Replies

1. 
   ted | Apr 12, 2009 09:05pm | #1

   A lot of times light coming in around the sides of the helmet causes glare for me and I can't see what is going on. I solve the problem by taping a dark cloth over the back side to keep any light from getting in. It usually solves the problem for me. BTW I use a #10 filter.

2. 
   McMark | Apr 12, 2009 09:13pm | #2

   Yea, what lens are you using?  Actually, often times MIG puts out more light than stick, this is because the electrode, arc, and puddle is covered with slag.  But a big DC stick machine running 5/32 7018 is going to put out more light than a little MIG.

   Are you actually running MIG, or are you running FCAW?  Anyway, lens are cheap.  Buy a #10, and/or #9.

3. 
   joeh | Apr 12, 2009 09:14pm | #3

   I have one and once you've used one there's no going back to the flipper type.

   But, if you can't see the arc at all you might want to try a lighter shade lens.

   There's a metal spring clip holding the lens in, should have the shade number on the edge. Try going lighter and see if it's better. Or if there are 2 of them crammed in there maybe.

   Joe H

    

4. 
   danski0224 | Apr 12, 2009 09:21pm | #4

   Yes, the auto darken helmets make a huge difference.

   There are cheap ones... and good ones.

   Many have a sensor that makes the lens go dark. Two sensors is low end, four is better. Shadows and flickering flourescent lights can fool the sensors, making the lens go dark or light when you don't want it to do that.

   Miller has a model that senses the EMF from welding to switch the lens on and off- big improvement. That's the one I have (Digital Elite).

   An adjustable lens is helpful, but adds to the price.

   Not seeing where you are going could be related to the reflection issue already mentioned.

   I have been told that the gold colored reflective fixed shades are much better than the plain ones. No harm in trying that.

5. 
   Malo | Apr 12, 2009 09:23pm | #5

   Auto dark rocks. I bought mine at HF when on the road and left my flipper at home..just a 49.99 special..works dandy w/ my Lil Lincoln Buzz Box.

   You'll never go back.

6. 
   Junkman001 | Apr 12, 2009 09:27pm | #6

   I stick weld frequently at work, with a regular helmet.  I bought a used Hobart Mig last summer of CL.  It came with an auto darkening helmet.  I still use a reg helmet stick welding, but would use nothing but an auto dark helmet with the Mig. 

   I you wear bifocals, get some single lense cheater glasses for welding.  It makes a big difference!

    

   Mike

   Insert initially amusing but ultimately annoying catch phrase here.
7. 
   junkhound | Apr 12, 2009 09:48pm | #7

   Have 2 of the autodark $39 HF specials, work well and are adjustable.

   Biggest drawback is they come without an inner shield and very thin outer polycarbonate shield - added 1/8" thick poly to both of mine, simply by using sheet metal screws.

8. 
   BoJangles | Apr 13, 2009 03:31am | #8

   I have a pretty expensive Miller auto darkening helmet with about 5 different shade settings.  I don't know how I ever got along without it.

   One thing you might try besides what the other guys said, is to hold your head closer to the weld.  You might be in a bad range for your vision.

   Light coming in the back of the helmet definitely screws things up.  Try not to weld with a light source behind you. 

   Make sure all of your glass in the lens is clean  It's pretty easy to get it clouded up in a hurry.

   Watch the position of your nozzle to make sure you aren't blocking some of the field of view.

1. 
   brownbagg | Apr 13, 2009 03:39am | #9

   I find the bigger window helmet help me over the small galss window

9. 
   BilljustBill | Apr 13, 2009 06:54am | #10

   Auto darking helmets will spoil you...  ;>)   Most of the new ones run on the light from the welder instead of batteries.  The higher costing ones have a selection knob to go between 3 different darkness levels.  It is much quicker to use one, especially when tack welding loose parts at odd angles or in tight quarters...no fuddling with the helmet...   I built a lumber storage room with removeable shelving, so I was welding with both 2x2" tubing as well as 1/4" thick 4x4" wall thicknesses. and 1/2" thick steel plate.  The only thing I had to worry with was changing amperages....

   View Image

    

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   When the arc is going, you can see as well as the standard helmets.  Most auto helments have that smaller lens, rather than the larger non-darkening helments.  I like the big lens, but I like the auto darkening better.

   Because the darkening lens unit is something that comes out in a sealed module, just remember to keep the helmet out of the sun and it's heat.  Plus, careful about keeping the module/lens dry and away from sudden rain showers or spilled liquids or you'll be looking for a new helmet....

   
   

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   Edited 4/12/2009 11:58 pm ET by BilljustBill

   
1. 
   gary329 | Apr 14, 2009 09:13pm | #11

   Bill,

   Wow, that's an impressive project.  I would be interested to hear what you do with all that drying.  What kind of wood and your source for it etc.. 

   Thanks ALL for getting me looking into helmets.  Looks like I've been running a shade 10 and can go down to a 9 for my low amp mig.  Am I going to notice a big difference in visibility, I assume I will...Should I try to find the gold tinted?

   Gary

10. 
    sungod | Apr 14, 2009 10:54pm | #12

    I also got the $39 Harbor Freight Auto-darkening Mask http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46092 It makes welding a lot easier.