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I have read the archives, read the FHB article last year, but still have a few questions:
1. When blowing cells in a closed wall, is it better to have the entry point on the top, or bottom of the wall?
2. Does the hose of the unit have to be snaked up/down the wall to the farthest end, and then slowly retracted as the wall cavity is filled? If so, how is the hose inserted from the bottom of the wall, and snaked up to the top?
3. How much dust does the blowing create on the inside of the house, if it is blown from outside, or an attic?
Thanks,
Chris
Replies
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did you read this one..?
http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?50@@.ee921ba/28
or this ... garage floor...
http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?50@@.ee8dbeb/15
and this on DP cells..
http://webx.taunton.com/WebX?50@@.ee8dbeb/15
*Thanks for the links Mike.Yes, I did read them, but they don't address the questions I posed. You probably remember that I also recently posted the balloon frame dp question, which you also answered. (thank you) My main hang up is how to assure even and dense uniformity of pack when the wall cavity is close to 20' tall. I have a hard time seeing how I'm gonna snake some 3/4" pvc pipe down the wall 20' without hitting something, or breaking all the keys off of the plaster lath. I also read that some people blow with just one hole at the bottom of the wall, which also doesn't make much sense to me, as I am guessing it would be hard to get the pipe or hose up the wall cavity. Can anyone shed some light on these questions?
*So, are you asking about installation in 20' tall stud bays? Most of what you have been reading on this site is installation in 8' bays. The details are pretty important to specify when you pose your question or make your point.
*Yes Ted. Installation in 20' stud bays.Chris
*I have a similar question as Chris. The details of my house: two-story brick veneer (brick/airspace/tar paper/sheathing/uninsulated wall cavity/plaster), balloon framed. Dormers in the attic prevent top access to all walls, besides there is a top plate. House built in 1971 in the western suburbs of Chicano.I would like to install insulation from the second floor walls by drilling access holes near the floor and blowing down to fill the wall cavities on the first floor. I would then plug these holes and fill the second floor walls from the top (I am removing the top portion of the walls as part of replacing the ceiling).Is this plan feasible? The only blowers I have seen have 1-1/2" or 2" nozzles. Are smaller nozzles (and extension hoses) available for the home owner/Dryer? The first floor has 9' ceilings - will I be able to blow from the hole, or will I need to extend a hose down?Thanks, Eric
*Oops, I meant to say the house was built in 1917, not 1971.Otherwise that's my story and I'm sticking to it.--Eric
*Chris,Blow from the middle. Snake the hose either up to the top from there and then down to the bottom or vice-versa. It's a lot easier to go ten feet than twenty. If the outside is clapboards, it's easier to remove a midlin' row of claps and drill a 4" hole in the sheathing or remove a couple of rows and pull an entire sheathing board. Then make a little jig with a four-inch hole in it to screw over the opening while you blow. Tape the gaps at the edges of the jig with duct tape and it'll keep the mess to a minimum. This gives you lots of wiggle room with the hose and makes closing up a lot easier than patching a zillion 4" holes in the plaster. Be aware that the second-floor joist bays are open to the wall bays and lots of cells will go into them before they offer enough resistance for the cells to pack again. For this reason it's useful to pull the siding and sheathing right at the floor joist height. You can then opt to go ahead and blow the floor comlpletely full for sound control, or block the bays off with something so you don't have to waste so much material if you aren't intersested insulating between floors.I've done 30 feet in horizontal bays from one end, but only when the inside surface is smooth. plaster keys in a horizontal bay would indeed be a pain in the ass.Yes, you do need to get the hose to the end and back it out as you blow if you want the best pack. If you can get to within two feet or so of the end that ought to be good enough.IF there are no leaks to the inside, it's pretty dust-free. If there is a hole that you don't notice, like inside the closet that I filled up with cells a couple of months ago, it's a big mess. A few weeks ago I did a ceiling that was t&g boards and had a fair amount of blow-through--especially where the electrician had broken the tounges off some of the boards when he removed and replaced them to snake a wire. Nothing a home-owner vac couldn't handle though.As I've said before, this whole proceedure is about the most boring thing I've ever done, so be prepared for that if you are gonna do the whole house. A helper is essential if you don't want to go up and down the ladder four-hundred times.Best of luck,Steve
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I have read the archives, read the FHB article last year, but still have a few questions:
1. When blowing cells in a closed wall, is it better to have the entry point on the top, or bottom of the wall?
2. Does the hose of the unit have to be snaked up/down the wall to the farthest end, and then slowly retracted as the wall cavity is filled? If so, how is the hose inserted from the bottom of the wall, and snaked up to the top?
3. How much dust does the blowing create on the inside of the house, if it is blown from outside, or an attic?
Thanks,
Chris