I’m sure this has been discussed before, but Breaktime’s search function didn’t return anything.
I’ve got to cut around 80 sheets of corregated 29 ga. metal siding sheets to length. I saw a Kawasaki metal cutting circular saw at the lumberyard and grabbed it.
My plan is to stack some sheets together and cut them.
Has anybody done anything like this?
How many sheets will it cut at a time ?
What else can this saw be used for and how thick of metal will it cut?
Replies
Don't do it, it will throw little chips and burn the coating off the panels. (If painted) Then it will rust whereever they hit. Use snips.
Thanks for bringing up something to watch out for. This saw has an enclosed housing which is supposed to catch the chips. I'll have to check it out.
If you have to do it, cut them on the ground, about 10 pieces at a time. Turn them upside down, and hide the cut under the ridge. Leave the factory side as your eave.
also, drill them all at once and the screws will line up perfectly.
I agree with you on the PITA cuttings left behind from a saw cut.
The only time I'll yse a saw now is for an exposed valley where I need a sharp line... can't do it with shears or a nibbler.
I used to predrill all my sheets but now I have mixed feelings for that.
My supplier carries these new screws that start thru the panel so easy http://www.sealtite.com/wb-zxl.htm
So a lot of other factors come to play before I predrill.
Whats the slope?? Can I go back with a string line?? Is it highly visable if I eyeball it??
But if your running a straight gable and everything is uniform, predrilling is the way to go.
Buy extra blades.
Yeah, it always seems like I'm always one blade short of finishing. Do these carbide metal blades get chewed up pretty quick?
Well, since you bought the saw looks like you'll at least be attempting the deal.
No expert here but played the cut man this past winter on a slew of sheets and it can be done without a whole lotta hassle but can have it's moments.
Protecting the blade by slow even paced cuts seems the best plan of attack
as getting hostile or pushing the saw too hard can create probs that end up chipping a tooth
which seems to immediately influence the cutting potential.
That last inch in a cut can be problematic if not attentive as it wants to bind if not supported correctly.
Have two blades in reserve when you start just to cover yerself.
Edited 6/30/2009 9:41 pm ET by rez
Thanks for the advice Rez.
he's gonna tke the saw back and get the shear...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
rent a shear...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Ya, 80s a bunch and those blades aren't cheap.
That's maybe what I end up doing or buying some of those Malco shears that fit on a drill. Probably spending more time dreading cutting each sheet than actually doing it.
this kinda shear....
http://www.acra.com.au/NewProduct.aspx?Id=63
View Image
Corrugated Iron Hand Shears
Australian made, and manufactured, these simple machines allow the operator to cut back, or trim sheets for industries such as Domestic Roofing, Bull Nosing, Water Tanks, Pergolas, Sheds and Cubbies. Compact and light enough to take onto site to trim sheets quickly and cleanly giving a much better edge than a pair of tin snips. Also available in profiles to cut Bluescope Lysaght Trimdek, Smartascreen and Multiclad, Stramit “K” Panel, Woodroffe Lo-Rib & Gramline Fence Profile
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
AAAAHA! Thats the ticket! However, I live where I doubt there are any available to rent.
how close are ya to Denver or the Springs???
buy instead...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Edited 7/1/2009 8:34 am by IMERC
so now ya explore the website listed and find a dealer...
buy the shear and then sell when yur done...
or keep it...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Hmmm....I'm about 3 hrs away. I'll check out the website and think about it.
check in Limon....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Big R may still carry them....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Hey thanks, that wouldn't be a bad drive at all.
Big R is in Falcon on 24...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I'll give em a call
Do you work in E. Colo. much? I helped a buddy on a job in Last Chance. We'd eat at a good cafe in downtown Limon. If your through sometime and our schedule lines up, I'll buy.
No... that'd be a jaunt for me...
I'm pretty far out into the mountains...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I've never used the metal-cutting circ saw blades (look a bit like ordinary carbide wood blades), but I've seen them used.
It's not exactly like cutting butter. The blades buck quite a bit, and I'd be very leery of trying to cut through more than one sheet at a time, or of cutting something that wasn't fairly well secured.
I have seen the blades (Panasonic, not Hitachi) used to cut fairly thick stuff such as Unistrut -- don't know what gauge that would be.
Good news on being able to cut unistrut etc. Maybe I can use the saw for other things.
I've used a #### steel cutting blade for cutting steel lap siding with a 7 1/4" circular saw. It cuts without burning. Like butter, really. That's one piece at a time. I'd be leery about stacking too many up--I think heat could get to be a problem.
I once sided a shed of mine by cutting maybe 10 pieces at once. With a regular carbide skil saw blade. Whoo boy did it melt that blade eventually. I didn't really care about burning though since I could put the cuts under the ridge cap.
Thanks Marson. Sounds like heat is going to be the problem.
What size blades does it use?
Harbor freight has 7 1/4" metal cutting blades that Ponytl really likes.
They are 7 1/4". I'll check out HF. Thanks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94642
Good idear. We were shelling out a whole lot more than that for blades at the time.
I never used em, but Ponytl says they are the cats meow.
I"m curious about the blades from harbor freight, I tend to use either the Frued or Morse blades. the quality of the blade makes a difference but if the harbor freight blades are up to snuff I'm interested. I have some 12 gauge floor joist I"m cutting down for a bridge so I will give them a try."this dog may be old but he ain't cold. And he still knows how to bury a bone."
Lattimore
http://www.rehmodeling.com
Amy stories on these blades? Work well? What do you cut with them?
i think i should get a commission on the blade i brag about from harbor freight... i just finished 250 ft of metal fence and didn't even kill one blade @$16.00 they are still a deal use to be about $9
i have a killer makita 7.25 miter/chop saw i keep one mounted on... i regually cut 1.25" solid round stock with zero problems
p:)
Glad you posted the link. I was looking and missing them.What does ponytl cut with his?
He cuts beams and heavy steel with his.
Cool
The blades I've seen are 5 1/2 or so.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Ive done a bit of metal framing with a 7 1/4 circ blade by tenryu, cuts 2 3/8 thick wall steel poles almost like butter . I dont think stacking 3 or 4 sheets of corrugated together would be a problem. Buy a piece of the wiggle mould to help support the cut.
Edited 6/30/2009 9:34 pm ET by bluejae
I'll have to sheepishly admit my ignorance.What's a wall pole and wiggle mould?
Sorry, I worded that wrong. Its just a heavy gague steel fence pole approx 1/8 inch thick,like the kind you see supporting a chain link fence. Wiggle mould is a piece of wood milled with curves to match that of the corrugated roofing, used to help keep the roofings shape when fastened down. If a home center or lumberyard carries corrugated roofing they should have wiggle mould nearby. You can get a few pieces to help support the sheets at the cutline.
Edited 7/1/2009 1:47 am ET by bluejae
I had to cut a bunch of crappy galv delta rib roofing a while back and bought a freud metal cutting blade for my wormdrive.
It's a 'triple chip' design. If you look at the teeth they cut left, right and straight on.
I stacked and cut them all like I wanted to and it worked great. Not too hot and chips out the back of the saw just like normal.
Then you can spray prime the ends if you want--all stacked there neatly.
Good to know. Thanks
Craig,
Rent the shear.
Save your ears.
Regards,
Thomas
Several years ago, I cut the corregated roofing for a barn using a 7.25" circ saw with the blade in backwards. It was noisy, but it worked fine.
I've done that before. Even with earplugs the sound is terrible. I cut a scrap pc. with this saw and blade and the speed of the saw seem to cut pretty good. I can see the metal needs to be well supported though.