I dropped my Porter Cable variable speed paint stripper off a ladder and when I went to use it I found the foam embedded disk carrier was bent. $60 dollars later for a new disc carrier, I decided rather than chuck the old one, maybe I could make a mini 24 grit carbide disc out of the carrier and the used disc.
I’m painting my house because the painter took a $500 deposit, proceeded to gouge the house with a rotary pressure washer tip and walked away. 3 weeks of perfect September painting weather gone waiting for him.
Anyway, the house is a 1924 something wanna be with the old style drip edge bottom trim combo. No sander is gonna fit right above the drip edge which is less than 4″ clapboard cedar, A Fein Multi master will fit, but the thing is not cut out for layers of old paint.
I found something round about 3 1/2” and used my jig saw to cut the bent disc carrier and 24 grit carbide disc. I mounted it on my Makita 5/8” arbor 4” angle grinder.
It worked quite well, like a mini Porter Cable paint stripper. Gotta keep it moving and flat or it dgs in rather quickly.
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I've always wanted one of these
http://www.paintshaver.com/paintshaver.html
I looked for something similar, a Metabo or something for rental. They discontinued renting it.I wouldn't mind having a paint stripper, but that price is steep $600!
I had one of those and frankly was underwhelmed...found it gouged much more than advertised and was generally not a very clean way to go in terms of damage.PaulB
That's a lot of lead to be spraying around! Don't do it!
There's an infrared system out there that works great. A small, solid-rod electric heater. Low enough temp so that you don't have to worry about lead fumes. It can be hand-held, but that's not the way to go.
There's a sort of sliding-door-type track you can screw to the soffit. A long rod hangs from the roller, and the heater slides up and down the rod. Position it, and it's hands-free.
I know that This Old House (mag) did a review of it once.
It's bad enough to poison yourself, but kids are especially susceptible. Never sand lead paint.
AitchKay
I have one of those Eco strip infared paint strippers. Its alright for flat doors and such, but still requires scraping and creates dust on a smaller scale
I have a 100+ year old house, removed the asbestos siding and used the paintshaver pro and the sander to strip the old paint. Started in the back to get the feel of the unit. Did a great job and very little dust. Yes, it takes a little time to get to the point that you end up with a smooth finish but when you get the hang of it it works very well.
Just started on my house today with the paint shaver, bought it used. Did you find you had to apply alot of pressure to keep the thing removing paint? I'm going to switch out the blades and see if it's easier, otherwise it'll be a slow process due to arm fatigue.
Only enough pressure to keep it even with the siding surface. I would say the the cutters are dull and/or you need to set the depth of the heads. It should be quicker than brushing a coat of paint on. I have found that I remove the paint in about 3' sections of each board, it usually takes three passes to do the face and the bottom edge of the nest board up. Make sure that you sand the siding prior applying the primer. There are a few places where I did not and after 3 years some of the paint is popping, and it is where I did not sand it after I used the paint shaver. Just curious, how much did you pay. I will be selling mine in about another year, I have the shaver and also the matching sander.
Don't forget, each cutter has three sides. I did over 600 sq ft before I rotated the cutters.
paid 250.00 off Old House journal, never switched the blades since I bought it, but did see the 6 sides thing. Google the journal for "swaps and sales", I'll send a link if you can't find it. Figured I'd use a palm sander, saw a thread about Porter Cable 330, good reviews.
You got a good deal. I have Old House bookmarked, cruise thru it mow and then. Good Luck.
Did you "wash" the wood after you sanded? I plan on using a deck cleaner with a garden sprayer followed by a rinse with fresh water from the hose. Then allow a day or so to dry and start priming/painting. I'll do the house in sections, so one part will be completely done newly painted, before I start another part.
All you are going to do with the water is raise the grain on the wood again and then you will need to sand it again. Unprotected wood and water do not go well together. I use a sander hooked to the shop vac, just like you hook the shop vac to the paint shaver, then I dry brush the siding prior to priming. Unless you have a moisture meter to check the wood I would not apply water at all.
dry brush, good idea! Although I like the look of raised grain painted. House is pretty rustic, see attached.
Nice house. Raised grain may be fine but I would use the moisture meter if you are going to wash it. Paint manufacture can give you the ideal moisture content range. Good luck. I noticed that you have what looks like board and batten.
Yes, B&B. Sherwin Williams has a new paint that works in high humidity areas. Also can be applied when rain is expected. Having said that, I'll do all that I can to apply during most desirable conditions.