worn out twist drill (just in a regular drill) to clear the hole. Try a little liquid soap on the screw to lube it.
*As a sidelite: have any of you tried an SDS bit in a regular hammerdrill in an emergency? I have a Bosch 1/2 inch hammerdrill, and had to drill a bunch of 5/8 holes and could get no regular shanked carbides. Bought a Bosch SDS bit and stuck it in - ground right through concrete and aggregate like hot butter. Did about 36 holes like that. Probably have to replace the chuck when house is finished, but that drill has worked like a champ!Don
*Newman Screw length is also very critical here. When you drive a tapcon it is cutting it own threads in the concrete. In newer crete you may be able to go 1-1/2", But in old hard crete you may find that your screws will break if you try to go more than 1". Also the thinner tapcons (3/16) break alot sooner than the Fatter ones if your drilling into old crete you really should be using a 1/4"x2-3/4" with the hex drive head for fastening 2x's to a slab.Hope this is some help. Mr. T (Tapcon)p.s. wear your ear muffs!!
*First of all, it's MASONRY, not masonry!?!Second, Relton Crop (Arcadia, California) makes an excellent bit. Get a "Groove- Tip" multipurposebit for hard metal granite, tile or marble. It's a couple of bucks more, but you'll save aggravation (and time). It will Zip thou concrete and grouted CM.Make sure to have a hammer drill.And stay from anything HOME DEPOT sells. It's all carp.Happy anchoring.
*Your right Mike with regard to "masonary". Gee what is it with the non-word "Masonary"? I think that has to be the most common spelling (and/or pronunciation) error in the Building & Remodeling Industry. I actually have saved around ten business cards from contractors over the last few years that actually do "Masonary" work. I wonder just how much that hurts them when a potential client spots that kind of error on their business card or in their speech? When the search function gets repaired on this site it might be interesting to see what is more commonly used i masonry or "masonary". Anyone have any ideas regarding why that error might be so prevalent?
*Hey all...Thanks again for the follow-up advice...I have been doing much better utilizing many of the great suggestions. Thanks!Mike, just one question regarding spelling...Did you mean "It's all carp?" or all "crap?" :-)....[I'm neither a mason nor a spelling champ myself, but I truly appreciate your input].Newman.
*Jerrald, I saw a business card that had an even worse spelling error on it. The guy supposedly did concrete work, and had his address on the lower corner. Actual location "Taylors", spelled on the card "Teylors". That made an impression.Jon
*Any of you guys ever go to the "libary" to get a book? Some people just can't or don't care to learn how to spell. We just finished setting "trusts" and soon will be setting floor "joisteses". Ever use a SAW-SAW? I'll stop now before I write an entire dictionary of misspelled and pronounced construction terms.Hopefully I'll not get caught saying or spelling wrongly.Jimas Blowing the holes out really helps me to get the fasteners to go all the way in.
*
I am drilling holes for tapcons. I am going through bits like crazy. Any suggestions?
Thanks.