I am going to be installing metal roof panels on a horse run-in ( shed roof on side of a barn). Will be using what is called 5v metal panels (http://www.metalroofingsource.com/panels-5Vcrimp.htm).
Ive never worked with any type of metal roofing before. My roof run is 21′. It would be nice to cover that with one single panel ( no lap seams), but Im thinking that a 21′ panel would be a little difficult to handle. What is the longest panel length that one can handle?
On another note, any other tips or things I should look out for?
Thanks,
m2akita
Replies
Don't buy short panels, buy them long enough to cover the length of the roof and get another pair of hands to help move and place them. 21 feet is too long to do yourself, you'll be folding them in half. The key to moving them is to hang them, i.e. grab them by one edge and let them hang, one guy near each end. Do not try to carry them flat. All of this will be obvious within the few first minutes you open the crate.
I've handled fifty foot panels with three guys, but 18-21' feet is easy alone once you get the hang of it. You sure don't want wind though whe alone.
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"18-21' feet is easy alone once you get the hang of it."That's because you use 24 and at a pinch 26 ga as I remember. I did a 28 ga last fall and it was like trying to carry a 20 ft piece of Hardiplank.
just dont do it on a windy day
OK, but I can't recall seeing any 28ga either. The cheaper stuff now is all 29ga.For that, two guys might be best, esp inexperienced.
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Yes that's it 29ga. Telegraphs every imperfection in the substrate and oilcans easily. I never find much for a second guy to do on a metal roof except stare up at me while I screw the panel down. It helps if he has something interesting to say while he waits.
The only time I've handled 5V crimp it was 29 gauge, 32" wide, and about 20 feet long. Sort of like really big tin foil. Two of us handled those sheets. I guess I could have done it by strictly dragging them, never lifting them.
I regularly worked with a partner. We'd get the sheet inplace, each of us clamping the vice grip on the lap at top and bottom. Then we would each put one screw in near the lap and then double check the alignments.Then he would start working up from the bottom and I would start at halfway up and work to the ridge. We'd each finish at same time and go get the next one.One steeper roofs, we used a chicken l;adder set just to the side of the panel, so I would be re-positioning it while he got the next sheet coming.
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21 are easy. lean against house, grab the end with vice grips and take off running, one guy can do it fine if it aint windy. mine was 26 feet long.
Hint, metal roof, tennis shoes, and chaulk line dont mix.
Take off running huh? Just gotta remember to stop :)
Thanks guys, guess Ill order the full length panels then.
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I was in a hurry as I typed my last. So I didn't leave any hints how to...
I grab near top end of the metal sheet about 3-4 feet down from top when it is laying on the ground, holding that edge with my right hand, and start walking up the ladder and don't stop until I get to the ridge.
I use vice grips on the lap at top and bottom to hold it in place to the previous sheet so I can get some screws in
I have the materials stacked perfectly and predrill for screws so that all the fasteners line up perfectly on the roof.
Keep checking alignment. The steeper the roof, the more it wants to turn down as you go so the edge ends up not parallel to the finishing gable end, and the overhang at bottom is gettin g longer.
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i did some 18's by myself,i found it easier when getting the metal to the edge of the roof to "roll" it up width wise. with the corragation in it #### will roll in half making it easier to handle and a lot less likely to kink length wise.
my biggest problem with metal is it's slicker than snot,be carefull.
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As always mentioned, rolling the sheet together temporarily makes carrying a snap. I've carried 26'x3' sheets up a ladder many times (I once did an 8000sf fire station roof). A rope will do in a pinch, but by far the best way to hold sheets rolled is to use a belt with nylon snap, similar to those on many toolbelts; if the sheets are longer, use two. An added advantage on shorter sheets is that you can use the belt to lug the sheet if you so choose.
Thanks for the tip on rolling the sheets, think that will make it much easier.
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So I have the choice of either 29 guage or 26 guage. Should I stay away from the 29 guage? Im glad this project is for my wife and not a client. Good way to get my hands wet on metal roofing.
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What's the price difference? 26ga is appreciably thicker and less prone to both damage and oilcanning.
26 all the way....
Should I stay away from the 29 guage?
Check with your homeowner's insurance agent. I'd heard that some companies will not cover a metal panel roof unless it is at least a 26 guage. The thinner guage lpanels look about as good, but they are much weaker...
Bill
I would have to agree with the wizened crowd and go with the 26 if at all posible. You will not regret the upgrade.
29 far more prone to showing ANY imperfetion and oil-canning from thermal movement.
26 more wind resistant and handles snow loads better. For instance, what I used to use had two separate harts for strapping layout spans according to required live load and which gauge.
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last one i did was october last year
works better with 2 guys
when in place , equal at bottom edge put one screw in bottom one in middle and one at top , this limits sheet creep
did a church once using 30' sheets , every sheet had to be cut due to dormers
here i use 28 gauge for strapped roofs , 30 for sheeted roofs + tar paper