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I want to install a metal roof on my shed and was wondering the installation process of a metal roof verse shingles? any suggestions are appreciated.
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For a shed roof, i think a metal roof would go up faster and probably outlast a shingle roof. Probably a little cheaper too. The manufacturer usually has instructions as to the overlap of each sheet, fastening, pitch, etc.. They all differ a little. I use hex screws with washers, dont overtighten and squeeze the washer too much. Most say to place screws in the flat as opposed to on the ridges,even though thats where the water flows, you wont crush the ridges that way.Ive used a lot over decks, piers and boathouses, and it stands up to high winds very well.
*When I priced metal versus architectural (thicker) asphalt composite shingles for my house, metal was a $1,000 more. What pushed me to shingles were 1) the snow doesn't come off in a slab (which is a noticeable THUMP! if you are inside and potentially fatal if you are under it (about one kid dies every other year up here in Alaska due to snow sliding off of roofs). And 2) we're right on the salt water and petro-chemicals seem more durable in a marine environment than metal, however good the coatings are. And 3) with our long-angle sun, shingles ought to last a long time - the reverse of the problem in Hawaii where the temperatures and the UV kill them really fast. -David
*I work on the alabama gulf coast and see metal roofs everyday that have lasted at least 30 years. You might get 20 out of asphalt here but it will be curled up and falling apart. The question was about a shed roof anyway so without sheathing and shingles im sure the price couldnt be much more. We dont have snow here but ive been out west a few times and it seemed that most of the houses i saw in colorado had metal roofs, so snow must not be too much of a problem. Im not an expert on snow, or roofs, but ive done my share of metal and shingle roofs, and for a shed i think metal makes more sense. Im sure there are many easier ways to get killed around the house than being crushed by a snowslide from the roof of your shed.
*PammyAssuming that your talking about a i shed as in small utility/storage building, metal roofing may not be cost effective, but will go up very quickly. If you can, buy the cheaper, thin guage (30g?), unpainted galvanized type. Thicker guage is necessary for residential, and colouring is decoration.The true saving with metal roofing is in new construction; the absence of expensive sheathing (labour & material), the speed of installation (more labour saving) and the lifespan of the product (50 yrs?. . . forever?)and these savings are increased with the size of the project. The metal itself costs about 2-3 times as much as the same Sq.Ft. of shinglesIf your roof isn't already sheathed, you strap the rafters with 1x3 - 1x6 utility grade softwood, 16"-24" o.c. and secure the panels with screws through the ribs (never crushed one yet- countless thousands of screws later). Buy your sheets precut to length, and don't forget to factor in the overlap of all sheets "in the field", and the "extra" at each end where there is no overlap to start, or end. There is a full range of flashings, ridge covers, available.-pm
*Metal roof should go up faster and last longer than shingles. Last shed,10x20 with lofts, I did used BHP(24ga I think) painted to blend with house. Used skip sheathing similiar to what was described above. ABOVE ALL ELSE obtain, read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for the roof! If you do the metal roof will last almost forever. I've never had a metal roof fail in any way. Can't say the same for shingles.If you live in snow country it is a good idea not to have anything too fragile under the eaves. But David lives in an area that has many many inches of snow a winter and is the only place I've heard of where people are inclined to walk under falling snow. Probably has something to do with End of the Roader's:-) So, I wouldn't worry too much about danger from falling snow.
*I'm in Indiana, and a generous percentage of the metal roofs I see have a bit of metal sticking up near the eave to break up the mass of snow before it falls. Seems like a reasonable idea. Even if the snow isn't fatal, it would be inconvenient at best.Rich Beckman
*How's it going Patrick?We are paying around $12/sq/mtre here for metal roofing ( AUD ). Whats it running at where you are, and how do shingles compare? ( we don't use shingles here at all )
*What are anyone's experiences with the anodized aluminum products in various colors? There's one color that's pretty close to oxidized copper.Last research I did into these systems, I seem to recall that low slopes want either a gasket of some sort in the standing seam or the standing seam crimped with a special machine after installation. Latest possibility is a shed dormer, but I'm concerned about the slope.On the snow issue: my sister lives in snow country and the common practice seems to be ashpalt shingles except for 2' or so above the eave edge which is metal, with no snow-stoppers. The idea is to encourage the snow to slide off (to help prevent ice-dams I guess). They tend to have a little gable or low slope roof over the doorways to keep the snow off people. Some of the erect little 'sandwich-board' structures over the shrubbery for the winter to protect it from the snow sliding off the roof!
*Am I missing something here? We are talking about a shed ,right?Couldn't possibly take more than about an hour to shingle it.Even if it needs a few sheets of plywood or OSB for decking could it really be a budget buster. Even if we do the whole thing left handed and with no air it still sounds like an easy way to spend a morning.Or is this shed more like a barn and about as big as my entire city lot?
*Hi MarkHow are things in Oz.If I did the math conversion correctly we're paying about $10.23Cdn per sq.mtre. Actually about $95.00Cdn per 100 sq.ft (known in roofing parlance here as i a square)for prepainted 28 guage high rib galvalume.There are other styles and other guages available for less and/or more. A i squareof standard 25 year shingles is about $37.50Cdn.You should be answering more of the steel roof questions. . .. it's pretty much used exclusively down there isn't it???You must be gettin ready for winter. . . go ahead, break my heart, how uncomfortable does winter get down there???-pm
*Hello Patrick,Yes pretty well used all the time, though tile is making more and more inroad. Tile has pros and cons ( more frame work, less tie down, less work for the chippy( no battening the roof ) higher cost)Have been staying out of a lot of the roofing posts because once again of terminology ( standing seam ??? ). We are also now using all metal battens on our roofs, nice and light and dead straight, though if they ever expect us to use steel stud they can stick it where the sun doesn't shine.Winter.OOOHH its just a terrible time here come winter.
*MarkJust out of curiosity, how do you treat penetrations through the steel like round chimney, or venting. Stack vents have a specifically designed flashing kit for ribbed metal roofing but everything else must be improvised. I always build i square chimney chases to be flashed with stock flashings. Last fall I did a repair of a poorly installed metal roof that was leaking at valleys, and penetrations. The round metal chimney had a flashing I've never seen before or since. The typical 'cone' flashing had an additional rubber type gasket which fit snugly to the chimney. It had a Melbourne patent and the manufacturers name 'David (something)'. Sound familiar?? It still seemed inappropriate for metal roofing as the roof still has to be sliced to insert and then patched and resealed with tar or whatever, but the bozo's who installed this roof clearly didn't know what they were doing anyway.-pm
*Patrick,Most of the vents, we use a flashing that has a rubber cone built into it that you cut off to the required diametre. We don't cut into the roof, mostly just plant it on top and lot's of silicone. ( Blind man on a galloping horse would be pleased to see it )
*Besides the fact that you have different $'s and we don't have the slightest idea what a mtre is, it runs about the same.
*I'm planning on putting a metal roof on a vacation cabin I'm building. Do you only use 1x4 strapping on the roof? I guess I like the structural integrity you get with solid sheathing, it just doesnt seem that there would be enough strength, resistance to racking, etc. But screws wont hold good enough in just sheathing, will they? What about sheathing, tarpaper and then 1/4 strapping? Also, it seems that exposed screws will eventually leak, should I get the kind that covers the screw heads? Thanks for any advice....
*Dear Quick (not)How 'bout solid sheathing, t/paper, asphalt shingles, strapping (skip sheathing) then steel, then spray foam, textured to taste, with embedded 2x sleepers, then durock and tile. . . rafters to be beefed up as required to take extra load. Homer Depot now sell a nifty all purpose screw cover, come in designer colours. Enjoyi Sarcastically-pm
*Dear Patrick,I thought this was supposed to be a "forum for exchanging ideas and advice". My questions just dont seem to be all that stupid as to warrant your idiotic answer. I admit I'd had a few too many "cold ones" before I wrote it and didnt explain it right. Why dont you keep your sarcasm to yourself. People like you take the fun out of this discussion.I know that houses have been built for centuries using skip sheathing, but with some of todays homes, especially the one I have planned - with large open spaces under the roof - I thought that skip sheathing may not provide enough structural strength. By “covering the screw heads”, I was referring to a type of metal roofing thats on my neighbor's house which does cover the screw headsrespectfully (not)
*I've been researching metal roofs for a mountain home we're building in Colorado. Not having used any of them yet, I can't offer any opinions, but here are some sources:http://www.taunton.com/breaktimearch/messages/734.htm -- an archived Breaktime post by Rob Susz about the basics of metal roofs. A good introduction.You should also search the Breaktime archives (and FHB's home page) for other discussions and articles. The current (July 1999, No. 124) issue of Fine Homebuilding magazine has an article "Designing Roofs for Snow Country" by Henrik Bull. This discusses the pros & cons of metal roofs in heavy snow areas.Several metal roof manufacturers have Web sites with product FAQs, descriptions, specifications, and installation docs:http://www.mtlsales.com -- Metal Sales Manufacturing makes & distributes residential & commercial metal roofing. Although they sell only to the trade, you can call up their nearest branch office and talk to a sales rep about your particular application. I'm looking at their "Image II" (concealed fastener) and "Pro-Panel II" (exposed fastener) systems. http://www.olympus.net/biz/soundhome/champion -- Champion Metal of Washington sells "Snap-Loc" concealed fastener steel roofing.http://www.amrs.w1.com -- Advanced Metal Roof Systems has various types of metal roofs, includng metal shingles. Also check out their "Roof Estimator", an online calculator that lets you compare roofing costs per year.http://www.atas.com -- ATAS International offers various styles.Hope this helps,Pete
*Dear Mr. Quick. . . Ahh don't take yourself so seriously. . .. part of my job description here is to provide a little levity. . . go have another couple of cold ones, seems like you need it.-pm
We have had metal roofs (had a new one put on 2 years ago) for 100 + years. We were concerned that the snow load would tear the gutters off. Not a problem there are fixtures that bolt to the Roof's crease that hold very very strong alu pipes - snow guards prevent the snow from sliding off --- the snow guards come from Germany and are very efficient
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Has anybody had a problem with metal roofing and mold? 5 years ago I installed metal roofing on a garage and was horrified to see extensive mold damage to the underside of the sheathing the first winter. Yes, I installed according to manufacturer's specs. With extreme ventilation the condition has stabilized, but there is no garage door and probably never will be.
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Wendy
i Mould on the underside of the sheathing???
Was this solid sheathing as in ply or OSB? These materials are practically waterproof given the glue used in manufacture. If you have a moisture problem it's from below ( as in the floor) not from above.
-pm
*Patrick M,I have very limited knowledge about metal roofing,but I can't help wondering....If the bottom of the decking is moldy what does the top of the decking look like? Would It be possible for cold air to condense on the underside of the metal roofing and then drip on the sheating ,keeping the decking damp for long periods of time promoting mold colonization?Good Luck,Stephen
*Wendy, seems like an internal moisture problem. Similar to constructing over a dirt crawl space, the moisture condensed on the sheathing, and the mold flourished. A garage door, opened on sunny days, may be of assistance. Mold and UV light don't get on either... add a few blacklights to the enclosure.
*SteveThe ribs and crimps in metal roofing provide a lot of potential venting area per square foot, surely enough to obviate what you suggest, very little of the metal is actually tight to the sheathing. Metal roofing does "sweat" but on any decent pitch most of this will probably run down. . . but even if you're correct, I've taken apart ply walls that were mouldy and mildewed on the interior side due to breaches in or missing air/vapour barriers that looked like new on the other (exterior)side. I think by the time a moisture problem worked it's way through the sheathing it would be obviously rotten, not mouldy.-pm
*I'm glad to see that post getting so much milage.I recently installed 8 squares of Metal Sales Mini-Batten on my house. Metal Sales will send you to a local rep for retail sales. The tech people at their factory are very helpful, though they weren't familiar with the "no venting" argument.My price for 8 squares, and all the trim for half-hip, half-gable, including tax was $1800.-Rob
*Patrick, I guess i better become more "thick skinned" around here. No one likes to be "played for a fool" though. I enjoy reading your responses to the posts, you have an incredible knowledge of all phases of construction.I need a vacation..jim
*Pete,thanks so much for all this information. You put a lot of time into it, much appreciated.I checked out all the websites, turns out Champion Metal is located 5 miles from my home. I'm already in touch with them.Good luck with your mountain home, Colorado is paradise...jim
*Quick. . . Just havin some fun with you sport, no intention of "playing you. . . "Easy on the compliments, you'll make the others jealous, I get called fat head enough as it is!!Vacation is a state of. . . -pm
*Patrick,(or shall I call you "fathead" in deference to your recent exchamge with the thin-skinned "quicksilver"?),I am just looking for alternative causes for this problem.I have found similar situations with shingled garage roofs.Underside of decking is so covered with mildew it looks like it has been painted with black,grey,green paint,often with disgusting whitish or orangeish sprouts.The cause with shingled roofs even in well vented situations seems to be deteriorated or improperly installed roofing.sometimes the shingles were installed with no overhang past the plywood,no dripedge,and/or no starter course.Apparently once this stuff starts growing it spreads like wild fire.I also have found many times that overhanging tree branches have damaged the roofing material causing wide spread slow leaks.I know very little about metal roofing but I can only assume metal roofing has comparable trouble spots and the opportunity for installation blunders that could lead to this"floral display".Good Luck,Stephen
*12 years ago, I put a 5 Vee channel metal roof over 1/2 CDX plywood sheathing. The house had vaulted ceilings w/ a clerestory. 2 x 12 rafters w/ R/30 fiberglass batts. 3 years later, the sheetrock was falling off the ceiling in great, moist chunks.Seems, the condensation on the under side of the tin rotted out the ply(it gets pretty humid here in NC), then soaked the fiberglass and sheetrock.I've only used 1 x 4 strapping on 12 - 16" centers since then, and not had a problem. Geez, FredL wins again, damn it!Venting out the blowhole, BB
*BucksnortI've never wanted to install metal roofing onto anything but strapping, so would never encounter your particular problem, but how is it that Fred L. wins here? Did you vent that roof, and assume that's the source of your problem?? If the condensation from the underside of the tin rotted out the ply, it had nothing to do with venting the F/G area!! It was a condition of the tin "sweating" because of humidity and temperature swings. Seems kinda extreme but I don't live in N.C. although all the metal roofs I've installed have been on lakeside homes where there is more humidity "locally". Strapping (skip sheathing) guaranteesi some cross venting. Maybe your problem was caused in reverse order: badly installed, or no vapour retarder, and unvented F/g jammed into rafter cavities. I've seen that more than once with results like you describe.-pm
*...it may be "paradise", but have you ever seen a truck load of what passes for "logs" there? Why here in THE GREAT NORTHWEST we got timber so big... - yb :->
*Y.B.Kinda reminds me of a joke my old man used to tell about a Canadian showing a Texan around in Canada. Everything the Canadian showed him the Texan would reply "We got one bigger than that in Texas". The Canadian finally got fed up (it takes a while)and took him to Niagara Falls. "There", said the exasperated Canuck, "have you got one bigger than that in Texas?" The Texan tipped back his hat and said "Nope. . . but we sure do got the plumber that could fix it!"-pm
*Just a little joke, Patrick, The roof rotted out because the tin was on plywood and not strapping. There was definitly not enough air movement to deal with the amount of condensation, even with all the channels. I raise your past obviation.the answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind, BB
*B.B.. . . you're sure about that 'rotting from the top down stuff' eh??-pm
*top o' the morning Patrick, or is it evening? Can you clarify "strapping". Is this what we call battens or purlins?
*Patrick'Embarassingly sure.And, it's why I wear boxers, BB
*Then there is the Alaskan in the bar who got tired of listening to the Texan brag about the biggest this and the biggest that. He walked over and told the Texan that if he didn't shut up, Alaska would split in two and Texas would be the third largest state.Rich Beckman
*Hi Mark It's probably a regional thing, but I/we call any 1x applied as a 'nailer', i strapping,2x's could be strapping or purlins depending, purlins when used for roofing. Battens could be 1x or 2x (rarely) applied externally as a "finish" as opposed to a "nailer". Or maybe not. . . Now it's your turn. . . define i Australian Rules Footballand explain how it differs from rugger, rugby, and roller derby. :}-pm
*I think of "purlins" as members placed perpendicular to the rafters or trusses, but rotated up on edge, like between trusses in most pole barns. The only time I've ever heard the term "battens" is as the narrower piece of siding - either "board and batten" or "board on batten". What you folks are calling "strapping", we would call "skip sheating". I have never heard the term "strapping". Of course, with the natural beauty here, we tend to think of it as a separate country anyway. - yb
*Y.B.i Purlinsare more accurately i strong backsplaced as you describe, but i under long rafters to help with sag. . . usually 2x10/12. A building inspecter once made me install 2x2's across the top of the rafters on a 'flat' roof to provide cavities for "cross ventilation". . . he referred to them as "cross purlins".-pm
*Guido,we call these underpurlins.The use of purlins is more as Bob has described. Our battens are either 3x11/2 or 2x11/2 ( hardwood) but lately we are using a metal top hat section instead.
*Guido,I'm no expert on any of them but as I recall Aussie Rules or Aerial Ping Pong as it's called by those not appreciating the finer points of the game does seem to require a little more finesse with handling and kicking as opposed to the brute force required by the other games that use the word "football" in such a loose manner.
*Interesting, 'round here purlins go between framing members or are notched into them either on edge or flatwise. Verticle siding, roof overhangs...Strongbacks are usually made up of two pieces, fastened side to edge, in an L-shape, and go across a bunch of framing (either on top of or under) like joists or rafters. StiffenersStrapping is a single piece across, and skip sheathing is like yb says. Drywall or roofingWhy do we talk this way? BB
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Hey everyone,
As a metal roofing contractor I want to give you a warning about the product.
Most small manufactures sell secondary steel. This is steel they buy on the market that is defective and real cheap.
The warranties they give are not worth the paper their written on. You need to read the warranties carefully and ask if the metal is "secondary". Also, what do they do if there is a defect. Look around their yard, are there lots of stacks of defective panels.
Be leary of lifetime warranties. There is only one manufacturer of "galvalume" which is Bethlehem Steel and they only give a 20 yr. 6 month warranty. The company giving you the "lifetime" warranty may not be around when you have a problem.
Any just plain galvanized painted steel will not last.
It's best to buy from one of the major manufactures such as American Buildings Co., Butler, MBCI, and the like.
JohnKirk
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I want to install a metal roof on my shed and was wondering the installation process of a metal roof verse shingles? any suggestions are appreciated.
I don't see many install tips, so here's one: take the time to set the screws in a perfectly straight line, that makes a huge difference in how professional the final product looks. Set string lines or snap chalk lines
Your question interested me.
Should I remove shingles before putting on a metal roof ?
??
Maybe I'll run off to the cottage like this.