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Anyone have any tips or advice on installing membrane under tile floor in custom shower?
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Richard, here's a few tips:
1. Install 2x6 blocking on edge around the perimeter to support the membrane (the plumber will thank you when he/she does the water test)
1a. As long as you're installing the membrane blocking, put in blocking for future handicap grab bars.
2. If it's not too late, use screws rather than nails in the subfloor under the shower pan. At the very least, pound down the nails and scrape over the area to be sure nothing's standing proud.
3. Be certain the plumber tapes over the metal drain cover so the tile person won't get trash into the drain.
4. Have all cement board nailers in place so traffic on the membrane will be minimized.
I'll bet others have more tips...
Good luck, Steve
*Many pros don't do it, but lay down a thin bed of mud that slopes to your drain before you put the membrane down. This allows the water that seeps through the mud set to drain, instead of sitting stagnant in the floor. Most drains put the membrane above the level of the sub-floor, this is what you are avoiding by putting down that first layer of mud under the membrane. Tuck the membrane tightly into the vertical corners and fold it over to one side before you nail it in place. You don't want your membrane to be damaged by the backer board instalation.
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OK, here's what I don't yet get. Haven't gotten around to asking at the tile store yet. Since it came up here...
From bottom to top: Subfloor, mud sloping to drain, membrane, thinset, tile. Yes? If so, is the thinset bonding to the membrane so that the tile gets a good set? Or is gravity what's holding the tile in place? I understand the value of the membrane, but I don't have a clear picture of the bond be/t the sloping portland cement base, the membrane, and the thinset under the tile. What keeps it all flat and stable? Capiche?
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Go to jlconline and do a search in the magazine section for mortar shower floors. You'll find all your answers there. Its in an article by Michael Byrne.
Subfloor, sloped mortar floor, membrane, mortar bed, thinset, tile. You will need reinforcing mesh in the top mortar bed. Your membrane needs to extend 4-6 inches above the level of your curb(dam) and over the curb. When you are placing the mesh for the top bed extend it over the curb so you can float the vertical face and the top of the curb with mortar. NO screws or nails here unless you want a leak.
Dave
*After plumber does leak test, I like to cut a piece of foam board to cover the membrane and(hopefully) keep trash and traffic from puncturing it before the tile is laid. Like idea of sloping mud bed under membrane and 2x6 blocking. Have to keep an eye on drywallers as they are apt to run rock down to floor and nail thru membrane.
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Good article! Thanks Dave. Answered all my questions. Now I gotta go read it 10 more times before I tackle the shower!
*Thamks alot for the direction to jlcom. Those articles laid out the entire procedure.
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Richard:
See http://www.jlconline.com/forums/tile/ and post your question there. This is a site hosted by Michael Byrne, and if you pose a specific question that is interesting, he might even answer it himself!
You question is fairly open ended, so if you ask it there, don't expect a lot of answers.
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thanks a bunch for that site. Their articles were exactly what I needed.
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Anyone have any tips or advice on installing membrane under tile floor in custom shower?
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What I usually do is , have the person installing the backer board cut to 12" above floor and leave the bottom pieces cut to size and
attached with only 2 screws per piece . that way my plumber installs the liner right before the tile work