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I am thinking about the standing seam metal roofing for a house I am building. I know it comes in 36″ widths and any length. Is it best to put it down over decking or lathing? How do you put it down? Do you like it? Cost? I know it is more expensive but how much?
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I've heard that the materials cost 3x as much. I'd imagine the labor might be a little less though. Supposed to be good for at least 50 years.
Also heard that it is noisier. Heavy rain, sleet, birds, etc are much more noticeable.
That's all I know on the subject.
Good luck.
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David,
We use it all the time down here. Everybody loves it. I see more copper roofs than paint grip metal roofs. It all goes down over decking. With most metal roofs they put a layer of building paper down first to keep the metal away from the nails that hold down the roofing felt. The nail heads can rust through a copper roof in no time. There is a scientific term for this that I can't remember at the moment. Someone here will know what that is.
The price of copper right now is at an all time low in Texas. I would think it is the same everywhere.
There should be a roofing contractor somewhere in your area (wherever you are) that can advise you.
It's a good roof system.
If you live somewhere that it hails a lot, expect some dents. Homeowners insurance will cover the repairs. Check with your insurance company.
Ed. Williams
*Here in central Vermont we use standing seam metal roofs all the time.As a matter of fact I am putting one on a house I am building for myself right now.It doesn,t cost 3x as much Mark F is misinformed,but you can expect an increase of about 33% over standard afchitechtural shingles. If your roof is well insulated you will not notice the noise. You cannot install it on slats because the metal will sag in the bays and leak in the seams, you will have to put it on a flat surface. If you want a roof that you will never-ever in your lifetime have to mess with or shovel snow from again it's worth the extra $.
*Chris - I am not sure how a contractor could do it for only 33% more. I just paid $1800 for 8 square of metal (Metal Sales Mini Batten) MATERIALS ONLY! That $225 per square. Damn nice shingles can be bought for $45 per square.I am told the going rate for asphalt shingles installed around here is $100 per square (I don't know - I've never paid a roofer). So for $130 per square the roofer is eating the additional $95 material cost and working for free.In our area this is still a specialty and subject to higher markups because fo it.-Rob
*Steel roofing is the material of choice here in the Idaho panhandle. At the high end would be 24ga. standing seam roofing and the low end would be 29ga. with a corrugated pattern. This type installs with hex screws with washers that remain exposed. Costs for enameled steel in this area run about 55.00 per square(1.05 per running foot of 2'0 wide material) comes in a variety of colors and installs very quickly.Accessories like trim, ridge cap, and other flashings are extra.With materials on site and pre drilled for screws an installer can easily roof a 20' x 30' garage with a straight gable roof in 4-hours, of course flashings for roof penetrations, valleys etc. will take longer. Snow stops can be attached to roof to stop snow from sliding off if necessary
*Electrolysis, ed, electrolysis......
*Have used metal roofing on a variety of buildings and have not found the installed cost to be significantly different than a good quality shingle.As for sheathing: If you want a quiet roof you do need to use solid sheathing, last one I did I used 5/8 plywood. But most of the enameled(painted) roofing works just as well on skip sheathing. The big difference I've noticed is the noise when impacted by hail and other unfriendly elements.Each manufacturer has their own preferences for fasteners I think. So, just get a copy of the installation instructions and follow them.I'm a fan of metal roofs of whatever type. It is just that in some architectures or neighborhoods they are verbotten.
*Call BHP, located up and down the west coast, (Sacramento, CA 1-800-726-2727) and get their product brochures for "Skyline" and "Klip-Rib". I used the two products a few times and love it. No exposed fasteners! The Klip-Rib will go over skip sheathing no problem ( up to 5' centers and you can even walk on it after installation). Fast installation.David
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On a similar topic, has anyone had experience with curved standing seam metal roofs? I'm not sure if they come to the site curved or onsite bending can be done. Out here in Western Colorado they seem to have started catching on.
*>As pointed out in "Designing Roofs for Snow County"(Current issue), snow slides from a metal roof can cause significant damage. I am unfortunate enough to have bought a house with a metal roof. The popular fix is to attach snow guards or retainers to the roof. I am wondering if having the roof hot mopped with a small gravel topping might not be another solution. Comments, anyone.
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I am thinking about the standing seam metal roofing for a house I am building. I know it comes in 36" widths and any length. Is it best to put it down over decking or lathing? How do you put it down? Do you like it? Cost? I know it is more expensive but how much?
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Gerry: I've seen a passel of metal roofs in Colorado and have never seen one that has been hot-mopped. Off hand I'd think there would be adhesion problems with the metal. Also, I'm not sure there is a reason to hot-mop a pitched roof but maybe someone who is more expert than I can comment.
As far as the FHB article is concerned I'm not sure it was comprehensive enough to be more than a reminder to build to the site and climate. In fact I own a 6/12 metal roof that has 2' or more snow on it all winter. Where it is sited neither the wind or sunlight takes the snow off. So, one day in the Spring it all goes with a LARGE noise. So, I just don't put anything under the eaves for about one month a year. One builds to the site and accepts what happens.