Replies

1. 
   Geoffrey_Marshall | Jul 01, 2000 12:04am | #10

   *
   The best way of priming this stuff is with a really cheap oil
   primer: KILLZ. I has to be oil-based or the MDF or could swell
   up. Also, I thin it at least 30-50% (that's not a typo) with mineral
   spirits because I want it to go on really thin, smooth and dry in no
   time. I use one of those 1" diameter 'pro' foam rollers with a 3"
   roller. Makes the job super fast and easy.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 2000 03:21am | #11

   *
   If you guys are spraying your own finishes, most of the manufacturers make a sealer that is designed for that (milled areas, 'end grain', whatever, specifically for MDF). I mostly use Becker -Acroma; the sealer is clear, then you prime on top of that, topcoat on top of that. I don't spray enough paint to bother stocking it, but if I did (and if it's a problem for you or your painters), it's on the shelf.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 05, 2000 02:28pm | #12

   *Thanks ya' all... Sam

3. 
   Peter_B | Jul 31, 2000 06:49pm | #13

   *
   I find MDF a great, low cost paint grade material. If only it wasn't so dusty!
   For profiling, some manufacturers offer a "Profiling" Grade which dusty get as fuzzy for finishing. Check with your supplier. (I closed my cabinet shop, so can't offer a supplier name)
   As far as fillers, I've had success with paintable latex caulk for small holes, but am still searching for better fillers. For finishing, I have had excellent results by priming with Muralo 563 Painters primer. The fast dry, and high hiding properties are great for killing the MDF brown, and left no noticable color shade difference on pieces which combined Poplar and MDF, finished with light colors including white.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 31, 2000 06:49pm | #14

   *
   I know that there are going to be some comments of derision regarding MDF but I've got a thick hide... So, for those of you who use this regularly, what are you using for filling nail holes? After nailing this stuff down, I'll usually gouge it out with a chisel to get rid of the "hump" and then fill it. Does anyone have any preferences regarding fillers/putty?

   Sam

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 29, 2000 04:03am | #1

   *MDF certainly has it's place and purpose. I just wish it wasn't so heavy or dusty when cutting. Anyway I do use MDF quite often and I would say for 90% of my purposes Bondo ( polyester auto body filler ) is the prefered nail hole filler and fairing compound. The Minwax High Performance Wood Filler which is esentially a better woodworking formulation of "Bondo" is just as good if not better for holes but can get pricy if your using a lot of it and doesn't do as well in application for surface fairing situations.A while back I started a discussion regarding what people found as suitable primers for MDF in the Fine Woodworking/Knots Discussions. So in continuation of the train of thought I'm wondering have you found anything you really prefer in the way of primers?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 29, 2000 04:04am | #2

   *I carve the hump off flush with a really sharp chisel; i find that works well and is really fast. On raw stuff, i use regular latex wood filler, occasionaly auto body filler. If it's primed, wood filler or sometimes even spackle, depending on the size of the hole.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 29, 2000 06:14am | #3

   *Latex wood filler over here.I'm curious...I've never used the lightweight MDF...not available locally. I only occasionally have "humps" when nailing the heavy MDF, w 15 or 16 ga shot from a nailer. Does the lightweight Trupan volcano more than the old, heavier MDF?Sam, don't sweat the "derision" factor. MDF has it's place in construction, and when properly applied it can be a superior product.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 04:34am | #4

   *What brands of guns are you guys using? I read an article 5 or 6 years ago about different guns performing differently in MDF and Prime trim. (It's the nails of course that make the difference.) It was the volcano effect they were talking about. there were a couple of brands that were far superior to others. It seems that it's about time the big mfg's start to make a nail for the stuff.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 05:23am | #5

   *Hi Mongo,I've found that the lighter weight TruPan does'nt lump up nearly as much as regular MDF when shot with a finish nailer. I've had times when you couldn't detect a bump at all. It certainly is easier to work with being lighter and all, I just wish it didn't produce so much dust when milling it. It also seems like it dulls carbide cutters faster than wood does.Made some raised panel doors for paint grade cabinets using poplar for the door frames and Tru Pan for the raised panels, and was quite pleased with the final product. The only problem I have with doing that is listening to the painters whine about how difficult it is for them to get a good finish in the milled area of the raised panel.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 07:21am | #6

   *MDM, thanks...I must be getting lucky with no volacano on the heavy MDF. I totally agree regarding MDF dust and dulling...not fun.After milling MDF raised panels, I use a paste pore filler on the milled portion. Sand it the next day and it's as smooth as glass, ready for prime and paint. An extra step, but less laborious to me, and a better finish, then not using the pore filler.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 07:23am | #7

   *Steve, Senco or PC guns. Proprietary and generic nails.Counting my blessings...

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 30, 2000 02:40pm | #8

   *Thanks Mongo, I'm gonna suggest that to the next painter I hear whining. On the last set of paint grade cabs they complained enough to the builder that he asked if I could make the panels out of poplar instead of Tru Pan. Perhaps he needs to compare procedures of different paint contractors.

6. 
   Geoffrey_Marshall | Jul 01, 2000 12:01am | #9

   *Used a few sheets of Trupan Ultralight this month. No volcanos with a 16gq gun when nailing thru the face. When edge nailing I get a small split, but no bit deal.